What screws are best for removable handles?

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
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What screws are best for removable handles? (full tang)

I have a knife project I want to do with removable handles.

What are the best options out there?


(pics would help tremendously)

Thanks!

Dan
 
i would find some stainless steel so rust wouldnt be a problem. then i would do some testing to see which type of head works the best for the type of handle material you plan on using. also i would test between torx, phillips and hex head for durability.
 
I would say you have three basic choices:

1) Flat head (aka bugle head-- similar head to a drywall screw) head needs to be countersunk, making top of head flush with handle surface, requires a special countersinking tool to make the top of hole "v"-shaped

2) button head: has a rounded head, could be counterbored, or not counterbored...head is like a domed cylinder...if countersunk, you would require a tool to make the bottom of the hole square (end mill) you may be able to shallowly counterbore these leaving only the dome standing proud for a nice effect

3) socket head cap screw Head is a straight sided cylinder shape, requires counterboring, and therefore an end mill or similar

From there you select materials, and head types (allen head, phillips head, torx, etc)

reference showing examples:

http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=207
 
Dan,
Just an aspect to think about is strength of the above screws; ie. how much of the handle material will be held under the screw head.
the button head without countersinking will be the strongest
the flathead countersunk will be next
the countersunk buttonhead next and
the sockethead would last.
Of all these types I personally would choose the flathead, not only for the strongest bond, but for the ease of installation. An ordinary drill bit will work quite well for the countersinking on flatheads, given the taper on the underside of the screw.
Another consideration is that given the thickness of most tangs you might want to offset the screws a bit, othwise you might only have two threads holding your handle on.
Thanks,
Del
 
We have had many past threads on this subject.

The strongest system will be to have a piece of tubing through the tang and internally threaded to accept the screws. The scales slip over the tubes and the screws lock them down tight.The advantage is a larger screw body size (up to 1/4-28 if you want),for stronger construction. Think of a three piece Corby and you will be visualizing it (two male studs and a female tube).The wider head allows for a shallower recess.Most prefer torx or hex head style.
Stacy
 
This one looks most interesting:



 Flat Head Socket Head Slotted - Zinc Plated


I don't want the head to stand out, would prefer it to be slightly below the surface level. The one above has a nice shallow head. Hard to tell...but looks countersunk too - I prefer a countersunk socket in the handle - for easier finishing and screw head access.



Where can you get threaded tube? I'm not crazy about having to tap everything myself. Would prefer to have it already threaded.
 
Personally i very dislike a flat head socket. Phillips is pretty bad. I like Robertson and Torx.
 
Dan,
Go with the Flat head socket screws (hex head). They're available from Fastenal.
They have the black oxide coating; available in stainless, also. Justin from Ranger Knives uses 'em. The only thing, you have to get the double female insert that the screws go into. Pop's Knife Supply has them. Call him after 4 PM during the week...706-678-5408. Ask him for the "brass nuts". Mine are in 8/32.
 
I've used the longer 3/16" stainless barrels sold for pivots that Knifekits sells. These come with some button head screws which going from memory are like 6-32 size I think but perhaps micro fasteners would have some flat head screws in the same size thread you could substitute for the ones that come with it if you want to recess them. Then all you would need is an 82` countersink for each screw and the handle could be thicker with flat head screws also. Most of these bigger screws that come with the barrels come with a T8 size screw head so they are plenty stout and not prone to stripping or showing dings from the drivers like phillips and flat head screws will. I think Jantz sells them in shorter barrels but with T7 size screws instead though.

STR
 
bladsmth said:
We have had many past threads on this subject.

The strongest system will be to have a piece of tubing through the tang and internally threaded to accept the screws. The scales slip over the tubes and the screws lock them down tight.The advantage is a larger screw body size (up to 1/4-28 if you want),for stronger construction. Think of a three piece Corby and you will be visualizing it (two male studs and a female tube).The wider head allows for a shallower recess.Most prefer torx or hex head style.
Stacy
Click to expand...

Thanks Stacy I have a couple projects in the works myself that this will be perfect
for , been thinking about how to fasten the handles without pins never gave this a thought. I just love these forums somebody always has the info :thumbup:
 
personally I'd recommend SS with a Torx head.

