What kind of file for axe sharpening?

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Mar 14, 2014
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I'm cleaning up and sharpening all my old axes that have been kicking around the garage for years. I've got plenty of files in my tool box and I'm wondering whats the best kind of file to use? I assume I want a wider, flat-faced filed, but do I want finer or coarser cut? Also is an axe stone a worthwhile investment?

Thanks
 
You'll want a coarse for all the filing and metal removal then you'll want to clean it up with a smooth cut. Same as it you worked with stones. For an axe I don't find it necessary for it to be incredibly sharp but it should be more than a wedge shaped piece of steel.
 
A bastard cut should be coarse enough to start with, then move to a second cut and then a smooth cut should be as far as you need to go for an axe.
 
The multi-cut files are nice, like Pegs said. Really though, a sharp smooth single cut will still beat using a dull bastard cut file. So just start dusting those files off and see what works for you.

The advantages of moving past the files to stones ARE very much worthwhile in my opinion. Better cutting performance, better edge retention, and easier touch ups. Absolutely worthwhile.
 
It depends somewhat on the ax and the use. I'd say all you really need is a course double cut for rough work (using the ax). I like a medium single cut, though. If you are going to try fancy stuff like feather sticks or skinning a rabbit or whatever, then your stones could come in handy (I've never done any of that stuff with an ax or hatchet).
 
I think nicholson makes an ax file that is single cut one one side, and double on the other. It has a forged handle instead of just a tang. Works well if you only want one file.
 
I think nicholson makes an ax file that is single cut one one side, and double on the other. It has a forged handle instead of just a tang. Works well if you only want one file.

Ditto. I don't know what current quality of these is like but Nicholson aptly called them 'axe files' all along. No need to fuss around with handles; they're built in.
 
Great thread. I have lots of questions about files and there uses.

Do any of you chalk your files? Ever heard of this practice?

How long do your files last? I seem to go through them pretty regular.

This is an old Disston catalog that has some pretty good information on files. It is copy write 1936. Not sure if it is available as a PDF on line though.

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I think nicholson makes an ax file that is single cut one one side, and double on the other. It has a forged handle instead of just a tang. Works well if you only want one file.

Simons used to make one also.

This was a new old stock I found a couple months ago. It was going through bits like Grant went through the south until it hit an exceptionally hard Plumb. It would not bite, neither would a NOS Nicholson. A newer Pferd would but not easily. After skipping off the Plumb the Simons has lost some bite for sure.

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the nicholson one i have is reasonably new, and worked just fine on the ox-head felling ax I own (or I should say owned, it may have been fully adopted by a buddy after the move, I think its shared now since he re-hafted it, so I suppose its half his! at least it gets to play) No idea on the comparative harness of the ox
 
I think nicholson makes an ax file that is single cut one one side, and double on the other. It has a forged handle instead of just a tang. Works well if you only want one file.

Simons used to make one also.

This was a new old stock I found a couple months ago. It was going through bits like Grant went through the south until it hit an exceptionally hard Plumb. It would not bite, neither would a NOS Nicholson. A newer Pferd would but not easily. After skipping off the Plumb the Simons has lost some bite for sure.

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That's a "farmer's own" file.
 
i had a 5" bastard triangular file ,that broke in a quad accident when my pack fell out. now i have a slightly longer square an tapered one .

at home i use larger ones , of the bastard range, coarses just jump off to dangerously, and fine ones do not bite enough.
then i hone axes with fine natural stone. (moisture on the axe rather than on the stone water lasts more,and easy to dive into some tiny waterhole ,not freezing fingers in winter...*)

*try this,you'll bless me!:cool:;)
 
I have been restoring quite a bit lately. I am starting to find that my files aren't lasting. When I first started, two years ago, I had all the files from my days in sheet metal. They were 30 some years old, and only one or two of the single cut bastards seemed to work well on the tempered steel of the axe heads. I bought a new set of Nicholsons in 12" and 8". I went to trade school and know how to file - on the forward stroke - and I clean the files regularly with a wire brush while filing. My latest 12" file seems to be getting dull already and its only months old! UNLESS there are heads that come along periodically that are super hard steel. I restored an old Plumb boy's axe a few months ago that nothing seemed to touch. I have restored Plumbs that were not nearly so hard. Yesterday, I was working on a Collins boy's axe that seemed harder than usual. So, three for the masters on this forum:
1) Are you finding that files are not the kind of quality they once were? Are there files that, in your experience are better than others?
2) Might there be something wrong in the way that I am filing? I file pretty much according to the book, the way were taught in trade school. Is it possible to be putting too
much downward pressure on the file? I file from the bit towards the poll. As I am finishing, I will file lightly on a 45 degree angle along the edge to even it out.
2) Do you come across edges that seem harder than others of the same make and era? What might account for that?
I look forward to hearing from you on this topic.
 
Just got a stanly 8 inch file yesterday. Get one if you can the Stanley ones are better then any other file I have used to date.
 
I went to the local industrial supply co. the other day and got a Simonds (made in China) single cut 12". Works darn well, but the Plumb Champion db I used it on seemed to take some spring out of its step [emoji6] That superior steel was a bugger to cut on the shallower angles.
 
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