What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Best way to cool, nice and straight


Working on my heat treat setup. Got some aluminium delivered yesterday. These are appr 2x2.5x20" blocks, resting on a 1/4" steel plate "floating" on some square tubing above the steel plate that covers the bench. I wanted some air between the hot stuff and the bench. Clamps are 3000 Newton each, hope they'll suffice. The idea is to quench spine down. Oven is going just to the left of this. Still waiting for a bigger air tank, and most importantly the oven itself..:)

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Here's my most complex guard yet, 13 pieces of 416, brass and red n black fiber sammiches. With my primitive shop that's about 12 hours into it, sanded to 2000 grit and buffed. It's going on a 52100 hunter with bubinga handle.wip 1.JPG wip 2.JPG wip 3.JPG
welp, back to handle finishing!
 
One step closer to finish.......................
two stainless 6mm pins and one 4mm from bronze are pinned
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Then drilled hole for 3mm pin at the end of scale and 2mm for middle one.Both pin would be pinned and carbon scale glued to frame ........
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Spring work well , it take little force to push it back
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This will be 6.00 mm pivot for blade .It is from hardened stainless not magnetic ball bearing steel .I need to take of on lathe little , where it is ball race ...
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I plan to make several blades from different steel for this knife .....
 
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1/8" textured G10 fitted now. Alu hollow pins. Blade is .10" RWL-34. It was horrible trying to get those tiny short pins flat and flush to the G10 surface. Well this is a prototype so I'll live with the results.
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Looks good to me :thumbsup: If you think on this small gap here / if it is gap/ you can fix that easy .......take some round steel and taper the end .Then put handle on some wood , put taper in hole of pin and use gently hammer on it ....gap will disappear.Then you can use adequate taper reamer and make small taper inside every pin .....I think that pins will look even better that way ?
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Looks good to me :thumbsup: If you think on this small gap here / if it is gap/ you can fix that easy .......take some round steel and taper the end .Then put handle on some wood , put taper in hole of pin and use gently hammer on it ....gap will disappear.Then you can use adequate taper reamer and make small taper inside every pin .....I think that pins will look even better that way ?
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Thanks, good idea I'll try something like that!
 
I'm currently working on this prototype design Utility/Hunter. This one is 1075 with a Hamon. The guard is bronze, which will have a forced patina, and the handle is walnut, which I am presently giving the Tru-Oil treatment. The pins will be hand domed, so they will be inserted when the finish is complete. That way I can ding it all up. I will tweak the next few of these until I feel the design is dialed in sufficiently.
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A quick announcement, I finally launched a website: https://www.ciibladeworks.com/

Here is some recent work:

W2 240mm gyuto with ebony and carbon fiber handle...saya is maple. This is from a screenshot of the website.
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Theses blades are by Yasha Yukawa, a licensed sword maker in Japan. I made the handles from mammoth ivory with nickel-silver ferrules / endcap...again maple sayas.
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Four knives with desert ironwood in progress.
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Red Jigged bone Lannys Clip in AEB-L stainless at 62c hand sanded, riding on an aluminum bronze bushing with stainless bolsters, milled relief liners and pinned shield.

Snappy walk and talk and flush all 3 positions.

Thanks for looking.


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Got ' er done! The Black River Hunter in 52100, bubinga, 416SS, brass and fiber spacers.
Beautiful. Question - is the guard glued up to produce the laminations? If so, how does the glue (and the fiber spacers!) take to the soldering process?? (Or maybe you solder the front piece of the guard, then laminate afterward?)
 
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