What Shapton is better?

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Darryl D..

Joined
Jul 15, 2019
Messages
41
Hey guys I needed a coarse grit and wanted a Shapton what one would be better for both softer and some what harder steels . Like D2 and VG 10 and my work knives they are Victorinox.. I was thinking the 320 or the glass 500 any thoughts ??
 
Darryl D.. said:
Hey guys I needed a coarse grit and wanted a Shapton what one would be better for both softer and some what harder steels . Like D2 and VG 10 and my work knives they are Victorinox.. I was thinking the 320 or the glass 500 any thoughts ??
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As I recall the Shapton Glass 320 is world renowned !
I don't have one but have seen enough testing.

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the Shapton Pro 120 !
It is maybe more aggressive than you had in mind but it geeets'er done quick. In use it feels like it refines an edge nicely when you let up on the pressure.
Good stuff (I have two; long story).
I'm using it here to polish out grind scratches from the whole side of this knife.
It doesn't load up and just keeps cutting well even doing this kind of work.
IMG_3712.jpg
 
Wowbagger, what's your opinion of the Shapton Pro 120 for hogging off knife metal fast, such as heavy reprofiling? I mostly have INFI, SR101, 5160, and 1095 steel.

I know a lot of this has to do with the type of abrasive, type of bond (how fast abrasive is released), how much pressure is used, etc., and can't be judged by grit size alone.

I often reprofile freehand with 50 or 60 grit stones, sandpaper, or emery cloth, but would like to find a higher grit abrasive that works as well (if this is even possible) to keep the depth of the scratches down.

Thank you....
 
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The Pro 120 works but I would recommend the Glass 120 and Glass stones in general. The Glass stones cut faster and with a wider range of steels. With that said I would probably recommend the Naniwa Pro 400 and Naniwa Aotoshi 2k for the steels you have listed. It's a simple two stone system that can yield jaw dropping results.

I know, I know, the 400. The Naniwa Pro 400 believe it or not is just as fast on low alloy carbon and stainless steels and the Shapton 120. It's other awesome feature is the scratch pattern is very refined for 400 grit making it easy to follow with the 2k Aotoshi.
 
MtnHawk1 said:
Wowbagger, what's your opinion of the Shapton Pro 120 for hogging off knife metal fast, such as heavy reprofiling?
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Probably listen to Jason on this one.
Sure the 120 Pro works well for reprofiling. I even use a 220 for reprofiling . . . my DMT 10" for S110V and it goes quick. It's a long stone though (the longer the better for reprofiling).

Here's Ricky. I agree the 120 Pro is loud. For me it does not wear fast; he says it does. I have a 120 Jende for my Edge Pro Apex which in theory is the same as the 120 Glass Shapton but the Jende DOES WEAR SUPER FAST. I wonder if Ricky got hold of a bad Shapton Pro. He comments on the Shapton Glass 120 bench stone. I have no experience with that other than the Jende.
 
Jason B. and Wowbagger, thank you for your replies and good info!

The video was very informative. He does a good job reviewing and gives the top rating in this group, and others, for cutting speed to the 200 grit Suehiro Debado MD-20, which is "splash and go". Interesting that he says the Shapton Glass 220 cuts faster than the Pro 120, but unfortunately doesn't say why. I'm glad to have found out that both Jason B. and the video recommend the Glass over the Pro, as the Pro is what I would have bought if I hadn't seen these posts.

I was also glad to find out the Shaptons were all "splash and go". I generally avoid waterstones because they are too messy and high maintenance for me but of course the "splash and go" type would be much easier to use.

I watched a video on the Naniwa Pro 400. They require a pre-soak, so are not really "splash and go", but I was surprised to learn that they don't load up. I've never heard that said about any stone.
 
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Jason B. said:
The Pro 120 works but I would recommend the Glass 120 and Glass stones in general. The Glass stones cut faster and with a wider range of steels. With that said I would probably recommend the Naniwa Pro 400 and Naniwa Aotoshi 2k for the steels you have listed. It's a simple two stone system that can yield jaw dropping results.

