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That's 1200grit and linseed oil. I would like to find something better, but I'm not sure about varnish on kitchen knife handles.
 
Alex Topfer said:
That's 1200grit and linseed oil. I would like to find something better, but I'm not sure about varnish on kitchen knife handles.
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I have learned the hard way that even a built up linseed oil finish quickly fades in kitchen use. I have read alot of good things about tru-oil but haven't had the chance to try it yet myself
 
I do around 6-12 super thin coats of Tru Oil. It's been working great. Buy the smallest bottle that you can and still a lot of it will dry out before you get to use it.
 
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Alllmost ready for epoxy, I started a thread couple of years ago asking about the most stressful part of making and glue-up is still mine, with sharpening second! It'll have to wait for the weekend though, getting home too late this week. It's finished to 2000 grit and the guard is buffed. Handle is finished at the junction. Meanwhile on to the sheath.
 
allenkey said:
I have learned the hard way that even a built up linseed oil finish quickly fades in kitchen use. I have read alot of good things about tru-oil but haven't had the chance to try it yet myself
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How about tung oil? Is it close enough to linseed oil that it basically holds up the same way?
 
Ever seen this wood before? I haven't.
Is was sold to me as Difou. I like it, and I wish I've bought more at the time.

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Hengelo_77 said:
Ever seen this wood before? I haven't.
Is was sold to me as Difou. I like it, and I wish I've bought more at the time.

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IMG-20190819-150142.jpg
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I have lot of Iroko wood for scale which look very similar to this . . .shine like gold on sun.........I like it !
 
Three knives I finished recently, these are nowhere near in terms of fit and finish as some that are displayed here but I feel like I'm making progress:

1: 3/32" Aeb-l at 61hrc ground to +/- 0.005 before sharpening (just for fun), OAL just shy of 6''. Homemade jigging and dye job on bone (was aiming for "moss green", but ended up with more of a forest green). Color was hard to capture in picture...

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2: 1/8" thick Aeb-l at 61hrc ground to 0.015 before sharpening, OAL +/- 7 1/2". Handles are bocote with yellow fiber liner. This one went to a hunting buddy/coworker.

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And last one which I particularly like, also my first with bolsters; 3/32" thick Aeb-l at 61hrc ground to 0.010 before sharpening, OAL of 7 1/4". Brass hardware and African Blackwood scales.

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Thanks for watching :)
Gab
 
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allenkey said:
I have learned the hard way that even a built up linseed oil finish quickly fades in kitchen use. I have read alot of good things about tru-oil but haven't had the chance to try it yet myself
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I'll have to order some to try, it's not very common down here in Australia. The thing i like about linseed oil finishes is you can still feel the wood, i find plastic-y feeling handles unpleasant.
 
Alex Topfer said:
I'll have to order some to try, it's not very common down here in Australia. The thing i like about linseed oil finishes is you can still feel the wood, i find plastic-y feeling handles unpleasant.
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The last i researched this, tung oil and teak oil are all variations on linseed oil. . Makes me wonder about your experience. Right now i have a canister of tung oil. I think i need to obtain some tru-oil based on your experience and others comments (positive) re tru-oil...
 
Cushing H. said:
The last i researched this, tung oil and teak oil are all variations on linseed oil. . Makes me wonder about your experience. Right now i have a canister of tung oil. I think i need to obtain some tru-oil based on your experience and others comments (positive) re tru-oil...
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Proper tung oil is from tung nuts, but a lot is adulterated with linseed/flaxseed oil and other stuff. Likewise who knows what some linseed oil is adulterated with. For starters we know that commercial boiled linseed has chemical dryers.
On the topic, i recently got some Allback boiled linseed oil; i don't know if the finish is noticeably better, but it is a lot nicer to work with than the hardware store stuff i had been using.
 
Alex Topfer said:
I'll have to order some to try, it's not very common down here in Australia. The thing i like about linseed oil finishes is you can still feel the wood, i find plastic-y feeling handles unpleasant.
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Agreed ! I cant understand why many knife maker do that .....
 
Same here, I don't want a finish OVER my handle wood ... I want a finish IN my handle wood. Properly stabilized wood solves that in most cases.

The only time I build up a finish is on things like a saya that is being lacquered.
 
A birthday present for my wife ... who has discovered she likes using very small knives (like butter knife-sized) as dinner knives. 15n20 (from JT's first run with walnut handles. the one with the bolster was an experiment to see if she likes that better (she does, and I agree it gives a better feel to the knives). Lots of learnings for me on these: more at freehand grinding bevels, blade finish, soldering bolsters, properly peening brass pins. The edge (i.e. bevel grind) is intentionally pretty "blunt" because the use is going to be on cooked, relatively soft foods. If I do a final version of these, they will be with damascus, all have bolsters, and have a higher-end wood for handles.
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
They remind me of the "low injury risk" knives used by vision impaired and elderly people.
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they are actually pretty sharp, as I took the 15 degree bevel down to pretty much zero edge thickness. I will put the final 20 degree edge on them if needed. Mostly I wanted a robust edge/bevel to protect against banging around against other dinnerware on a tray, and to help against being used to cut on a ceramic plate
 
Gab-e said:
Three knives I finished recently, these are nowhere near in terms of fit and finish as some that are displayed here but I feel like I'm making progress:

1: 3/32" Aeb-l at 61hrc ground to +/- 0.005 before sharpening (just for fun), OAL just shy of 6''. Homemade jigging and dye job on bone (was aiming for "moss green", but ended up with more of a forest green). Color was hard to capture in picture...



2: 1/8" thick Aeb-l at 61hrc ground to 0.015 before sharpening, OAL +/- 7 1/2". Handles are bocote with yellow fiber liner. This one went to a hunting buddy/coworker.



And last one which I particularly like, also my first with bolsters; 3/32" thick Aeb-l at 61hrc ground to 0.010 before sharpening, OAL of 7 1/4". Brass hardware and African Blackwood scales.



Thanks for watching :)
Gab
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They all look nice and usable, but man, that third one with bolsters is outstanding. Nice job.
 
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