What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Ron Raducanu said:
The
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The tip isn't burnt. Just a funny shadow.
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Looking good man. Great first choice for a knife design.

Little bit more time with some vertical pulls the full. Length of the knife will help clean up the finish a lot.
 
Nick-D said:
Looking good man. Great first choice for a knife design.

Little bit more time with some vertical pulls the full. Length of the knife will help clean up the finish a lot.
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Thank you!! I'm doing it all by hand, so it's taking time, LOL.
 
Richard338 said:
Watch the Nick Wheeler hand sanding YouTube video if you haven't already.
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Quick question. Now that I watched the video and am learning how it should be done (not the way I did it, LOL), would you suggest I go back to a lower grit and do the one pass at a time technique? The grit it's at right now is 600. I almost feel like I should go back to 320 to fix it. Thoughts?
 
If you go through the grits too quickly, then you have a polished surface that you are reluctant to spoil, but upon changing directions and close inspection under light or a photo, you will see residual scratches.
It is much faster to drop down and get a truly smooth surface to a lower grit and then come back up, than to stubbornly continue with the higher grit.
I have the Rhynowet red paper. I will often start at 120 grit and go until there are no other scratches. I use a hard backing and clamp my piece along a board.
This part takes the longest thanks to my love of 36 grit belts.
Going to 180, 320, 600 and beyond is relatively quick after that.
 
Richard338 said:
If you go through the grits too quickly, then you have a polished surface that you are reluctant to spoil, but upon changing directions and close inspection under light or a photo, you will see residual scratches.
It is much faster to drop down and get a truly smooth surface to a lower grit and then come back up, than to stubbornly continue with the higher grit.
I have the Rhynowet red paper. I will often start at 120 grit and go until there are no other scratches. I use a hard backing and clamp my piece along a board.
This part takes the longest thanks to my love of 36 grit belts.
Going to 180, 320, 600 and beyond is relatively quick after that.
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Thank you for the feedback. I prefer to go back and learn the proper way, than to spin my wheels and end up with something I'm not happy with. I'm horribly OCD, so your advice is very helpful to me. I appreciate it very much!
 
Cushing H. said:
That happened to me once... and I just re profiled the edge to have more curvature towards the handle,creating a continuous curve. I think Stacy has said he does the same thing?
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Been There, done that... But in this case what you see is about 1/2" less width after many trials, at this point I decided it wasn't worth extra time. I used it this weekend, its razor sharp, will be used, but not by a customer...

Pablo
 
Cushing H. said:
That happened to me once... and I just re profiled the edge to have more curvature towards the handle,creating a continuous curve. I think Stacy has said he does the same thing?
Click to expand...

Been There, done that... But in this case what you see is about 1/2" less width after many trials, at this point I decided it wasn't worth extra time. I used it this weekend, its razor sharp, will be used, but not by a customer...

Pablo
 
Ron Raducanu said:
Quick question. Now that I watched the video and am learning how it should be done (not the way I did it, LOL), would you suggest I go back to a lower grit and do the one pass at a time technique? The grit it's at right now is 600. I almost feel like I should go back to 320 to fix it. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Leave it as-is, and you'll have a pretty decent first knife. Clean up the finish, and you'll have a really good-looking first knife.

-Tyson
 
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