I know, I know, the 400. The Naniwa Pro 400 believe it or not is just as fast on low alloy carbon and stainless steels and the Shapton 120. It's other awesome feature is the scratch pattern is very refined for 400 grit making it easy to follow with the 2k Aotoshi.
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That’s awesome cause I actually have the Naniwa 2k, I don’t use it all that much , also I have the 600Chosera I so wish I got the 400 , the 600 is growing on me a little bit more then when I 1st got it a few months ago. It’s super soft n muddy i seem to get really uneven edges on that stone ,, but like I said i def am seeing more improvements on that stone .. have you ever used or heard anything about the King Deluxe 300 ? I just came across it and they are saying it’s a splash n go.. I’m thinking on giving that a shot .. I have 1/6k combo that I started with and a 1200 Deluxe that I love I use that stone most until lately I got a Shapton 1k n really love the edge I get on my Vicki’s for work it’s a nice crisp edge with a big bite to it .. thanks for the input fellas
 
MtnHawk1 said:
Jason B. and Wowbagger, thank you for your replies and good info!

The video was very informative. He does a good job reviewing and gives the top rating in this group, and others, for cutting speed to the 200 grit Suehiro Debado MD-20, which is "splash and go". Interesting that he says the Shapton Glass 220 cuts faster than the Pro 120, but unfortunately doesn't say why. I'm glad to have found out that both Jason B. and the video recommend the Glass over the Pro, as the Pro is what I would have bought if I hadn't seen these posts.

I was also glad to find out the Shaptons were all "splash and go". I generally avoid waterstones because they are too messy and high maintenance for me but of course the "splash and go" type would be much easier to use.

I watched a video on the Naniwa Pro 400. They require a pre-soak, so are not really "splash and go", but I was surprised to learn that they don't load up. I've never heard that said about any stone.
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When your using your Aotoshi do sharpen edges trailing or leading? I seem t round out the edge when leading. I spoke if this before on this thread, I’m just curious to see what other guys are doing and think about that stone. It’s def a tough stone for me to work on.I gotta spend more time and experiment with different pressure and consistency with pressure and angles on that 2k that’s for sure! Thanks for everything fellas
 
Darryl D.. said:
That’s awesome cause I actually have the Naniwa 2k, I don’t use it all that much , also I have the 600Chosera I so wish I got the 400 , the 600 is growing on me a little bit more then when I 1st got it a few months ago. It’s super soft n muddy i seem to get really uneven edges on that stone ,, but like I said i def am seeing more improvements on that stone .. have you ever used or heard anything about the King Deluxe 300 ? I just came across it and they are saying it’s a splash n go.. I’m thinking on giving that a shot .. I have 1/6k combo that I started with and a 1200 Deluxe that I love I use that stone most until lately I got a Shapton 1k n really love the edge I get on my Vicki’s for work it’s a nice crisp edge with a big bite to it .. thanks for the input fellas
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I never liked the 600, the 400 is better in every way and cuts a lot faster. It would be worth it to purchase the 400 IMO.

Darryl D.. said:
When your using your Aotoshi do sharpen edges trailing or leading? I seem t round out the edge when leading. I spoke if this before on this thread, I’m just curious to see what other guys are doing and think about that stone. It’s def a tough stone for me to work on.I gotta spend more time and experiment with different pressure and consistency with pressure and angles on that 2k that’s for sure! Thanks for everything fellas
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When you get good with the 2k you can use any method you want but for the time being you will need to used edge trailing only strokes. You can use the 600 and 2k for now and it should work pretty well but make sure the stones are flat and I would recommend using edge trailing on both.

The uneven edge might be a few things combined but I would start by slowing down and being consistent as possible. The more pressure you use and more aggressive you grind the more uneven the edge will become. Keep muddy stones flat and the movements light and consistent, should improve things
 
MtnHawk1 said:
I generally avoid waterstones because they are too messy and high maintenance
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Less finicky than salt water fish though.
Some people keep fish in tanks I keep water stones.
Not even any slime as long as I keep the lids on when not in use ! ! !
The Old Team .JPG
 
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Jason B. said:
I never liked the 600, the 400 is better in every way and cuts a lot faster. It would be worth it to purchase the 400 IMO.



When you get good with the 2k you can use any method you want but for the time being you will need to used edge trailing only strokes. You can use the 600 and 2k for now and it should work pretty well but make sure the stones are flat and I would recommend using edge trailing on both.

The uneven edge might be a few things combined but I would start by slowing down and being consistent as possible. The more pressure you use and more aggressive you grind the more uneven the edge will become. Keep muddy stones flat and the movements light and consistent, should improve things
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Thanks man I appreciate it, Is there anywhere that I could trade that stone for another or towards another ?
 
E05C950C-7EE5-4D77-A9C5-08FAC4330079.jpeg I don’t think you can do it with one stone. I would recommend at least these two.
 
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