What locking mechanism of pocket knives is the best? Why?

Kizer Cutlery

Kizer Cutlery

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What locking mechanism of pocket knives is the best? Why? Let's discuss it in comment!!!;) 微信图片3(1).jpg
PS:Guys! This is an open topic thread! We wanna discuss and have fun with you in here without limited of the fixed clear topic! "Best" could be anything! Strongest, most fun, you like most and why, etc. Just say what you think of and have fun here!

*BTW, Kizer is back to Blade Forums! let's go!!*

*Guys, we will post a discussion thread of a new topic once a week, please join us and have fun!!! The next one will coming soon!!!*

*A leak, it will be about Blade shape!*
 
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anthonycastorena2014 said:
This should be a good thread. If I could only have one it would probably be the compression lock. It is just fun to play with, strong, easily disengaged one handed, and not overly complicated. :thumbsup:
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Thank you;) What about frame lock? Let's wait for more comments and discuss it!!
 
The answer to that question is Yes, locks are great, and depending on where you live, slippies and frictions are good too if its what's on the EDC menu.
I like my compression locks, I like my axis locks, and back locks. I've not had a frame or liner lock that worked for me in the way I wanted it to. That said, I think the overall design has more to do with which lock is going to be the best for that knife. For every great example of a lock, I'm sure someone can find a dud!
 
I like axis style locks but I really like liner locks. Frame locks are good but I don't like that when you are pushing really hard into something you can inadvertently squeeze the lock further closed than it should sometimes resulting in it being very hard to unlock afterwards. The Best of both worlds is a frame lock with a small liner over it similar to the Spyderco Gayle Bradley 1 or Zero Tolerance 0640.
 
Slip joint, back lock (and likes), and axis lock.
Because they do not let the blade open accidentally in a pocket.
 
Best is probably a "subjective" word. If you have seen the cold steel video where they tried to advertise their Tri-ad lock, in some way, one could argue frame lock may or may not be as "reliable" as we think it would be(whether the test is legit or reasonable, totally YMMV). However, in everyday use, it's a decent lock if done properly.

In terms of convenience, my vote goes to compression and axis lock too.

Btw, besides hearing from our members, I'd be interested to hear what Kizer consider to be a 'best' lock as well.
 
I'm happy with a well-executed liner lock. I prefer the feeling of unbroken scale. I also like having the same scale material on both sides. Some frame-locks, especially those that use a dissimilar scale material on the other side, look unfinished or like accidentally exposed machinery. I'd much rather have nice, ergonomically shaped scales made out of G10, micarta, or a nice natural wood.

People sometimes argue that other locks are stronger but honestly, how strong do we expect a lock to be? What are we doing with our folders that the strength difference really matters? We carry knives for different reasons and we use them for different things. Personally, if I expect to be doing anything rough enough to break or damage a lock, I'll just go with a fixed blade.
 
Kizer Cutlery said:
What locking mechanis of pocket knives is the best? Why? Let's discuss it in comment!!!;) View attachment 1304187
BTW, Kizer is back to Blade Forums! let's go!!
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I prefer titanium frame locks or back locks like on my Cold Steel 4Max that can take insane amounts of brutal abuse. The only drawback with back locks: two hand closing. I like one hand operation of my knives, so frame locks that lock in deeply and sit 35%-40% in the blade's spine work for me.

I do hate liners, but if the thickness of the liner is above 3 millimeters or 0.12 American inches and it is a titanium liner, then I am happy... The knife is as tough as any frame lock.

Titanium frames + titanium frame lock + flipper knife that sits on PB washers or IKBS ceramic bearings with 4 - 4.5 inches of cpm 20cv, m4, m390, s90v, 3v, 10, s110v, rex 45 or any other premium blade steels = <3 <3 <3 that's my recipe for happy knife and happy EDC'er.


 
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The best is really subjective, but the strongest, the one that must be near full tang fixed blade strong is the frame lock with security pin made by Miller Bros blades. When the security pin is engaged, it’s impossible for the knife to close in your hands (if the pin is hardened (and not brittle) steel and the frames are strong (and we know titanium sure is)). Really close second will be Andrew Demko Tri-Ad lock. And this would be my first pick, because of simplicity (if you loose the security pin in your Miller Bros blades folder, you will end up with a regular framelock), the genius behind this idea and the fact that this design has been here for years and it’s been tested over one million times!
 
A well executed button lock is my personal favorite. It's compact, reliable, strong, easy to use, doesn't place your finger in the path of the blade when you actuate it and it's not under patent so companies are free to use it. I'd really like to see more manual button locks on the market.
 
Chronovore said:
I'm happy with a well-executed liner lock. I prefer the feeling of unbroken scale. I also like having the same scale material on both sides. Some frame-locks, especially those that use a dissimilar scale material on the other side, look unfinished or like accidentally exposed machinery. I'd much rather have nice, ergonomically shaped scales made out of G10, micarta, or a nice natural wood.

People sometimes argue that other locks are stronger but honestly, how strong do we expect a lock to be? What are we doing with our folders that the strength difference really matters? We carry knives for different reasons and we use them for different things. Personally, if I expect to be doing anything rough enough to break or damage a lock, I'll just go with a fixed blade.
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^ This sums it up very well for me - especially re:frame lock. I like back locks too mostly because they don't interfere with the lines of the knife and are very secure. For a flipper though, any lock that requires two hands or 10 seconds of contortions is bad design. A well designed liner lock more than does the job, in my experience.
 
Demko Lock.

The Lake And Walker Knife Safety (LAWKS), while not a knife lock specifically, adds a tremendous amount of confidence for the user. Yes, there's a discussion about "right tool for the job" implied here, but as some of Kizer's recent threads have also mentioned, we don't always do the right thing.
 
I prefer locks that keep my fingers away from the blade, but I don't mind framelocks/linerlocks. Really the only lock I've tried that I didn't like is the lock on the CRKT Offbeat(?)

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