What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

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Ready to finish up in 52100, wenge and padauk with SS hardware. What do you all think about this handle style where the drop is 2 fingers back instead of further towards the front. Does this style have a name?
thanks
John Cahoon
 
Ready to finish up in 52100, wenge and padauk with SS hardware. What do you all think about this handle style where the drop is 2 fingers back instead of further towards the front. Does this style have a name?
thanks
John Cahoon

I like it alot. It looks like the radii are long enough on the tang and gradual enough where it would be comfortable hold. Looking great overall too!
 
Just finished this 235mm gyuto in differentially hardened W2 steel @ 63Rc. The handle is dyed Oregon maple burl and the saya is black & white ebony.

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There has been a lot of rain last couple of weeks, the river is bringing a lot of wood down stream. I just went out for a walk to make a break from office job and found this piece of wood (looks curly), but it is soaked. Does it pay out to try and cut it up, maybe stabilized it could be used for scales? How to proceed? Wy workshop is around 15°c but also quite moist (basement).
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i would wait a year or two for it to dry before cutting it into scales. and yes they would probably need to be stabilized.
 
Finally good enough to share.
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Kiridashi
O1 Steel .125 Inch @ 60 HRC
OAL 7 inches, Cutting edge 3 1/2 inches
Jade G10
Copper Corby's
Actually my first work.

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Harpoon style
S35VN .125 inch @ 60HRC
OAL 8 inches, Cutting edge 4 inches
Lacewood Scales
Brass Corby's
Two coats TruOil
My latest

Figuring out the ergonomics of small blades is a challenge.

Thanks for looking.

Scott
 
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i would wait a year or two for it to dry before cutting it into scales. and yes they would probably need to be stabilized.
I might split it in half and then cut one piece down the length and clean up/ seal the ends? The other one could dry as whole. I am just interested if it's so heavy because it is soaked or because there is still some good wood in there.. anybody has some other advice or is this a no go?
 
Not completely blade related, but after 9 months, I finally have a forge and anvils to use:20191124_133431.jpg

and so here's the result of 2 hours in the forge:20191124_135718.jpg
I decided to take the first few heats to warm up with a 1/2" square taper and scroll (man it feels good to move some hot metal again:D:D:D), then swapped between the bottle opener and the x-Rhea.

Looks like I have to do some product testingo_O.
 
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