What to expect from D2 steel? (Rant included)

E

EatingSarma

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Jun 22, 2020
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I think title says it all.
Also, how hard is it to sharpen? Comparable to 3V?
(Yes, I have diamond sharpeners).
Feel free to skip the rants below if you're in a hurry.

I currently have 2 knives and I needed another one.
But, I am becoming a student, so price plays major role in my decision making.
I'm kinda late bloomer, but like my friend on here of similar age (almost same bday) I'm also paying my own education.
Now forgive me for unneecessary rants.

I was looking at budget knives and was cringing at 5Cr...8Cr...9Cr... 440...420... and AUS steels. I might be a steel snob but well.

So I was drawn to D2 (for some reason it's calling me for a long time). And I couldn't decide over Boker GoBag or Manly Patriot. So I just ordered both.

So Warcraft Tanto and Esee 3 are forrest/camping knives.

Manly Patriot and Boker GoBag are EDC. I opted for D2 because it's fairly stainless and holds a good edge (I like toothy edges) plus for some reason something is drawing me to D2.

Your opinions are greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to Blade Forums!

Well, I own a few D2 knives and I have gotten decent at sharpening them. I also have diamond stones and do freehand sharpening.

If you are used to sharpening Aus8, xCr..., 4xx, etc then there is a little of a learning curve. Mostly due to the toughness of D2 compared to what you are probably use too. If you aren't use to diamond stones, be careful, they can remove material fast. Not everything that is "coarse" cuts the same.

The key to sharpening, like most things, is patience and take it slow. You need to learn what your stones do on your knives and that just takes practice. If you don't own a leather strop, I highly suggest getting one. An old leather belt + compound will even work. No need to buy a fancy strop as a student.

Also, I don't own anything in 3V so I can't compare the two.
 
What do I expect from D2?
Not much.
I expect it to take longer to sharpen than my 440A, and other "obsolete" or "low end" steel blades.
I expect it to hold an edge longer than my 440A, and other "obsolete" or "low end" steel blades when used for the same tasks.
Whether it does or not is yet to be determined.
From what I've read about D2 here, I expect it not to take a patina. :(

I can't think of anything else I expect out of D2.
 
gazz98 said:
If you don't own a leather strop, I highly suggest getting one. An old leather belt + compound will even work. No need to buy a fancy strop as a student.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I use :)
Old leather belt and diamond polishing paste I get for cheap from China. It gets knives scary sharp.

Edit: Do you think mouse pad would also work if I need bigger surface?
JPD1998 said:
D2 is one of my favorite knife steels.
The trick I've learned is to touch up the blade with a ceramic rod before they get really dull.
Click to expand...
I don't have ceramic rod, but I do have Fallkniven DC4 sharpener. That isone side diamond and other one ceramic.
I think that it could work well combined with the strop :)


D2 seems decent, plenty of edge retention, decent corrosion resistance, good toughness too.
As for the toughness, I won't use these small blades as choppers and I 100% won't be batoning either of them.
And all that for affordable price is definitley thumbs up from me.

Also, thanks everyone for good advices :D
 
I always struggled with sharpening D2 until recently, when I purchased diamond stones for my Edge Pro. It's not a steel I ever personally liked sharpening on a SharpMaker. I also will generally finish with fine, polished edges whereas D2 seems to strongly prefer medium, more toothy, which to my understanding is due to its massive carbide sizes. In terms of how hard to sharpen, I subjectively consider it more difficult to achieve great results than with M390 but less difficult than ZDP-189. (Do note that my sharpening experience with D2 is limited to Benchmades and a Spyderco, and obviously the heat treatment and edge geometry will both impact sharpenability.)
 
pnsxyr said:
I always struggled with sharpening D2 until recently, when I purchased diamond stones for my Edge Pro. It's not a steel I ever personally liked sharpening on a SharpMaker. I also will generally finish with fine, polished edges whereas D2 seems to strongly prefer medium, more toothy, which to my understanding is due to its massive carbide sizes. In terms of how hard to sharpen, I subjectively consider it more difficult to achieve great results than with M390 but less difficult than ZDP-189. (Do note that my sharpening experience with D2 is limited to Benchmades and a Spyderco, and obviously the heat treatment and edge geometry will both impact sharpenability.)
Click to expand...
I see. I guess I'll have to get some experience myself, but advices from forum crew are appreciated :)
 
As "D2" steel is widely defined, so will be the experiences of the people that own it and use it. Certainly, giive it a try, doubtful you will find it a problem to sharpen and maintain. My personal experience with D2 is widely varied as well.

I have an old Kershaw Junkyard dog with the D2 composite blade that I have had for about 15+ years or so. Thin at the edge, it will take a really sharp edge and hold it for a respectable amount of time out on the job site. I have a Queen Country Cousin and a few other Queen knives with D2 blades, and the Queen D2 is much harder. Just got a Harnds "General" (thanks to the guys in the "Big Folder" thread!) in D2 and is just about right. Holds an edge very well. Just cut a couple of hundred feet of heavy cardboard up to test it out and was very pleased.

In my sweaty pocket, the Kershaw rusted during the hot summer months. The Queen knives only got a tiny spec of rust now and then. Surprisingly, even with near 100F weather now not a sign of rust or corrosion on the Harnds.

