I'm no professional knife maker, but when I do make a knife, I do certain tests. Most of the blades I make are fairly large, over 6" blade length.
As I work the blade on my grinder after tempering, taking it to final bevel and sharpness, I keep an eye on the steel to see if there are spots which are harder or softer than elsewhere, if the steel grinds faster or slower.
Then, I hit a wooden post with the side of the knife. I slowly but surely increase the severity of the blows, until it becomes clear to me that the blade will bend and then rebound, but won't stay bent. I also look at the handle and guard, etc., to make sure this shock test hasn't loosened them.
Then, I do a chop test. Here, I chop a wooden post, slowly increasing the strength of the blows. I use the whole blade, from just in front of the handle, all the way out to the tip. All the time I'm checking the edge to see if there are any spots that seem to want to chip, roll, or dull. I also continue to check the handle and other fittings.
Then I go to batoning. I baton the blade lengthwise through a wooden post, eventually using full strength on the baton. Again, I check the handle and fittings, and check the blade for straightness, and the edge for effect, looking for any loss of sharpness or rolling or chipping.
I then stab the point of the knife into a wooden post, and pry it out sideways, to check tip strength.
If the knife passes all these tests, then I consider it a success.
This may not be exactly what you are looking for, but it works for me.
Andy