What is the point of a pull-through sharpener?

JDX

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Mar 2, 2014
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Back when in my only teens when I started carrying edc knives I used a pull through sharpener. The only steels I used on it were 420hc, Aus 8, and 8cr13mov. Basically the softer steels. It could never slice through paper cleanly after, but it would get it to be sharper than dull. But now in my twenties I've moved on to a Spyderco sharpmaker which actually gets it hair shaving sharp again. S30v, s35vn, CTS xhp etc. looking back, I wonder why they even make pull through sharpeners. They are terrible for your blade, each pull through is never the same angle as the previous, giving the blade and awful edge, and they really just don't work well. Are they aimed at people who don't know better?
Or has anyone actually had no problem with the pull through sharpeners.

Not trying to start an argument, just wondering how other feel about the pull through/ portable sharpeners
 
Speed and ease of use for the majority of people. Good sharpening skills and products take time and effort to learn, and cost a bit of money. Most folks buy a pull through, and it lives rattling around in their kitchen drawer with their knives for the next 40 - 50 years, giving them mediocre, but serviceable edges every few months.
 
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This is an aufull invevtion im a knife sharpener for about 5 years and a knifemaker for about a year . i recomend to trow it out its a blade distroyer .

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In theory pull through sharpeners "line up" the very edge of the blade, which "folds" during use (I'm not expert in this, its what I've learned through several years in this hobby).

In reality pull through sharpeners ruin your knives and are not a substitute for something like a Lansky, or free stones. I'll defer to the more senior people here to explain exactly why these things ruin blades.
 
The only pull through sharpener that I own is an electric three stage Chef's Choice. I don't recommend them as they take off a lot of steel typically and quickly if you aren't paying close attention. My wife uses it from time to time on some of our less expensive kitchen knives. I've had it for probably 10 years and it seldom gets used as I tend to do most of the knife sharpening in our house regardless of the value of the knife. Occasionally I will have trouble getting something suitably sharp, but not often.
 
The biggest problem is the surface quality of the carbide insert/cutters. If they are in good shape the outcome can be pretty good.

Also, the lack of clearance between the cutters means crud piles up in the pinchpoint, further complicating things.

Otherwise, they work just like draw-filing but the file only has one tooth. So any defects in that tooth combined with the cutter hitting the same approximate spot on the edge will lead to undercutting the apex, tearing the steel etc. Aside from that, a respectable beater edge can be made using a draw-filing method (and sometimes much better) and the same is true of these carbide sharpeners.


They can work well enough and IMHO for those uninterested in learning how to properly sharpen, they cause less harm than a grooved steel and in some cases a benchstone. Most are not manufactured well and one still has to have a bit of an idea what they're trying to do with the thing.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...micrographs)?highlight=dollar+carbide+scraper
 
Generally pull-throughs also have pretty thick preset angles to them, and there's no way for the user to adjust it.Over time they create undulations in the edge, as well.
 
The biggest problem is the surface quality of the carbide insert/cutters. If they are in good shape the outcome can be pretty good.

Also, the lack of clearance between the cutters means crud piles up in the pinchpoint, further complicating things.

Otherwise, they work just like draw-filing but the file only has one tooth. So any defects in that tooth combined with the cutter hitting the same approximate spot on the edge will lead to undercutting the apex, tearing the steel etc. Aside from that, a respectable beater edge can be made using a draw-filing method (and sometimes much better) and the same is true of these carbide sharpeners.


They can work well enough and IMHO for those uninterested in learning how to properly sharpen, they cause less harm than a grooved steel and in some cases a benchstone. Most are not manufactured well and one still has to have a bit of an idea what they're trying to do with the thing.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...micrographs)?highlight=dollar+carbide+scraper

Good insight.

Pull throughs are like stones.. shaped to a preset angle. If a smooth razor edge can be done by stone, it can he done by pull through. With due care.

Any method can make a good edge.. with time. I think pull throughs are mostly just abused and handled without some finesse. As said, if its properly maintained, smooth inserts, crud free, it most can be an effective portable sharpening tool.

Just take it easy there; might even be able to catch your own reflection. Pay attention to the edge. You are the crafter as the sharpener. Its your baby. Handle with care.
 
