What is your favorite traditional fixed blade pattern?

flatblackcapo

flatblackcapo

Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
9,286
I have been planning to make a traditional fixed blade but I am having trouble deciding what pattern. Can you kind folks help me by giving suggestions and posting pics. I typically lean towards knives that are 7-9" OAL 3-4" blades and wharncliffe,sheepsfoot,lamb foot blades are a favorites of mine. I am also wondering how you feel about Mycarta as a handle material on traditional knives. Thank you for any time and input you may contribute.
 
Top two are Classic Drop Point Hunters by Bark River. They are a copy of a Bob Loveless design. The bottom clip point is a Bark River Gunny. The Gunny has recently become the #2 seller in the Bark River line. Only the Bravo 1 out sells it. All of these blades are A2 tool steel with convex edges. The blades are all around 3.5 " long. The handle are desert ironwood burl. DIB is a very dense and strong wood with it's own natural oils in it. There isn't any need to stabilize desert ironwood.



I personally like the warmth that a nice grained wood handle offers any knife.

Of the game hunters I own, the drop point is my choice. Here's a few more with the Bob Loveless drop point hunters:



None of these blades exceed 4".

Just my random thoughts, Tom
 
The venerable Puuko by a very large margin is my favorite traditional fixed blade. Even as a kid I never cared much for North American traditional fixed blades for the most part, but love traditional folders- go figure. The Puuko offers a blade as close to the handle as possible, no guard to get in the way, ergonomic grip in virtually any hand position, and usually thin blades meant for slicing/push cutting. They are in your preferred range, and offer much variation in design.

I finished my first Puuko this year for a good friends wedding cake knife- copper/bronze/brass wash Damascus and musk ox that her father supplied as they are from the Canadian Arctic.
0CC450E3-599C-4D21-AF9F-76096F06CFDF-242-000000214805DB6C.jpg




Here are a couple of my puukos for reference.
7227F525-2A7A-413A-933A-64DBE1B9C865-8226-00000AA1AE27E210.jpg


The most important thing to remember is to have fun with whatever you decide to try. It doesn't have to be MasterSmith quality, just a good effort with honest work put into it! Good luck!

ETA: I don't have a problem with micarta on a traditional design, but if you are thinking of selling the knife others may not find it as appealing. The bottom knife on the left side of the Puuko picture was my first micarta handle. It's a homemade knife I bought at a gun show (I was hungover/grumpy that day so I did not find out if the seller was the maker, something I still regret as I like to have any backstory I can). It has served me well in the past, even getting lost and re-found in the arctic tundra.

That said, I don't really see a need for micarta on a knife such as this. The natural traditional handles (brass/wood/horn/antler) are resilient enough for the tasks that such a short bladed knife should be expected to. A fall in the woods shouldn't render any of these materials useless, and any knife made to be used will incur a few dings, as most of mine have. And if it won't be used then material choice shouldn't be as worrisome anyways. (Just my opinion on the matter)
 
Last edited:
flatblackcapo said:
I have been planning to make a traditional fixed blade but I am having trouble deciding what pattern. Can you kind folks help me by giving suggestions and posting pics. I typically lean towards knives that are 7-9" OAL 3-4" blades and wharncliffe,sheepsfoot,lamb foot blades are a favorites of mine. I am also wondering how you feel about Mycarta as a handle material on traditional knives. Thank you for any time and input you may contribute.
Click to expand...

What do you plan to use it for? Or is it just a general, all-arounder? Will you hunt/dress game with it? These things will help narrow down your choices.

As far as micarta goes, I have a number of fixed blades with micarta handles. I don't think it looks out of place on most traditional designs, and it's very durable.
 
Last edited:
Double Ott said:
Top two are Classic Drop Point Hunters by Bark River. They are a copy of a Bob Loveless design. The bottom clip point is a Bark River Gunny. The Gunny has recently become the #2 seller in the Bark River line. Only the Bravo 1 out sells it. All of these blades are A2 tool steel with convex edges. The blades are all around 3.5 " long. The handle are desert ironwood burl. DIB is a very dense and strong wood with it's own natural oils in it. There isn't any need to stabilize desert ironwood.



I personally like the warmth that a nice grained wood handle offers any knife.

Of the game hunters I own, the drop point is my choice. Here's a few more with the Bob Loveless drop point hunters:



None of these blades exceed 4".

Just my random thoughts, Tom
Click to expand...

I absolutely agree with Tom. You just can't beat desert ironwood burl, though I'm sure he's got quite a few more DIB handles than I do :D.


