What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Joined
Jul 2, 2018
Messages
277
That hamon is unbelievable! I'd love to hear about the material and process.
I've been experimenting a lot lately with hamons. I put a little furnace cement on the spine, then very thin lines down towards the edge. Then ferric chloride etch, and trying different ways to sand the "flames" to give it a smoky look. Thanks dude.
 

Ron Raducanu

Basic Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
2,163
Finished building my little forge! Now to test it on a scrap piece of steel before I try the real thing. I'm nervous...LOL.
 

Richard338

Gold Member
Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
2,084
I threw together a couple Kepharts in 3V at 60 HRC. I ordered one from CPK, but those are still in the design phase and I was impatient to test the style.
It's quite a nice design, I keep picking them up.
(first pic is from an article about the originals)
S2H2GLr.png

5SNvvNJ.jpg

CMfzzmR.jpg

Z7VDa5A.jpg
 
Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
700
Useful looking knives. No more is needed.


I threw together a couple Kepharts in 3V at 60 HRC. I ordered one from CPK, but those are still in the design phase and I was impatient to test the style.
It's quite a nice design, I keep picking them up.
(first pic is from an article about the originals)
S2H2GLr.png

5SNvvNJ.jpg

CMfzzmR.jpg

Z7VDa5A.jpg
 

Scott Hanson

Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Sep 6, 2014
Messages
4,114
I threw together a couple Kepharts in 3V at 60 HRC. I ordered one from CPK, but those are still in the design phase and I was impatient to test the style.
It's quite a nice design, I keep picking them up.
(first pic is from an article about the originals)
S2H2GLr.png

5SNvvNJ.jpg

CMfzzmR.jpg

Z7VDa5A.jpg
Very nice knives, a Kephart is on my to do list, some day I'll find the time.
 

Richard338

Gold Member
Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
2,084
Kephart's are a good, solid design that performs well.

Man they are ugly.

Don't get me wrong I'm not knocking the design or the people who like making or using them, they're just not for me.
I agree they are not the most exciting thing, but I'm enjoying them more than I expected.
Given modern steel like 3V at 60 HRC one can push the grind a bit thinner making them cut very well.
 
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
155
It's been some time since I last postet, but I've been working on some stuff, especially kitchen knives that I wanted to share. I'd like to get you fine gentlemens opinion on the overall design. I also spent quite some time on making these magnetic knife blocks you see in the pics. The magnets are inside of the wood, so the knife can rest on a flat wooden surface.

This is my aequilibrium design. Satin finished blade. Hidden tang handle construction with press fit paper micarta bolster, bronze and vulcanised fiber liners and three different beautiful pieces of stabilized wood:

Ashen leaved maple burl:
DfTFhi.jpg


Amboina burl:
rlL0Cr.jpg


karelian birch burl:
qkqJp0.jpg



This next one is my nobilis design. Full tang construction on this one and a laurel burl (laurelia sempervirens) handle:

TFR0AE.jpg


And this last one is my current favourite EDC fixed blade design, which doesn't have a cool name yet. 8,5cm (3,3 inch) recurve bowie blade and a stabilized curly koa handle. Overall length is just about 7 inches.

RacO84.jpg


Thanks for looking and let me know what you think.
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
187
I think those are fabulous. Very nice woods, clean finish and good photos too.
I’ve also been making some wooden knife stands, slotted so far, out of Bamboo. I’m thinking of trying some with the exposed blade/magnet next.
If you don’t mind me asking; what size and kind of magnets did you use?
Thanks in advance.
Scott
 

Ron Raducanu

Basic Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
2,163
Started getting my knife down to 220 grit and realized how unhappy I am with the plunge lines. They are even, but their shape bothers me. I ground them in using a small file then a chainsaw file before starting to grind the bevel with the jig I made. Won't do that again. I'll start the plunge line with the bevel grind. We'll see how that goes. Also got some new toys to play with. Set up my mini forge, got a small drill press, and a 1x30 belt grinder. Gonna try to see about getting a portable band saw and a table to set it to. Hopefully will have the knife ready for HT by the weekend.
 
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
155
I think those are fabulous. Very nice woods, clean finish and good photos too.
I’ve also been making some wooden knife stands, slotted so far, out of Bamboo. I’m thinking of trying some with the exposed blade/magnet next.
If you don’t mind me asking; what size and kind of magnets did you use?
Thanks in advance.
Scott

Thank you for the kind comment. Regarding the size of the magnets, that took some experimenting. I am using neodym disc magnets with 15mm diameter and 4mm height. The thickness of the wood between the blade and magnet is just under 3mm. This way the blade is not too sticky on the block and can be removed easily, but it also holds well enough for the blade to be secure.
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2012
Messages
4,071
It's been some time since I last postet, but I've been working on some stuff, especially kitchen knives that I wanted to share. I'd like to get you fine gentlemens opinion on the overall design. I also spent quite some time on making these magnetic knife blocks you see in the pics. The magnets are inside of the wood, so the knife can rest on a flat wooden surface.

This is my aequilibrium design. Satin finished blade. Hidden tang handle construction with press fit paper micarta bolster, bronze and vulcanised fiber liners and three different beautiful pieces of stabilized wood:

Ashen leaved maple burl:
DfTFhi.jpg


Amboina burl:
rlL0Cr.jpg


karelian birch burl:
qkqJp0.jpg



This next one is my nobilis design. Full tang construction on this one and a laurel burl (laurelia sempervirens) handle:

TFR0AE.jpg


And this last one is my current favourite EDC fixed blade design, which doesn't have a cool name yet. 8,5cm (3,3 inch) recurve bowie blade and a stabilized curly koa handle. Overall length is just about 7 inches.

