What specific tasks do you use your spey blade for?

R

Ribeyeguy

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May 15, 2014
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I've been using the spey blade on my Buck 301 basically for dirty chores when I don't want to damage the Clip or sheepsfoot blade. Anything specific other than the obvious that you use the spey for? Im just trying to gather some more ideas because its a pretty nice size spey on my knife.
 
I've never speyed any critter, but sometimes I use one for scooping out a hole or something similar to cleaning out/expanding the bowl on a tobacco pipe.
 
thawk said:
I've never speyed any critter, but sometimes I use one for scooping out a hole or something similar to cleaning out/expanding the bowl on a tobacco pipe.
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Kind of makes me wish I had a pipe. The last and only pipe I've ever had was the popeye pipe when I was younger.
 
Yep, usually saved for the dirty/abusive jobs on my work knives.

I do have a couple casual carry stockmen that see less work where I keep a very acute edge on the spey blade more as a pocket razor.
 
The knife I always carry when I plan to use one at lunch is my elk stag GEC #48 traditional trapper. The 440C stainless spey blade is perfect for peeling and slicing fruit, spreading condiments, and just about anything else in preparing a lunch. The stag covers are beautiful and non-threatening, and the stainless blades always look clean to those who are unfamiliar with patina.

GEC48open_zps0f00d20c.jpg~original
 
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I thought about what it would look like if I filed the spey down to a small drop point, but than I wouldn't be able to spread peanut butter or jam as easily.
 
Ribeyeguy said:
I thought about what it would look like if I filed the spey down to a small drop point, but than I wouldn't be able to spread peanut butter or jam as easily.
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This is the (former) spey on my 301, after I re-ground the tip into what I think of as a 'spear'; but it could also pass for a drop point, I suppose. I didn't really like how the factory spey grind left the tip & edge exposed above the liners, so I ground the spine down until the 'point' was just below flush (2nd pic):



David
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
This is the (former) spey on my 301, after I re-ground the tip into what I think of as a 'spear'; but it could also pass for a drop point, I suppose. I didn't really like how the factory spey grind left the tip & edge exposed above the liners, so I ground the spine down until the 'point' was just below flush (2nd pic):
P8150161_zpseca17af7.jpg

P8150159_zpsce73ef13.jpg



David
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The tip above the liner doesn't bother me but I really like what you did with the shape. Did you do that on a wheel?
 
Ribeyeguy said:
The tip above the liner doesn't bother me but I really like what you did with the shape. Did you do that on a wheel?
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Thanks. I actually used a 21" x 3" sanding belt (120-grit 'Zirconia Alumina' from Sears), cut and glued down to a board, drawing the inverted blade down it's length (tip-trailing). Took maybe 45 minutes or so, with the 24" board laid across my lap, while watching TV. Used a wine cork pressed onto the upward-facing cutting edge, as a place to put my index finger to exert some pressure. After the new point was formed & sharp at the tip, I followed up with some wet/dry sandpaper, to get the finish looking almost like factory on the spine (maybe 320-600 grit, I don't remember). Worked out better than I thought it might.


David
 
In the 32 years I have owned this knife I have only used the spey blade to cut cattle,skin a few fox squirrels to tan the hide for fly tying,skinned one 3 1/2' timber rattler,and once shaved a place on my chin that I missed when shaving that morning.The clip and sheepsfoot blades are well worn but this ones profile is almost the same as when it still had"for flesh only"on it.
 
I normally use full length spey blades for food purposes only. All my knives with full length spey blades also have another blade (clip, drop point, or pen) that get used for non food purposes.

I rarely carry a stockman and when I did, it was a small 3 3/8" stockman usually. For that knife, I rarely used the spey blade.
 
Depends on the knife pattern. On a Trapper type, it's for food or skinning. On a stockman, I'll use it for either medical type stuff..... or work that the sheepsfoot doesn't do as well as I tend to save the clip for food.
 
The most worthless blade design ever in my opinion. I'm quite sure that it served a purpose at one time but not many of us have a need to "spey" animals anymore, yet this blade shows up on so many knives. I refuse to buy a knife with a spey blade. Just my two cents...
 
Knife blades are designed to cut. I've never had a spey blade fail to accomplish any task I've asked it to do. It even excels at some jobs - like cutting out the tongues of trolls, at the root.;):D
 
Ribeyeguy said:
I've been using the spey blade on my Buck 301 basically for dirty chores when I don't want to damage the Clip or sheepsfoot blade. Anything specific other than the obvious that you use the spey for? Im just trying to gather some more ideas because its a pretty nice size spey on my knife.
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Depends.
Usually I keep the spey super sharp and only use it when I need that super sharpness.

But years ago I had a need to perform a special cutting job on a regular basis at work. That job required a dull blade. I was carrying a stockman at the time. I dulled the spey a bit buy rubbing the edge at 90° on a Washita stone. Then I used the spey blade to make those cuts. Worked perfect.

So, to me it depends on what your own needs are. I really only use the clip and the sheepsfoot on a stockman. That leaves the Spey as a bonus blade. Use it however you need.
 
In the lab in which I worked, one of the things we did was to form a highly modified silicone rubber onto thin sheets of Mylar (a plastic). The process left excess rubber extending past the edges of the Mylar. We needed to trim the rubber so that it exactly matched the edge of the Mylar. Each sheet took several days to make. They were fiendishly expensive and were used for various specific purposes on aircraft. Random cuts on the edge were not acceptable, nor was a raggedy edge.

A really sharp blade would cut through both materials. A dull blade wouldn't cut either of them; the rubber would just tear (unacceptable). So there was a need for a blade which was just sharp enough, but not too sharp. I kept that spey blade exactly the correct sharpness to make that cut.
 
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