What is a good sharpener?

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Nov 24, 2010
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So I have a few different sharpeners and none of them work as well as I'd like. I've heard good things about the DMT diamond sharpening stones, but i don't want to spend too much on a sharpener. What is your opinion on them? Are they worth the money?
 
I was thinking the same thing 30 min ago, no kidding. Do a quick search here and you'll get a lot of opinions on sharpeners. It seems that a lot of people like the DMT diafolds. They sell a kit with a guide tool for around $40 on amazon. It comes with a fine/extra fine stone (they're double sided), so you'll also probably want to pick up a stone that has a coarse grit on it and that will be about $30. Or you can pick up just a coarse/fine stone and freehand it. I suspect the coarse/fine stone (325/600 grit) will get the average joe (like me) a decent level of sharpness. If you are trying to keep your knife purchase around $50 the last option might be the way to go for the budget. There are probably some cheaper options in the DMT line as well. I saw a set of credit card size diamond sharpeners of various grits for about $25 when I was looking around the interweb.
 
You can either use stones or you can't. If you can, use stones. If you can't (like me) or are too lazy (also, like me), then these work great:

1. Spyderco's ProFile set (two oval-ish ceramic stones, with both flat and round surfaces). I use these for quick sharpening of v-ground edges. Any ceramic stick or unglazed ceramic surface will work as well, but I like the shape of the ProFiles.

2. A good leather strop. One made for straight razors is nice but the custom ones at dlttrading.com are nice too.

3. A good sandpaper system. I like the field sharpening kit sold by knivesshipfree.com. It comes with a small leather strop, two kinds of leather compound, and several grits of sandpaper for everything from sharpening to fine-tuning (all in an Otter box, which is also nice).

EDIT: When I say "stones" I mean STONES, as in actual stone. Japanese waterstones are nice but again I'm lazy and don't practice as much as I should.
 
TheUSMC, Thank you for serving- Sir . DNK gave some good advise, the DMT coarse/fine stone with a aligner . It depends on what steel your wanting to sharpen . For Stainless, yes, the above . For non-stainless Norton's India combination stone coarse/fine 2X8" is hard to beat at 20$ American delivered . Plus a leather strop you can make . Then follow information given here and you'll start seeing some decent edges soon . DM
 
So I have a few different sharpeners and none of them work as well as I'd like. I've heard good things about the DMT diamond sharpening stones, but i don't want to spend too much on a sharpener. What is your opinion on them? Are they worth the money?

G'day there.:)
For just sharpening try the little 'Lap-Eze' tools. I use the medium(red) fine (Blue) and I sharpen under a water trickle using some of the hand cleaner stuff that comes in pump bottle you have on the kitchen sink bathroom or whatever. All round an economical way to sharpen.
The hand cleaner (less is more) has amazing surfactants that lifts off the grit as you go,
warm regards from west Australia.
 
Only after trying benchstones and Spyderco Sharpmaker was I given an Edge Pro Apex sharpening system and I have not looked back.

If you're good at hand sharpening and can get the angle right, the DMT and other products like it will serve well, but for consistent edges and a pretty foolproof system the Edge Pro's hard to beat.
 
A "good" sharpener will be different from person to person. But I sincerely doubt you'll find "good" stones unless you've completely mastered freehanding. However each system have their own learning curves, with some being steeper than others.

For freehand, I think it's a safe bet that DMT diasharp stones sit near the top(if not directly at the top). Compared to japanese waterstones, they're low maintenance(water is not "required", no need to flatten, no need to soak), and they cut faster and work exceptionally well on modern wear resistant steels.

For a guided system, Edge Pro and Wicked Edge are duking it out for supremacy. On a personal note, I haven't touched my Edge Pro in over a year because of the time it takes to get a single knife from dull to push cutting paper sharpness, as well as the numerous and tedious tasks required to make sure the angles are accurate(trust me, marking the edge with a sharpie and changing the tape on the table between every stone gets pretty tedious). Also, I feel the Wicked Edge has more potential as I would expect diamond stones to cut faster and hasten the process, as well as not having the need to flatten the stones. I also always felt that a system like the Edge Pro would be more effective with a clamp system to hold the blade in place.