R B Johnson has a selection and will do smaller quantities, as well as SS, black oxide or gold plated finish. Not sure what all sizes he has currently.

his web site is http://www.customknives.com/r.b.johnson/


currently the Atlanta Virtual web host is down for maintenance, so try the URL later today.

Also Les and Marianne Halpern at Halpern Titanium have a selection and larger quantities of SS Torx fasteners.... in Button head all the way up to 8-32 size, in flat head and socket heat, up to 2-56 size.

the URL http://www.halperntitanium.com/

I have done business with RB and with Les & Marianne...can sincerely recommend both.
 
Dan, I have been screwing around for 2 years now, all my knife handles are screwed on. I have yet to have a customer call me and tell me a fastener has failed.

I use female threaded standoff found here www.mcmaster.com type in Female standoffs click on the threaded ones and then narrow your search down. I purchase the .250 in length ( 36 cents ) and use brass they are much cheaper than the SS ones and if you are a tad off in your drill hole the brass gives enough to accept the screw, the SS will strip your screw.

I drill my standoff holes slightly undersized then come back and use a precision reamer to get it to size. I hammer in the standoff it will be a tight fit then grind them flush. Should you mess up the thread you can come back from the other side and the threads will clean up or you just beat it out and put a fresh one in. If for some reason the standoff spins on you just peen a corner insuring not to damage the top threads and it will freeze it in place

For thin stock I use a depth gage to get as much thread as possible, even 2 threads thread locked in is more than enough to keep your handle solid ( I am sure some folks will have a different opinion about that but it works for me )

Once again none of my customers have had a problem with my handles failing with over 600-700 knives out there using this method thats pretty good.

I use black oxide coated button head torx in 4-40 and made a counter bore out of a drill bit the system works well. 4-40 is the smallest standoff made.

Remember you need twice the amount of screws to standoffs

This system works really well for me and i like the fact that you can take and put on the handles do shaping, finish the knife tang and if you mess one up you just redo it.

If you need any more help get my number Mr clean and give me a call

Also there is a thread in my forum somewhere else called building the Hornet its got pics of this process.

Spencer
 
Only flathead screws get countersunk.
The others are counterbored.
Flat bottom in the hole = Counterbore

You can also use screws commonly called chicago screws, binding barrels, or sex bolts.
 
KnifeWerks said:
Only flathead screws get countersunk.
The others are counterbored.
Flat bottom in the hole = Counterbore

You can also use screws commonly called chicago screws, binding barrels, or sex bolts.
Click to expand...

I have a sex bolt too! :D
 
I really like flared tubes for a hard user-style knife. Light-weight, strong, etc. Problem is, everyone will be thinking of Busse if you use 'em.:D

For removable scales sex bolts are a great choice if you can find 'em with decent-looking torx heads.

If you're using really thick blade stock on a tactical, you might get away with just running flatheads. If you can place your countersinks accurately, they can generate a lot of locating and hold-down power for your scales. That's one problem with sex bolts --- the head diameter is usually not much greater than the tube-nut. It's usually fine unless you're using something softish like wood or canvas micarta and you anticipate some deflection from prying action. If the little ledge the screw head is holding on too is crushed in use even a little, the screw will be loose and you may loose it. Custom, oversized screw heads on a sex bolt would be the ticket, but are gonna cost you.
 
richard j said:
i would find some stainless steel so rust wouldnt be a problem. then i would do some testing to see which type of head works the best for the type of handle material you plan on using. also i would test between torx, phillips and hex head for durability.
Click to expand...

I agree go with hex heads hard to strip the head.:thumbup:
 
I use Mcmaster-Carr # 99637A183sex bolts on my ECS.
1/4" diameter barrel, 7/16" Diameter head.
Combo Phillips/Flat head drive.

Sent quite a few of these to soldiers now, and they like the fact that they can work the screws.
Phillips and flatheads are common Everywhere, torx and such aren't.

That being said, I use button head torx on all my folders.
 
KnifeWerks - what you are suggesting sounds best so far. I'm with you on the combo head idea. Better "in the field" than a torx/hex/etc.

Like this then?

98002ac1l.gif


Paired with this:

98002ac2l.gif




Counterbore is fine...I would have prefered countersunk, though. Easier to do and leaves a nice bevel. I would probably come back over the counterbore and countersink it to break the edge anyway...so, "countersink only" would eliminate a step.
 
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