Sharpening all of them is easy if you are experienced in sharpening and proficient with your gear. I sharpen all of them with a 1200gr oval diamond rod with NO problems. Easily get a hair shaving edge. For the blades on my Queen knives that I use to notch my cigars, I use a strop that is a piece of really heavy cardboard charged with green compound to get that fine edge.

Robert
 
Don't write of 440C.

420HC by Buck is a gem for rust resistance, and absolutely a joy to sharpen. It won't hold an edge as lomg as D2, or 440C, but touches up much faster.

D2 takes longer to sharpen, especially if you have to reset the bevel.

I have entirely reground 4 blades in D2. It is work! Especially if you are trying to regrind by hand, or polish by hand.

The D2 I use is all Queen steel. Holds an edge just fine.

I would add CPM 154 also to your list.

I have also enjoyed ATS34 (you don't see it as much).

Also a cost effective, tough steel to keep your eye out for is AEBL. Tough and super easy to sharpen.
 
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Bigfattyt said:
Don't write of 440C.

Good stuff snipped for brevity (point made)
Click to expand...

I agree with you on the 440C. I remember when it was "wonder" and "super" steel! I have a Buck 119 that is a miserable hunting knife, but an excellent camp/outdoor utility knife in 440C. Had it for decades, and it has been an excellent performer.

I also have a 40+ year old Browning Folding hunter (claimed by Browning to be hand made at the time) and it is in 440c, and it is an excellent camp/hunting knife. Not pocketable due to its bulk, but the feel in the hand and the sweep of the blade make it a great tool for all around use, but it shines for dismantling an animal such as a deer. All the years of use on animals and the super high polish of the blade is a bit scratched, but not even stained.

Good stuff. Nearly forgotten now, and it is a shame. It's a great, affordable steel for EDC knives. I have a Boker Stockman in 440C that is ground very thin and flat, and it is a favorite carry.

Robert
 
How well EDCing a fixed blade will go over really depends on the school...

I haven't had problems with D2, and live in a humid environment near the ocean. A wipe down with TuffCloth wouldn't hurt, but isn't really necessary.
 
Heat treatment can matter a lot and there are some good examples among the steels you mention. People have already mentioned 440C and Buck's 420. Another great example is 9Cr18Mov. I've had lame 9Cr18Mov from companies like Schrade that caused me to write it off. Then I got a Civivi in 9Cr18Mov and I was blown away. Performance was in the same ballpark as Kershaw's 14C28N. Now 9Cr18Mov is one of my most frequent EDC steels between three folders from Civivi and a fixed blade from Real Steel.

Apparently, I've never had the good D2. I have several knives in Chinese D2 from Bestech, Civivi, Petrified Fish, etc. It holds a decent edge in my experience. It's a big win over 8Cr13Mov at the low end of the price spectrum. The only problem is its low corrosion resistance. D2 is only semi-stainless. That'll be fine for some people. It's fine for me outside of summer...

Now my D2 knives are shelved until Fall. I take them down for periodic inspection and a wipe-down with mineral oil, just in case. The other day, I noticed a few hazy rust spots on my Civivi Exarch. It was near the spine. Looking more closely, I could see that they were centered around a lone fingerprint on each side. I had adjusted the pivot and checked for blade play about a week prior. Forgetting to wipe off the fingerprint on each side was enough and that's why I hate D2.
 
I don't live near the ocean. I've had no issues with polished D2 from a corrosion standpoint. But Im also used to plain carbon steels in a majority of my edc's.

I've never had D2 corrode, or rust from finger prints, etc, but I kept mine at a near mirror polish on a loaded strop.
 
midnight flyer said:
As "D2" steel is widely defined, so will be the experiences of the people that own it and use it. Certainly, giive it a try, doubtful you will find it a problem to sharpen and maintain. My personal experience with D2 is widely varied as well.

I have an old Kershaw Junkyard dog with the D2 composite blade that I have had for about 15+ years or so. Thin at the edge, it will take a really sharp edge and hold it for a respectable amount of time out on the job site. I have a Queen Country Cousin and a few other Queen knives with D2 blades, and the Queen D2 is much harder. Just got a Harnds "General" (thanks to the guys in the "Big Folder" thread!) in D2 and is just about right. Holds an edge very well. Just cut a couple of hundred feet of heavy cardboard up to test it out and was very pleased.

In my sweaty pocket, the Kershaw rusted during the hot summer months. The Queen knives only got a tiny spec of rust now and then. Surprisingly, even with near 100F weather now not a sign of rust or corrosion on the Harnds.

Sharpening all of them is easy if you are experienced in sharpening and proficient with your gear. I sharpen all of them with a 1200gr oval diamond rod with NO problems. Easily get a hair shaving edge. For the blades on my Queen knives that I use to notch my cigars, I use a strop that is a piece of really heavy cardboard charged with green compound to get that fine edge.

Robert
Click to expand...
Manly Patriot uses German DIN 1.2379 which is equivalent to ANSI D2 and is more corrosion resistant than other D2 variations.

About Boker GoBag - it only had few specks of rust after S Smiling 's gf left it inside wet sink over night, and only the side touching wet sponge rusted according to him.
 
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