For power tools, there's the Paper Wheels which is like grinding wheels on steroids. The abrasives are better cooled than typical grinding wheels, making it safer to use on knives without the risk of ruining the heat treat(still need to exercise some care though). But as with power tools, the slightest mistake will be amplified about a hundred times. Since it's essentially a form of freehand, my edges sometimes look like someone tried to grind 3 different angles on them. The flipside is that what would have taken me 30 minutes to go from dull to push cutting paper would only take about 5 minutes with the Paper Wheels. At $50 for the wheels, and another $50 for the bench grinder, a total cost of $100 makes this relatively cheap($200 for an Edge Pro, $200 for a Wicked Edge, $200 for a full set of DMT benchstones without the XXC and EEF stones)

I believe belt sanders are the old favorite, particularly with factory grinds IIRC. They're relatively low cost in terms of the machine itself as well as replacement belts. That said, I believe the Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener deserves particular mention for being essentially a portable belt sander with limited angle guides(20 and 25 degrees per side). There can be nothing more simple than sticking your knife in the guide and sliding it through, combining a consistent angle with fast sharpening. For those willing to do a little legwork, you can have more belt options than what comes with the sharpener. The Micro-Mesh MX belts in particular are specifically for metal work. It's also easy to get convex edges with the system, which I believe is historically proven to be a very durable edge if japanese katanas are any example. At $69.95 and $0.52 per Micro-Mesh MX belt I find this system to be a very good bang for your buck, as well as your time. I have recently put an order in for one, but the high demand drained the supply and I'll likely have to wait another 2 weeks before I can use it myself.

In the end, what it all boils down to is:
-How much are you willing to spend?
-How much time are you willing to take when sharpening?
-How much practice are you willing to invest?
 
Noctis3880,

That was a truly excellent post. You presented the information accurately, and with sufficient, but not excessive detail. :thumbup:
 
Noctis3880,

That was a truly excellent post. You presented the information accurately, and with sufficient, but not excessive detail. :thumbup:
Thanks. I speak mostly from having run around chasing the mythical "perfect" sharpening system which would fulfill my every needs. Thus far, every system has had one drawback or another.

I'm getting close though. All I need to do is to find a system with the shortest possible learning curve, can sharpen really quickly, and can also do quick touchups without removing excessive amounts of metal. And while there's still another week or so before it arrives, I feel the Work Sharp knife sharpener will fit the bill nicely. Assuming the angle guides are good at keeping an exact angle every time, it should really be like a power tool version of a guided system. And given that no amount of polishing on the slotted paper wheel will completely eliminate the factory grind lines on a new knife, I also think it's safe to assume that the same applies to the Work Sharp when using the finest grit belt.

The sharpmaker is a nice design, but it doesn't cure me of my shaky hands, and I doubt even the diamond rods are coarse enough to grind a new bevel on an obtuse factory edge.

The wicked edge sounds almost perfect, but total costs would be enough to buy an XM-18 if you get all the stones, strops, pastes, and a base(assuming it doesn't come with one).
 
Noctis3880
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Thanks. I speak mostly from having run around chasing the mythical "perfect" sharpening system which would fulfill my every needs. Thus far, every system has had one drawback or another.

I'm getting close though. All I need to do is to find a system with the shortest possible learning curve, can sharpen really quickly, and can also do quick touchups without removing excessive amounts of metal. And while there's still another week or so before it arrives, I feel the Work Sharp knife sharpener will fit the bill nicely. Assuming the angle guides are good at keeping an exact angle every time, it should really be like a power tool version of a guided system. And given that no amount of polishing on the slotted paper wheel will completely eliminate the factory grind lines on a new knife, I also think it's safe to assume that the same applies to the Work Sharp when using the finest grit belt.

The sharpmaker is a nice design, but it doesn't cure me of my shaky hands, and I doubt even the diamond rods are coarse enough to grind a new bevel on an obtuse factory edge.

The wicked edge sounds almost perfect, but total costs would be enough to buy an XM-18 if you get all the stones, strops, pastes, and a base(assuming it doesn't come with one).

For me the perfect sharpener has the following attributes:
-it holds the knife absolutely rigidly every time always!
-it will have an angle control so you can set the angle of the grind accurately each and every time without fail.
-the sharpener must have a system for placing the knife in the same exact position each and every time you have to touch up the edge or resharpen.
- it must have a system of progressive hones and strops with finer and finer grits and those hones should not have to be flattened every few times because of wear. The strops should be of leather and fit the rig rather than being separate.
- it must not remove excessive amounts of metal and must not scratch the blade above the edge.
-it should not be messy with fluids and slurries.
-the whole rig should be made of the finest quality materials.
-the ultimate sharpener must have all the above, but it also needs a company that is always trying to improve and innovate.

