What is a good steel for draw knives?

D

Doc Hollywood

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Jan 24, 2003
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I am planning to make up some draw knives, and need some idea of what steel to order. It has gotta hold an edge through hard and soft wood, and be reasonably easy to take care of. I am thinking D2.....

Any suggestions?

Doc
 
I think a draw knife would be an excellent place to use D2. Impact resistance is not a factor, so even the people who normally object to D2s brittle nature shouldn't worry. M2 might be another good choice, although it costs 3X whar D2 does. S90V should also be in the running.
 
I forged my father a couple of differant ones from ball bearing races and they worked out well.

For stock removal I'd stick with carbon steels, they will take a finner edge easier than D2 and other stainless or high alloy steels. Some wood workers are real particular about how fine an edge there tools have.

Just my .02$, your milage may vary.
 
I am planning on forging the blades for these, but I don't want the end users to suffer like mad trying to sharpen them.

Were you referring to 52100 or ?

Doc
 
I had not considered O-1, but I suppose I should have. 52100 would be good as well. Either way I won't wear out the end user with sharpening the thing....lol.

Thanks fellas!

Doc
 
Consider A-2 if you're going to grind it. It'll take a keener edge than D-2 and be easier to sharpen. Remember that D-2 is used in power planers because of its long-wearing characteristics, not the sharpness of the edge. Serious hand plane manufacturers use A-2 for their plane irons, and when you see an expert like John Alexander or Brian Boggs go to work with a drawknife, it's clear that those suckers are wickedly sharp.
 
Barr tools forges/makes a really nice drawknife, both as far as blade shape and the steel is considered. They use O1.
 
I called the races bearing races because while I'm sure they were 52100 from the way they forged and worked and performed, it's still mystery steel.

O-1 is anouther good steel that has been used for high end wood tools, eighther or would be great with the right heat treat.
 
F. Allin Kahrl said:
Consider A-2 if you're going to grind it. It'll take a keener edge than D-2 and be easier to sharpen. Remember that D-2 is used in power planers because of its long-wearing characteristics, not the sharpness of the edge. Serious hand plane manufacturers use A-2 for their plane irons, and when you see an expert like John Alexander or Brian Boggs go to work with a drawknife, it's clear that those suckers are wickedly sharp.
Click to expand...

As an experiment, I have shaved my face with sheep's foot blades I made from A2, D2 and S30V. While the S30V and the A2 did feel a little smoother, The D2 did a perfectly good job. You can't do this with a blade that won't take a fine edge. All of these were similar grinds, flat/convex hybrids finished with an extra fine diamond hone (diasharp) followed by a surgical black Arkansas stone, then a translucent Arkansas stone and a leather hone. The translucent Arkansas stone in aroung 5000 grit, I balieve.

I would suggest that if anyone can't get a fine edge on D2, they should examine their equipment, technique and/or effort. The D2 will hold its edge longer than the A2 and a lot longer than O1. Sometimes you got to try just a little bit harder...
 
i use 0-F alot for my archery draw shaves, its works pretty good. ive also have the pleasure of using a erikson mora draw knife, which i believe is 0-1. 0-1 is good but ive have a few problems with chiping. either over temper the 0-1 a bit to prevent this chipping, or use 1095 or something similar. chipping is worse than a dull blade, because a dull blade can be resharpened. a chip has to be ground out which wears away the bevels faster and the tool doesnt last as long. chiped blades are very frustrating when your trying to worry more about you blade chipping that the work piece. thats how alot of my bows get screwed up, im focusing on the blade and not the stave.
 
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