What type of drill bits do you all use?

Blasted Hill Knives

Blasted Hill Knives

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Feb 3, 2015
Messages
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Hi all! I am really struggling with finding a good drill bit to use for making pivot holes and pin holes in my knife blanks. I typically use 440C stainless steel, O-1 and 1084. I typically have the need for just two bit sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. I've been buying bits in 12 packs on Amazon. The brand is Irwin and they are cobalt drill bits (allegedly). They are made in China. It seems that some of the packages contain decent bits, but others will barely go through 1/16 stainless without smoking and glowing red. I'm at my wits end with this and would appreciate any help!
Thanks,
Mike
 
Please tell us more about your drilling practice. What type of drill, rpm, pressure, lubrication, pilot hole etc.

A higher quality bit definitely will not hurt.
 
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Not always true - because of all the variables - but I've found difficulties in drilling our typical knife steels more often lie in the steel's condition - not the drill bit.
Even a well used, off-the-shelf bit will drill spherodized tool steel.

That said, I use the Norse drill bits from Fastenal.

I haven't had to use any kind of carbide or high-tech drill bit in 20 years of knife making.
 
I agree you are using bad drills, but it's more about the way you're using it.

I also disagree with your sizes

You cannot put a 1/4" pin in a 1/4" hole
Look at number and letter sizes

Try searching, there is lots of info on this topic.


RPM's also
1,000rpm or less, no harm going slower

I suspect you are drilling the O1 because ti's really well annealed and smoking on the air hardening steels because of friction and work hardening it.
 
Grinchsmile said:
Hi all! I am really struggling with finding a good drill bit to use for making pivot holes and pin holes in my knife blanks. I typically use 440C stainless steel, O-1 and 1084. I typically have the need for just two bit sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. I've been buying bits in 12 packs on Amazon. The brand is Irwin and they are cobalt drill bits (allegedly). They are made in China. It seems that some of the packages contain decent bits, but others will barely go through 1/16 stainless without smoking and glowing red. I'm at my wits end with this and would appreciate any help!
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

So far the best I've ever had.

2ev3hbd.jpg


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Heller-Piece-Cobalt-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003A63RCY
 
gjblade said:
Please tell us more about your drilling practice. What type of drill, rpm, pressure, lubrication, pilot hole etc.

A higher quality bit definitely will not hurt.
Click to expand...
I have a Grizzly tabletop drill press (pretty hefty) and I run it at the RPM's recommended in the guide for steel (sorry, I don't remember it off the top of my head, but it is slow-medium. I start a pilot hole with a punch, use light to medium pressure and I use 3 in 1 oil. Thanks for yor help!
 
Grinchsmile said:
I have a Grizzly tabletop drill press (pretty hefty) and I run it at the RPM's recommended in the guide for steel (sorry, I don't remember it off the top of my head, but it is slow-medium. I start a pilot hole with a punch, use light to medium pressure and I use 3 in 1 oil. Thanks for yor help!
Click to expand...

Try using Tap Magic for lubricant. Run the drill at the lowest speed possible and try one of the higher quality bits the other posters have mentioned. When drilling watch for chips/swarf to form and adjust pressure to make sure that they do...no chippy = no drilly. Report back to us, good luck!
 
With what Karl said, I think I've been using the same bits for 20 years. The 2 I use most 1/16"
and 3 /32" I do replace once in a while but not often. Like 2 or 3 times a year.
Ken.
 
Norseman black and gold. I buy them 10 at a time in 1/4" and letter "F" and a set of the rest. I also buy reground tungsten carbide from Drill Bit City online by 10 packs in 1/8, 5/32, 3/16. Larry
 
I using now Atorn HSS-Co Cobalt drill bits set 1-10mm with 0,5mm step.
Also I using Atorn drills 0,1-0,2mm smaller for using with H7 class reamers.

Mostly I work on 220RPM + drilling oil, and knife / parts in precision vise ( I use this vise also for surface grinder )
 
Odd that this comes up today. Someone pitched the Norseman's to me at work yesterday. I went by the location today and picked up 1 or 2 in several different sizes to try. Came home this evening and drilled a few weight reduction holes in a blade and was seriously impressed. They were sharp! Cut nice spirals rather than just chips. Now to see how long it lasts.
 
Well, Stainless can be a SOB to drill.
If the drill does not start off cutting right away, It can work harden to where regular HSS drills dont do much.
My best strategy for drilling stainless is sharp bit (obvious) and high drilling pressure right away.
Of course correct speed for the sizes and a squirt of lube if justified.
 
I buy domestic cobalt bits from Enco. McMaster Carr drill bits are also very good (generally you don't know what brand name you're buying). 135° split point.
 
You want to see curls not chips. if you are seeing chips either the bit is dull or the steel is not soft enough or your speed is too fast. speed should be as slow as you can go and the pressure should be firm enough to produce the curls but not hard enough to smoke the bit. I like the cobalt jobbers from Enco. but any 135 degree bit should work when your speed is slow and the steel is soft.
 
From my experience the material of drill bit is very important. I use HSS-Co drill bits for stainless and Ti, works great.
 
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