The main problem I've seen is people somewhere got the idea they should be used with maximum pressure. If everyone pushed hard on a stone or Sharpmaker as they do in these things, stones and Sharpmaker wouldn't work either.
 
In theory pull through sharpeners "line up" the very edge of the blade, which "folds" during use (I'm not expert in this, its what I've learned through several years in this hobby).

In reality pull through sharpeners ruin your knives and are not a substitute for something like a Lansky, or free stones. I'll defer to the more senior people here to explain exactly why these things ruin blades.

The irony there is, the pull-through's method for 'aligning' the edge via carbide scrapers will likely cause the edge to fold more easily. As mentioned previously, the 'undercutting' of the apex, by dragging the edge lengthwise through the scrapers, weakens the steel behind the edge, which will weaken it's ability to support the edge; hence, it rolls easily. Think of a piece of corrugated cardboard folded along a 'crease' running parallel to the corrugations; it makes the cardboard very weak folding it along that line. The effect is similar to the 'creased' lengthwise grooves left on a knife's edge, behind the apex, by a pull-through sharpener. And as mentioned, there's also a lot of potential for the edge to be literally ripped or torn by the 'pinching' effect of the carbide inserts, which does more damage and also leaves weakened steel in it's wake.


David
 
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Not to cloud the issue but Fred Rowe makes a respectable pull through. It has been passed around and reviewed on here.
Russ
 
Not to cloud the issue but Fred Rowe makes a respectable pull through. It has been passed around and reviewed on here.
Russ

He does a good job on it, addressed the issues that make most of them suck.

You can recondition the cutters, they come with a pre-set gap between the two for swarf/crud clearout, adjustable angle control, visual guide rod to keep the blade centered in the cutters, 100% USA made, and you can easily swap end for end to minimize any potential edge defects if the cutter does have a ding.
 
Try one of my ERU pull through sharpeners and it will change your perspective on how they "should" work.

When I was taking apart a lot of pull through's, to see why they didn't work, we found that much of the problem was how the abrading surfaces were aligned. I never found one where the two abrading surfaces matched. Second is they were all set at a generic angle; most of them right around 35 degrees. Thirdly, there is no way to slide the edge through the "V" while keeping the blade aligned.
I took these three issues and created an adjustable "V" sharpener that is fully adjustable, is fitted with an alignment pin and the carbides are Lapped on a diamond plate "after" they are mounted in the frame. The result is a perfectly aligned "V", where the abrading surfaces match. This sharpener has an inclusive angle range of 16 to 45 degrees adjustable in increments of 1 degree. There is a small space between the carbides so the swarf can drain away and not be carried on the carbide surfaces.

The new kit, which will go on line this Sat. contains the ERU, with a machined 30 degree aluminum wedge to calibrate the tool, the alignment pin, a full range of degree wedges, to be used with stone or diamond plate, and lastly a full size 2 X 8 inch two sided strop. One side is balsa wood, the other is leatheyou

If your going afield just put the ERU in your pocket and maintain the edge while in the field.

It has taken us 2 years of learning and growing to be able to make the following promise: If you have your own stones or diamond plate, you will be able to create the best "flat"
edges possible, bar none, using the ERU sharpening system.

It's easy, select the desired edge say 30 degrees inclusive, select the 15 degree wedge, use this to control the sharpening angle on the plate or stone, create the burr, set the ERU with a corresponding angle 30 degrees inclusive. Remove the wire edge with a few passes through the "V". This will remove the wire edge cleanly. Continue to develop the apex by adjusting the angle of the "V" by 2 degrees,[34 inclusive] make several passes at this angle, you can feel the edge passing through the "V" and can tell when its clean. Adjust the "V" again to 36 or 38 degrees and make a few final passes. This is really a stropping function. The two sided strop is included in the kit, just in case it might be needed, it usually is not needed.

In the time it takes to set up a controlled system, using this ERU package you can sharpen 4 knives. It takes me no more than 10 or 15 min. to sharpen any knife.
The same edge can be created each and every time, no guess work. The look of the finished edge is smooth, clean and looks professional.

The offer is, money back if this system does not do exactly what I just said. Fast, accurate, beautiful and scary sharp or a working type edge if thats what is desired.