RacO84.jpg


Thanks for looking and let me know what you think.
Why not taper the full tangs? It dramatically improves the visual flow in my opinion

the nobilis with laurel, the stock looks too thick for a kitchen knife. And that sweeping plunge on a kitchen knife?

clearly you have good craftsmanship skills. I think your skills would be very well executed on more traditional kitchen knife profiles.

jN4p2nx.jpg
 
Last edited:

John Cahoon

JWC Custom Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
892
  • Finally found something to do with elk tines... a Patch Knife. This ones a custom for a guy who wanted something similar to one of my larger ones with leather and elk. The remaining 3 won't have the leather, just pure tine. That's an epoxy/powdered turquoise pommel, poured into a hollowed out pith with a smaller drill hole for a deep "pin". Not tough but looks real nice. 21-19 2.jpg 21-19 3.jpg 21-19 6.jpg
 
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
155
Why not taper the full tangs? It dramatically improves the visual flow in my opinion

the nobilis with laurel, the stock looks too thick for a kitchen knife. And that sweeping plunge on a kitchen knife?

clearly you have good craftsmanship skills. I think your skills would be very well executed on more traditional kitchen knife profiles.

jN4p2nx.jpg

Thank you for the comment. Fair point about the tapered tang, but what's wrong with a sweeping plunge on a kitchen knife? The blade stock on the nobilis seems thick on the spine at the ricasso area, but the blade has a radical distal taper and a very thin flat grind, so the tip and the edge are actually quite thin (just under 0,3mm behind the edge).
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2012
Messages
4,071
Thank you for the comment. Fair point about the tapered tang, but what's wrong with a sweeping plunge on a kitchen knife? The blade stock on the nobilis seems thick on the spine at the ricasso area, but the blade has a radical distal taper and a very thin flat grind, so the tip and the edge are actually quite thin (just under 0,3mm behind the edge).
Maybe nothing.. just seems like the blade geometry there would be too thick and wedge or crack food open. I’m someone who favors ease of cutting and measure the performance by how well the knife passes through food

while it’s true most of the work is done by the forward third or half of the knife it seems like you would lose the heel portion. What’s the total length of the blade? Looks to be about a 6 inch Petty

pOjs3xO.jpg
 

DanF

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
845
It's been some time since I last postet, but I've been working on some stuff, especially kitchen knives that I wanted to share. I'd like to get you fine gentlemens opinion on the overall design. I also spent quite some time on making these magnetic knife blocks you see in the pics. The magnets are inside of the wood, so the knife can rest on a flat wooden surface.

This is my aequilibrium design. Satin finished blade. Hidden tang handle construction with press fit paper micarta bolster, bronze and vulcanised fiber liners and three different beautiful pieces of stabilized wood:

Ashen leaved maple burl:
DfTFhi.jpg


Amboina burl:
rlL0Cr.jpg


karelian birch burl:
qkqJp0.jpg



This next one is my nobilis design. Full tang construction on this one and a laurel burl (laurelia sempervirens) handle:

TFR0AE.jpg


And this last one is my current favourite EDC fixed blade design, which doesn't have a cool name yet. 8,5cm (3,3 inch) recurve bowie blade and a stabilized curly koa handle. Overall length is just about 7 inches.

RacO84.jpg


Thanks for looking and let me know what you think.
Love the bottom three, the ‘difference’, from the usual is visually appealing to me.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2015
Messages
2,463
It's been some time since I last postet, but I've been working on some stuff, especially kitchen knives that I wanted to share. I'd like to get you fine gentlemens opinion on the overall design. I also spent quite some time on making these magnetic knife blocks you see in the pics. The magnets are inside of the wood, so the knife can rest on a flat wooden surface.

This is my aequilibrium design. Satin finished blade. Hidden tang handle construction with press fit paper micarta bolster, bronze and vulcanised fiber liners and three different beautiful pieces of stabilized wood:

Ashen leaved maple burl:
DfTFhi.jpg


Amboina burl:
rlL0Cr.jpg


karelian birch burl:
qkqJp0.jpg



This next one is my nobilis design. Full tang construction on this one and a laurel burl (laurelia sempervirens) handle:

TFR0AE.jpg


And this last one is my current favourite EDC fixed blade design, which doesn't have a cool name yet. 8,5cm (3,3 inch) recurve bowie blade and a stabilized curly koa handle. Overall length is just about 7 inches.

RacO84.jpg


Thanks for looking and let me know what you think.
I think you did a nice job with them myself. Put them to good use and make necessary changes (If Needed) on the next batch. I may have missed it somewhere, but what blade steel did you go with?
 
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
155
Maybe nothing.. just seems like the blade geometry there would be too thick and wedge or crack food open. I’m someone who favors ease of cutting and measure the performance by how well the knife passes through food

while it’s true most of the work is done by the forward third or half of the knife it seems like you would lose the heel portion. What’s the total length of the blade? Looks to be about a 6 inch Petty

pOjs3xO.jpg

I get your point I did not experience the heel part just splitting up food. I believe the grind is high enough to ensure proper cutting ability with the blade geometry I've chosen and though the front part of the blade might cut slightly better, I think the difference is negligible. Thank you for your honest criticism though, I sincerely mean that.

Love the bottom three, the ‘difference’, from the usual is visually appealing to me.

Thank you very much sir.

I think you did a nice job with them myself. Put them to good use and make necessary changes (If Needed) on the next batch. I may have missed it somewhere, but what blade steel did you go with?

The blade steel on the first three is 125SC, a very clean, simple carbon steel that has served me well on kitchen knives before. It will form a patina during use, but it can take a very fine edge.
The blade steel on the last two is sandvik 14C28N, both of those last two knives are prototypes so I also wanted to try out a new steel. I have to say, I really like it so far.
 
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