What is the standard deburring method when using multiple grits and stones?

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LivingLikeLarry

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Once a burr is formed on both sides of the blade on your coarsest stone of choice how do you proceed if you want to move up a girt, say starting at 400 and now to 1000. Do most people deburr before going to the 1000 grit (and so on) or at the very end?
 
erh ... it's a good question. it's moot though , because once you have a scary sharp edge, you don't let it get very dull in future. and then you don't need a 400grit stone at the start of the session. perfect deburring is a problem at later stages, e.g ductile steels on higher grit stones, where even 1 pass on a Spyderco UF creates a socalled microburr.

sharpening artists like Michael Christy on youtube do NOT deburr between stages. you could start a poll. in a poll, I'd choose "no i doht deburr between stages", because the burr from lower grits is not big of a concern. it falls off automatically thru material weakening the more time you spend, moving up the grits.
 
I do deburring strokes on each stone before moving up. I do deburring strokes on a strop at the conclusion.

But more often than not I'd be stopping after the 400 anyway. :)
 
Finer stones leave a smaller bur. You can go that route. And when it all comes together you can debur with a pasted strop after a course hone. A 140 grit edge deburred cuts arm hair nicely for perspective.
 
David Martin said:
In your case a 400 grit. I remove the burr on that stone then work it on a 600 grit and do the same manner. Then a 800 grit stone and then on to your 1K grit stone. Then your done. DM
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By in the same manner do you mean deburring again?

So if you are gong to do multiple stones you really don't need to deburr again just make sure you strop it good at the end but either way works?
 
I double the angle for a few light passes and move on to the next stone. Occasionally on a very coarse stone 120 grit, I might wait to deburr till I finish the next grit up - 400 or so. Usually I deburr per stone.

I don't fret a few burr remnants, but I want it 80-90% clean if I'm going to use burr formation as a gauge of edge grind completeness at a given grit, or I might just be flopping the burr, and by definition NOT completely grinding all the way from shoulder to apex.
 
LivingLikeLarry said:
Once a burr is formed on both sides of the blade on your coarsest stone of choice how do you proceed if you want to move up a girt, say starting at 400 and now to 1000. Do most people deburr before going to the 1000 grit (and so on) or at the very end?
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First use an Edge Pro
Next stop in the middle of sharpening that half hard, half hearted attempt at a budget stainless steel "knife" and save it for only digging around in the garden or better yet throw it in the trash.
Next, next step get a knife with decent tool steel that is well hardened.
Sharpen it how ever you like with multiple stones. By the time you get to the last fine stone the bur will be gone and you won't be asking these sorts of questions.
 
Wowbagger said:
First use an Edge Pro
Next stop in the middle of sharpening that half hard, half hearted attempt at a budget stainless steel "knife" and save it for only digging around in the garden or better yet throw it in the trash.
Next, next step get a knife with decent tool steel that is well hardened.
Sharpen it how ever you like with multiple stones. By the time you get to the last fine stone the bur will be gone and you won't be asking these sorts of questions.
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I get what you are saying for sure but at the same time I see other people do it and say "I never had a hard time getting it (d2) sharp/it's easy" so I want to be able to as well just for the sake of learning.

David Martin said:
While working the blade up in grits it will normally get a small burr. So, remove each one and move on. DM
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Do you have any preferred deburring methods or will any of the double angle,cork/wood,even passes etc. work in my case? Just worried something like stropping through wood will have negative effects after finer stones.
 
Larry, try not to work up a burr as you progress. It will likely happen, just work it off with edge leading, light strokes until you can no longer feel it. Then move to the next stone. Stropping on wood to straighten out a burr should have no negative effect. I use this method as a quick
fix when I feel a burr on the blade. It will fix it but the burr will return and eventually sheer off with use or stropping. Good luck, DM
 
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