What knife would you like to see next from CPK?

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Nathan the Machinist said:
This 6" knife... Are you guys wanting a moderate thickness like the 3/16" Field Knife, or something really stout like the 1/4" Shiv?
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I'm torn - I really like my Busse knives - but would I carry them on the trail? Now in a survival situation where you need something that's going to be indestructible thickness certainly helps....
On the other hand with this D3V treatment, from what I've seen it doesn't need to be as thick to do the job and stay strong and tough. And, a lighter knife is much more pleasant to carry around on a hike.
What direction is this particular one going? Camp/hiking/woods? Survival/Zombie Apocalypse?
 
Oh, and i also vote for reinforcing the tip a bit more than the field knife is. In either case i think you're more likely to be using the tip a bit rougher than (I would think) you would with the field knife and there's a lot more leverage on the longer blade
 
AmericanAsApple3.14 said:
I'm torn - I really like my Busse knives - but would I carry them on the trail? Now in a survival situation where you need something that's going to be indestructible thickness certainly helps....
On the other hand with this D3V treatment, from what I've seen it doesn't need to be as thick to do the job and stay strong and tough. And, a lighter knife is much more pleasant to carry around on a hike.
What direction is this particular one going? Camp/hiking/woods? Survival/Zombie Apocalypse?
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I agree. With D3V, I don't need it to be 1/4". 3/16 or .22 should be ok for 6" blade. It will be tough enough to take anything we throw at it and still slice/baton effortlessly



Don
 
in my mind, a survival knife should resist flex. This stiffness is a by product of length and thickness. Or, at least, that's what she said.
 
Lorien said:
in my mind, a survival knife should resist flex. This stiffness is a by product of length and thickness. Or, at least, that's what she said.
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I agree!

I would imagine the thickness will depend on length and height, plus tip profile. Thicker is better till it's too thick to carry comfortably or gets stupid. I dislike overly thick to the point cutting performance is reduced, and being thinner for size would be resist flex as reasonably.
 
I'm in for .20 - .22" thick 6" - 8" survival style blade, and would also like to see a penetrator tip. :thumbup:

ETA: and I would love this to be my Christmas present to myself!!!! <hint! Hint!!> ;)
 
JustinFournier said:
I agree!

I would imagine the thickness will depend on length and height, plus tip profile. Thicker is better till it's too thick to carry comfortably or gets stupid. I dislike overly thick to the point cutting performance is reduced, and being thinner for size would be resist flex as reasonably.
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ya'll know Nate ain't down for shitty cutting performance!
 
JustinFournier said:
If you were privileged enough to witness my last one, you know what kind of treat you guys are in for.
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I was privileged enough to witness the edc rendering. And since I like to be complimentary, I will say that it did produce an almost immediate response with the actual rendering from Mr. Arnold. So yeah, post it up!! :tongue:

NetShocK said:
IMO, finger choils on mid size knives remove blade edge from the area that allows the highest direct force application, being that it's the point nearest the handle. I'm sure others see it differently.
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I am in full agreement, sir. I would vote choilless, unfortunately, us knife nuts will never all agree on choil vs choilless or jimping vs jimpless.
 
JustinFournier said:
My opinion....I'm OK with that thick, .20"-.22" is probably the right range for most. IMO .23" is too thick for the likely blade height and 3V, .188 is probably a good minimum.
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For 6" 3V I think we can agree that it should be >0.125 and < 0.250. right in the middle is 0.1875. Seeing how the 3V functions around this thickness would be good, but thinning as much as possible to be useful not only in the camp/survival mode, but also for camp/kitchen. We all like to eat!!! Although the CPK edc could easily function well there.
 
Nate and Lorien, if I could throw some food for thought out there on the choil/no choil issue, respectfully, and as I say, just to contemplate.....

I have some blades with really well executed choils that I love. I have other blades with no choil, like your Field Knife, that are also just beautifully done and I wouldn't change a thing about. So I'm not necessarily pro-choil or anti-choil (nope, I'm equally hated by both sides!!!:p), but just like to see that when a choil is incorporated in the design, that it's the best choil it can be, so to speak.

On a blade that is choilless, it is very nice to be able to get a high solid choked-up grip for close-in work. It really helps to be able to wrap a thumb over the front edge of the scales to lock such a grip in if there is no choil on the blade. A thick scale in this area, that's designed for such a grip, really helps to execute it. A good example of this is the fiddleback production camp knife. I do not know if Mr. Roy designed the camp knife intentionally for that grip, but it is very good when held in that manner to do close-in work in the area of the blade that is commonly removed for choils. The micarta on the camp knife is a bit sharp without a little work by the end user, though, so I'm not sure that grip was planned. It works, however, and I like that blade choilless, a great knife.

On many blades that incorporate a choil, it seems to me that most are too small to be useful. The knives with the best choils I've had consistently done are from Swamprat. The choils on their big knives like the rat mastiff or M9 are large, rounded and comfortable. They also use a large finger guard that is nicely contoured and comfortable in grips both in and out of the choil. I feel safe when using those type of choils, they are comfortable and functional i.e. all benefit, no risk. I do not like choils that leave a chance that I'll be cut. Actually, that's being too nice, those types of choils, I hate the dang things and just wish they'd been totally left off.

This is just throwing out some thoughts if in fact there is still some question as to whether their will be a choil incorporated in the blade being discussed. And the examples given are put out there strictly as examples of what I see as a well-executed blade whether done with choil or without, not as maker A vs maker B, etc. Thanks for giving us a place to voice our thoughts.

Respectfully,

Dave
 
I really enjoy reading your well conceived posts, with all that rationale and stuff.
 
I would like to put a vote in for a thinner combat knife. Nothing that is in danger of breaking, but why pay for a super steel with a super heat treat if it's going to be so thick that any knife with that thickness could do it? I have tried to like super thick knives and they honestly don't feel like knives in my hand. These things already cut through cinder blocks. That's plenty for me. There is also a balance to how thin you decide to take a thick or thin piece of steel and there are certain structures that are left that increase strength besides general thickness. Ill leave Nathan and Lorein to developing the knife that optimizes everything that it can.
 
I'm thinking that for 6" 3V, the .188 thickness of the Field Knife would be right in the sweet spot between extra beefy and too thin.
As far as a choil is concerned, I can go either way, and would be fine with whatever the design ends up being.
I can adapt...
 
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