The Loveless drop point is by far my favorite style. Here are a few of mine:


Click for the big picture


As for handle material: For me, it depends on where I'll be. For an EDC, wood is beautiful and what I'd use. Out in the field, however, I tend to stick with either G10 or Micarta. The difference in performance between the two is so marginal that it really doesn't matter which one you use (both will outlast you under normal use). Go with the one that looks best to you.

I have been experimenting with sheep horn in the field lately and so far I LOVE it. Sheep horn is not as cooperative as G10 or micarta but it is extremely durable... it is built for impact after all...
 
Last edited:
When I first read the title I didn't think I would be able to answer your question. I have four fixed blades that I am incredibly fond of and I don't think I could choose a favorite. But then you specified a 7-9" OAL with a 3-4" blade. That makes the choice much easier.

Give me a puukko.

dsc1788o.jpg


- Christian
 
Top is a GEC H23, 8 5/8" OAL with 3 7/8" cutting length. Bottom is a H73, 7 1/4" OAL with 3" cutting length.
 
I tend more towards the Loveless design of drop point as well.

However, I like a little thinner blade with more length for EDC. I find it does as well in the kitchen as it does in the woods.
IMG_5350_zpse904f5a8.jpg
 
While the Kephart was a 5" blade, most of the reproductions I've seen by custom and factory makers have been 4" blades. This is really my favorite knife. I've got two from Scott Gossman (a third was given as a gift to a friend), and the 4" blade version is a great knife. I even asked Scott to make a smaller version with a wider blade, and it does a great job as an EDC fixed blade. This is not my pic, but a recent Google search. My regular Kepharts are A2 and cocobolo, the little one is CPM154 and green canvas micarta.

bef246f1d87e4be1a630b90ebd748d38.jpg

With the right skill set, something I am trying to acquire, I whole heartedly believe that a Kephart, a SAK, an axe and a .22 bolt action, you would do pretty well in the bush.

The original ad
knife.jpg
 
Last edited:
I like drop points. Used to do this one with 4" and 5" blades (6" for the greedy!) :)

 
Wow! Thank you all for all your fine suggestions and great pics!

What do you plan to use it for? Or is it just a general, all-arounder? Will you hunt/dress game with it? These things will help narrow down your choices.
Click to expand...
Smithhammer, the knife is not for me,it will be a gift and I am not really sure what the recipient will use it for. As long as they use it I will be happy. The reason I ask about mycarta is that is what I have and I am a lot more familiar with working with it and G10 that wood or bone.
I would also like to add I prefer thin bladed slicers and full tang construction. I have never made a stick tang knife and I would like to make one some day but I am not sure I want to try something completely new to me for this project.
I thank you all for your comments and I will come back and address any questions a bit latter when I have a little more time.
Please, if you have any other suggestions or pics, especially of off beat/ unusual knives that some what fit the perimeters I am working with (these perimeters are not set in stone) post them if you like.
oh yeah. Jack, can you tell me a little about the drop point you posted?It very much caught my eye.
 
flatblackcapo said:
Smithhammer, the knife is not for me,it will be a gift and I am not really sure what the recipient will use it for. As long as they use it I will be happy.
Click to expand...

Cool. Then yeah, I would agree with many of the suggestions so far re: a drop point. It's a pretty versatile blade. Here is a Blind Horse "Brumby" in natural micarta, 8-3/8" overall, with a 3-3/4" blade. A superb all-arounder, imo:

fydr.jpg


But I would have to agree with JK as well - 'muk designs can do a lot more than many give them credit for.
 
I'm not feeling out in the cold with all this love for drop points. Also like flat/convex/saber grinds and remain a sucker for stacked leather. This old Schrade-Walden gets a lot of use.


H 15 drop point 2 by Pinnah, on Flickr
 
Ive used this knife alot, and must say it is very nice to use.....I dont know if its any better? than my old mora laminate though?..................FES



 
flatblackcapo said:
Jack, can you tell me a little about the drop point you posted?It very much caught my eye.
Click to expand...

You'll struggle to get hold of one I'm afraid. That's my Jack Black Knives U1. Made from Sheffield SF-77 steel vacuum-hardened to RC57, with a two stage gaseous nitrogen cryogenic treatment. Looks pretty ordinary these days, but it was hot stuff in its day (early 1990's). There were only 20 ever made. Main cutler was Stuart Mitchell Snr, heat treatment done by Torvak of Sheffield, sheath (also of my design) was made by Spencraft Leather.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top