The ERU site has been down for 3 weeks while we upgraded the package that comes with this sharpener.

JDX, to show you there is a pull through sharpening system that will do everything your controlled system does, but does it faster and cleaner and cheaper; send me a PM and I will send you one of our new kits to try out. The deal is, if I am telling the truth, you write a critique on this forum if I'm not being honest, you can slam me all you want. Just return the product to me via US postal service.

Check our website out on Sat. We will be back up and running. edgeru.com

Happy to answer any questions, Fred
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I haven't used the ERU at all. I've read multiple threads about it, and watched it's development and (later) testing as it was passed around to BF members here.

It seems to be very, very well executed. Which makes it a really unique item in the sharpening world. The ERU is a "pull through" sharpener. But it's pretty much the only "proper" pull through sharpener that was ever made as far as I can tell. Which is kind of amazing. Here we have a class of product (pull throughs) that are universally slammed by anyone who knows anything about sharpening. Because they ALL suck. All except for the ERU.

It's hard to think of a product in another industry that's normally considered to be completely terrible, that was redone by someone smart and dedicated and became a very high quality useful product.

Brian.
 
I haven't used the ERU at all. I've read multiple threads about it, and watched it's development and (later) testing as it was passed around to BF members here.

It seems to be very, very well executed. Which makes it a really unique item in the sharpening world. The ERU is a "pull through" sharpener. But it's pretty much the only "proper" pull through sharpener that was ever made as far as I can tell. Which is kind of amazing. Here we have a class of product (pull throughs) that are universally slammed by anyone who knows anything about sharpening. Because they ALL suck. All except for the ERU.

It's hard to think of a product in another industry that's normally considered to be completely terrible, that was redone by someone smart and dedicated and became a very high quality useful product.

Brian.

I really appreciate your comments.

It's true, I cannot think of a parallel. A good friend of mine, here on the forums, said to me; "if you were going to develop a knife sharpener, )))WHY((( develop a pull through sharpener. It made me smile. I went this route because, just because, they all sucked and have a terrible rep.
After all a sharpened "flat" edge can only be reproduced by a perfectly aligned "V" in the exact same shape and geometry. I believe I've done that with the ERU.

It has been a real learning experience for me. I figured the idea was sound, but I didn't really know the fine points in the beginning, like the alignment pin and using the degree wedges to create the "flat V" shape and then how to follow through the steps, removing the burr, then following with passes at slightly different angles to clean the apex.

Here is an excerpt from an e-mail I received from a customer a few days ago. I think he sums it up.


Aug 20 (3 days ago)


Hi, Fred. I wanted to let you know that the ERU came in on Thursday. I have been ultra busy though and so have not had the opportunity to get into it too much until today. My initial impression is that I am going to love it. It seems very well built and, combined with the angle wedges, I think I am beginning a new chapter in my life insofar as sharpening skills go. I have a Diasharp diamond stone as well as several recently acquired Shapton stones to use with the angle wedges. And though the wedges and ERU are easy to set up and use, I anticipate that I will become increasingly proficient in their use over time.

Thanks for getting me the first electric blue ERU as well. As the first blue one, I will think of it as historically important in the years to come if you become famous. Maybe I should have asked you to sign it for me as well, LOL!!! :-)

Anyway, in all seriousness, I looked at several different sharpening options and spoke with a few prior customers of yours before settling on this. Nobody had anything but praise for this and I was only ever able to find one for sale on the open market from a customer who was selling theirs for who knows why. I am a guy who likes to get it right the first time, or at least very early in the game. I have no doubt I made the right choice in picking the ERU up from you.

Thanks for everything. As I get more experience with the wedges and the ERU, I may do a review of it on Bladeforums. I know that some folks have already reviewed it, but it never hurts to remind folks who might be in the market.

Best wishes,
 
I thought that most all pull throughs sucked too until I bought the ERU. Fred nailed it.
 
For carbide scraper sharpeners in general, the ones that have a single block on the end of a handle work well, as does the Carbee-Sharp. But like all scrapers, they do need to be used correctly to get the best results out of them. As far as drag-throughs go, the ERU is the only one I've seen that looks like it gets the concept right. I've not used one, but it definitely seems to fix everything wrong with off-the-shelf ones on the market.
 
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