Well Noctis 3880, you hit the nail on the head as far as I am concerned...the Wicked Edge Precision Sharpener is nigh on perfect as it fulfills all the above criteria. I have been supremely happy with my WEPS Generation II. After struggling for so many years to get razor sharp edges consistently, I am now a happy man...and it only took me some 60 years to find it. :D Look no further. No I don't work for the Wicked Edge and Clay Alison is not a member of my family! I just a happy old guy who finally found a sharpening system that doesn't suck. Pricey, perhaps but worth every penny. False economy is buying cheap stuff over and over again. I am just a happy customer and I don't mind saying so.

Cheers
Leo:thumbup:
 
Hmm, I guess you could call the Wicked Edge the perfect sharpener. However, the massive price tag quite literally stops me from being able to buy it, especially having purchased a Sebenza, a Lionsteel SR-1, and an XM-18.

I found the Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener to be a pretty good system thus far. Starting off it was pretty unforgiving as I rounded off a few tips(sadly one of which included my ZT 0551). Though by my 4th sharpening that stopped, however my attempt to regrind a new tip didn't go exactly as planned.

Still, the edges I put on afterwards were pretty close to perfect. There were no uneven spots that look like someone tried to grind 3 different angles like what a newbie would get with the Paper Wheels. Also, it seems there isn't as much of a demand to hold an absolutely perfect angle like with the Edge Pro(different stone thicknesses). Even if you happen to be off by 3 degrees, the belt will still sharpen the very edge due to the slack.

But again, no system comes without kinks. With the Work Sharp, aftermarket belts are desirable for more flexibility, perfect mirror polished edges, and even greater sharpness. That almost doubles the cost depending on the number of grits and extra belts(I decided to order 10 of each to be safe). I've also had one of my 1200MX belts break apart on me where an adhesive tape was used to join the two ends. I'm not entirely sure if it was the heat(thing gets pretty damn HOT fast) or if I was using too much pressure, or a combination of both. Also, it seems to like making wire edges and leaves them hanging there. Not TOO big a deal given I have a nice felt pad to remove it.

As far as final sharpness goes, I managed to pop hair with my thick Lionsteel SR-1:D. I'd like to see if it can go further when I get my 12000AO Micro-Mesh belt. I might even consider loading a worn belt with 0.5 micron CrO paste.
 
Hi again!
I don't know much of anything about the rest of the stuff you have...I was just responding to your comment re the WEPS. I know it is expensive, but if I add up all the various sharpening things I have bought over the years, they altogether surpass the money I have paid for the WEPS, never mind the less than satisfactory edges I cranked out. This is like buying a tripod for photography...people ask me on my photography forum, Leo what is a good cheap tripod? My answer is, there is no such thing! Cheap tripod is a contradiction in terms...it has to be made of the best materials and made from the best machined design you can afford...and maybe it will hold your camera steady. My advice is always the same...buy the best one you can afford and you will only have to buy one once. A great sharpener is the same in my estimation. I get repeated great edges with no sweat, guess-work or any doubts each and every time. I don't have to clean up wet slurry after I am done nor do I ever have go through the trauma of flattening expensive Japanese stones. My work to get a scintillating edge takes about 10 minutes tops and to refresh an edge a few strokes of the fine stones and a few strokes of the strops. I can get a mirror finish with a little bit of extra effort. And if you must have the wonderful Japanese stones, they will be available soon for the WEPS on the same hones that fit the present rig. I can and do even put 3-M PSA tapes on some blank hones from the Wicked Edge for 28 bucks and I can get a smooth, mirror finish on my edges that slash your eyes just looking at them.:D I am sorry! Sharpeners like many others exaggerate their edges eh!!

Best regards mate :thumbup:
Leo
 
Just wondering as I received a Lansky system as a gift, didnt get the diamond stones as I had hoped but oh well. now for the question, Ive been reading a few sharpening threads on here and haven't seen anything on them. Should I upgrade right away? Should I move on to another system? Also I seem to have a problem w keeping other stones clean, oil works but they need a deeper cleaning. Any suggestions will be a great help.
 
I received my Wicked Edge with bamboo base over the xmas holiday and I loooooove it! Its my first and last sharpener I think ill ever need. Went from zero to hero. I definitely recommend it if you got the cash. Now I just need to invest in the 800 - 1200 grit stones or maybe I can get away with some tape on sand paper? Thanks again Noctis3880 for your tid bits of info.
 
I can recommend the DMT aligner if you are looking for a cheaper alternative to guided systems. And keep in mind that while powered setups like paper wheels and belt sanders can get you amazing results very quickly, they can also ruin a knife very quickly if you aren't careful or experienced.

With any system there will be a learning curve, and the key with every system is to take your time and have patience. If you aren't getting good results, set it down and walk away, take a break and come back later. When you start getting frustrated, it's easy to start bearing down on the stone, ruining dmt's and messing up your edges.
 
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