Whats the best general purpose blade shape

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Oct 20, 2003
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Of all the blade shapes out there, whats the best for every day use? While im at it, does anyone know why you would use a tanto, or a recurve? And one last question which is the easiest to sharpen? Which is the hardest? ( wait thats 2 questions) but im sure no one minds. Thanks guys.
 
IMO, the best general purpose blade is a spearpoint.
Drop points are second.

Recurves provide extra cutting power. As the blade is drawn over the material, the belly is pushed deeper into the material due to its position relative to the back portion of the blade. The downside is that recurves are slightly more difficult to sharpen on a flat stone.

I can't think of a good reason to use a tanto instead of any other blade, really. If you need a straight flat utility edge, get a wharncliffe or a sheepsfoot. If you need a slicer, get a blade with belly.

Drop points, clip points, spearpoints, and other curved blades are all sharpened the same way, and it's not more difficult to sharpen one than another. These are the easiest to sharpen, IMO.
Wharncliffes and tantos are also very easy to sharpen, you just have to make sure you keep the motion in a straight line, since the edges are straight.

Hope this helps.
 
I don't know about the sharpening, but for me the most useful blade shape is the drop point.
 
Most probably prefer a clip, or modified clip point. I personally prefer a Spear or Wharncliff as my favorites but the modified clip blade with a slightly dropped point like you see on a Sebenza blade is a pretty favorable blade for a lot of jobs. This style seems to work a lot better for food prep jobs and field dressing type work on small game over a spear or Wharny shape, but the general utility shape and flat edge of the Wharncliff make it a pretty good choice for a lot of jobs other than food prep or field dressing chores.
STR
 
Dr sharp said:
Of all the blade shapes out there, whats the best for every day use? While im at it, does anyone know why you would use a tanto, or a recurve? And one last question which is the easiest to sharpen? Which is the hardest? ( wait thats 2 questions) but im sure no one minds. Thanks guys.

Leaf-shaped blades, like the Spyderco Endura or Manix, are my favorite for EDC and general purpose use. They look like wharncliffe blades, but modified to have just a bit of edge curve to bring the point up a bit.

Why do I like this shape? First, the point is always incredibly sharp, and having a really sharp point is useful in a zillion scenarios. And the point is low, which means more controllable than typical droppoint or spearpoint or clippoint. Again, a good controllable point is great for EDC uses. Next, the edge is mostly straight, which also comes in really useful ... I find very few jobs where a blade belly is an advantage, it more gets in the way. And in those jobs where you would use a blade belly, on a leaf shape you just use the straight edge nearest the point, which is so controllable that it works great.

There are many specific jobs where leaf blades work best, IMO. I love leaf blades for opening those hard plastic clamshell packs, for instance. First, you want the needle-sharp, highly-controllable point to insert the blade without inserting too far and cutting the item. Next, using the relatively straight edge to push-cut through the plastic is easier and more controllable than dragging the curved edge of a spear/drop/clip-point.

For years I used to think a drop point or clip point were my fave EDCs, until I realized why the endura and Calypso Jr kept sneaking back into my pocket!

Joe
 
I'm with Joe on this one. Leaf blades, such as used in the Manix, are awesome. They are very easy to maintain, and almost always useful. The point is not too pointy, but pointy enough for all but the most precise work. Lots of straight area. Perfect for full flat grinds, which I love.

The fine line between drop point and leaf gets a bit blurred sometimes though. But they have a lot in common.
 
Leaf shape in all of its forms and sizes. It's no coincidence why the Dragonfly, Caly Jr., Lil'T, and Manix (listed by Leaf shape blade size) all count among my favorite designs.
 
Agreed here as well. My Spydie Meerkat is my "goto" knife for clam paks. Other things - drop point/spear point have been the handiest during the week. Wharnies are great for opening boxes - that's going to be the fate of my new Spydie Centofante 4 for the first little bit. Guess it's a good reason to carry multiple blades:D

- gord
 
I like a really pointy point, and alot of belly, so my favorite is the blade shape of thje Kershaw 1415 and 1416. I'm not sure which category it fits into but It's a great shape for the kind of work I do.
 
puukkoman said:
IMO, the best general purpose blade is a spearpoint.
Drop points are second.

Recurves provide extra cutting power. As the blade is drawn over the material, the belly is pushed deeper into the material due to its position relative to the back portion of the blade. The downside is that recurves are slightly more difficult to sharpen on a flat stone.

I can't think of a good reason to use a tanto instead of any other blade, really. If you need a straight flat utility edge, get a wharncliffe or a sheepsfoot. If you need a slicer, get a blade with belly.

Drop points, clip points, spearpoints, and other curved blades are all sharpened the same way, and it's not more difficult to sharpen one than another. These are the easiest to sharpen, IMO.
Wharncliffes and tantos are also very easy to sharpen, you just have to make sure you keep the motion in a straight line, since the edges are straight.

Hope this helps.

I aggree. The spear & drop point have an extremly strong point. One of the stoutest designs IMO.
 
I am not as experienced with knives as a lot of people here, but I have found that I really like having a recurve, and have never wished I didn't have it.

So I feel the most useful overall bladeshape is a drop point with a slight recurve.

I like all bladeshapes for their pros and cons, but when I am at work, I find that a recurve makes it so I don't have to work as hard at cutting hard plastic bundle straps (less force needed, and less wrist movement).

Edit: I also have a slight preference for oallow grinds versus flat grinds and plain edges versus combo or fully serrated edges.
 
I like drop-points and spear-points. I am not sure if they are the most "useful", but they work for me...
 
I am a big fan of the clip-point, but drop-points are very nice too.

Actually, the only designs that don't like are the tanto and the hawkbill.
 
allenC said:
Actually, the only designs that don't like are the tanto and the hawkbill.

They all have their place. Mind you, general EDC utility isn't usually it. I have a short, thick, hollow ground tanto FB that is basically a (lightly) sharpened prybar. It's my favourite FB and sees the most carry and use. I used the dull secondary edge (tip) to scrape metal for a better ground. Wouldn't have wanted to do that with a drop point. Perfect supplement for a thinly ground folder.

I also gave my old man a Harpy for his boating needs. Would make an interresting EDC, to say the least. But for thick synthetic (poly) rope? NOTHING better.

Everything has it's use. Most grinds are compromises. A flat ground drop point is most useful in my opinion. Wharny's and hawkbill's work great when the whole cut can be accomplished with one pass. But with a hawkbill, for example, it's all or nothing. It can make the cut or it can't. No making a dent and continuing on the next slice. That's where shapes that allow the material to slip off the end is needed. A recurve tries to be the best at both worlds. Allows it to slip, but continues to go deeper as it does.

Anyway, I could write pages about the pros/cons of each shape, but it comes down to the task at hand. A Ferrari is the worst car possible when you have to bring 4 other people and get good gas mileage. A 4 cylinder minivan is the worst car possible when trying to weave through traffic to get to work on time.

Everything is a compromise of the available specialized shapes.

PS: then there's Nightmare grinds, which take the compromise concept to a whole new level, but that's another story...
 
Can anyone suggest a place or a way to see pictures, or drawings of ALL bladeshapes at one time. Sort of chart like. ??? It would really be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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