**What is the best wax to use on a knife - ren wax, flitz, a car wax?

nonbox

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I use marine tuff cloth religiously but I heard beadblast still stains or tiny rust spots can form. I want try a wax. I am planning to protect my firearms with it also.

What is the best wax to use on a knife/gun - ren wax, flitz, a car wax?

Ren Wax is sold at http://www.restorationproduct.com/

65ml (2.25 fl. oz.): $12.00
200ml (7fl. oz.): $20.00 per can
2.5 liter (s&h $8.00): $140.00 per can

http://www.flitz.com/Gunandriflewax.htm

100 ml (3.4 oz) $7.99


Any one try non abrasive car carnuba wax? What brand is good?
 
I have use flitz. It's slightly abrasive and it had rubbed quite a bit of the beadblasting on my CRKT KFF off. It's shinier than the new ones.
It works quite well on knives, but because it's abrasive I don't know whether you want to use it on guns.
 
Renaissance Wax!!!!!!


The Small Jar will last forever ;) It's not abrasive, it brings out highlights in damascus and handle materials. It also keeps so called stainless knife steels from discoloring.


Neil
 
I am looking for a wax that it easy to apply and take off with out leaving a lot of residue. Does Ren Wax or Flitz leave residue in the nooks? Do you have to use a brush to get it out?
 
Rennaissance wax works best for me.
It's very easy to apply and not t9ime consuming. Also, it does not leave any residue at all.

Even museums use Ren wax =)
 
I am a knifemaker as well as a collector...never and abrasive wax.
Renaissance Wax on the ones I make and on the ones I collect...only!

A good friend collects Model 21 Shotguns and rifles in the same quality category.......Renaissance Wax only...on metal....the wood is oil finished and gets a gentle rubbing occasionally.

The most serious collector of high dollar folders I have met...knives that are in the $5k to $15k each level....Renaissance Wax after every handling of each knife.....

Good luck!
 
I have use flitz. It's slightly abrasive and it had rubbed quite a bit of the beadblasting on my CRKT KFF off. It's shinier than the new ones.

I think you're thinking of Flitz polish. Their wax is a different product.

I've never used Flitz was. I like their polish. But, for long-term protection I use and recommend Ren Wax. Every major museum in the world uses Ren Wax. If it's good enough for the White House, Buckingham Palace, and the Smithsonian, I guess it's good enough for my stuff too.

A lot of folks make the mistake of thinking that wax is only for collectibles. I wax any knife that I'm not going to look at for a few months. For example, I have a 2nd-rate fixed blade, it's a Kershaw, that I keep in my trunk for emergencies. It's got a bead-blasted finish. I look at this knife about once a year when I make my regular inspection. So, to protect it, I've Ren waxed it.

A lot of people are concerned about using a waxed knife for food. Well, the major ingredient in Ren Wax, the component that's left behind on the knife when the carrier evaporates, is high-quality carnuba (sp) wax. A lot of foods have carnuba wax on them. Most any candy that has a hard shell and a soft inside is coated with carnuba wax. The wax coating makes the outside shiny and seals the candy so that the soft center doesn't dry out. Carnuba wax has no real food value, but in small quantities it's quite harmless to eat.

I caution against applying Ren Wax to materials with a rough surface (some woods etc.) since it is difficult to get it properly buffed in the small nooks and cranies. The other place to be careful with it is where there's a very thin crack or space. For example, where in insert meets a bolster. If the knife isn't properly made, there'll be a thin crack there and, again, it's hard to buff all the excess wax out. It will slightly darken some leathers and unsealed woods. But, otherwise, it's good on just about everything.

A little bit goes a long way. The 65ml jar is easily enough for a hundred knives. One tip: don't wax one knife at a sitting if you can avoid it. It takes a lot of wax just to get the cloth you use "wet." So, if you start a cloth up, wax a few knives while you're at it. If you do this, about every forth or fifth knife will be free, i.e. you won't need to get any wax out of the jar.

This stuff is great for a lot of stuff other than knives. If you own anything that's silver, you know about tarnish. Ren Wax just stops it. So, if you have, for example, your great grandmother's silver candy dish that you display in your dining room hutch, you know that you have to polish it every three to six months even though you never use it. Polish it once, Ren Wax it, and you won't be polishing it again for years. And now you know why museums love this stuff.

If you own brass or copper, you also know about polishing. Again, Ren Wax it and you're done.
 
Originally posted by nonbox
I use marine tuff cloth religiously but I heard beadblast still stains or tiny rust spots can form.

The poor rust-resistance of bead-blasted blades even after using Tuf-Cloth (I haven´t tried the Marine version yet) is a problem I´ve been experiencing myself (with CRKT knives). Is this just due to the generally low rust-resistance this type of finish shows or does Tuf-Cloth due to it´s consistency or something like that not prevent it properly on knives with this finish?

Any comments?
 
Chuck, is there a store in the Portland area that sells Ren Wax?

Carl Greive used to, but they closed their "housewares" part of the store and are now focused entirely on very high-end jewlery.

I just pick up a jar at a knife show when I need it, usually to give to someone else since my jar still has plenty in it. A little bit goes a long way.
 
If you're referring to rust prevention, my suggestion is to try WD-40. I've always had great success with it.
 
I just got some flitz (malt liquor?) wax and put a couple of coats on my Strider GB, and HT. It did not seem in any way abrasive. I have only had it on my blades 2 days. The flitz info line told me that I would only need to at most re-apply the wax once a month. I will post my own expirances after about that time. Good luck, Reagan
 
Being an aviation mechanic I've had great success with a product called CorrosionX. Also, a marine product Woody's Wax, removes rust specs,cleans,polishes,protects, oh...it smells good too!
 
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