Whats the purpose of a smooth sharpening steel?

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steve4570

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Sep 18, 2007
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Hello, I picked up a Green River smooth sharpening steel at a thrift store for$2.00 I figured what the heck Id try it, it really doesnt do much compared to my regular grooved steel. Is it like a fine steel to be used after a regular steel or is it used differently. Thanks, Steve G.
 
It's to realign the edge as opposed to removing metal and rehoning the blade.

(Think of the edge being moved off center through usage and being realigned with the smooth steel.)
 
Thanks Blues, would it be proper procedure to use the smooth steel first to straighten the edge and then sharpen with stone or steel?
 
I'm sure you'll get other and better opinions but I only use the smooth steel in the following ways:

1. In between sharpenings (on kitchen knives generally). This may bring back an edge without having to resharpen if it isn't too far gone.

2. Sometimes after a sharpening session as a final step (kind of like stropping can be utilized) with a very light touch.
 
A smooth steel simply realigns the edge which gets "out of line" with use.:thumbup:

A grooved steel realigns the edge and also removes some steel from the blade. It acts like a fine grade metal file. You can readily see this by wiping a used grooved steel with a white paper towel. The stain you see was once the edge of your knife!!!:thumbdn:
 
steve4570 said:
Thanks Blues, would it be proper procedure to use the smooth steel first to straighten the edge and then sharpen with stone or steel?
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The problem with steels of any sort is that if the metal behind the edge has bent, and, even more so, been bent back, that metal has been weakened. Part of the advantage, therefore, of using a stone as opposed to a steel is that it will remove some or all of that weakened metal in the process of attaining a new edge. So no, don't use a steel before you sharpen, and I wouldn't use it after, either, but I can see why one would.
 
Lucky Bob said:
...if the metal behind the edge has bent, and, even more so, been bent back, that metal has been weakened...
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Agreed, BUT, it does not necessarily mean support for the edge is too weak to do the job. I use a steel on my kitchen knives (sometimes for weeks) to realign the edges until they no longer cut satisfactorily, THEN I go to the stones. For me, each meal prep is not delicate surgery requiring a new scalpel for every cut. Why grind away steel prematurely.
 
Good point, Zeasor. That's the why and wherefore of how I use my steel in the kitchen.
(Though I often just give a lick or two on a fine ceramic rod that I keep in the drawer from an old Sharpmaker I've parted out.)
 
Using an incorrect steel will dull a sharp knife. Many folks still do not know this. A chef I know, steeled his custom cooking knife on a standard steel and dulled his knife. He blamed the knife!!
 
I worked in a meat packing plant for 20 years and all our steels were smooth. Grooved ones would be a step backwards and actually remove the fine edge you sharpened it to.
 
RP, said it. You want that steel to be as smooth as glass! That is "correct" steel.
 
Honing steels were developed during an era when knives were made from relatively low carbon non stainless steel. When you steeled those soft alloy edge you not only lined them back up you also work hardened them. Back then steels made a lot of sense, nowadays not so much.

If you take a Sabatier Au Carbone knife made with something like a 1084 alloy blade it responds quite well to a steel. If you take a harder 1095 alloy knife it is a little less responsive and gets a tad bit more brittle as you steel (not much of a problem if you are cutting meat or working on a soft cutting board). With a cheap stainless steel blade you can still stretch out your working time if you steel occasionally. A hard stainless should only be steeled with a smooth rod and very lightly.

In general you should only steel very lightly or you will break the edge down faster than if you used an abrasive hone.
 
Lycosa said:
RP, said it. You want that steel to be as smooth as glass! That is "correct" steel.
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There is something new and better. Hand American Borosilicate (glass with boron) steels available at JKS. They are microgrooved and the experience is that they work equally well on German soft steels and Japanese hard steels. Caveat: Use VERY light pressure.

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Buzz
 
Looks like you made that fella cry after giving him a whuppin' with that steel! ;)
 
Lycosa said:
Buzzard---Thanks for the post! I'll check out those steels.
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Do that. You won't be sorry. I should clarify something. Looking at the last of the four pix I posted you can see that it is clear. That particular boro rod was glass smooth on opposing quarters and microgrooved on the other two opposing quarters. The ones made today are microgrooved all the way around. The smooth sides on the pictured rod work the same as the glass smooth steel steels. That is, they work great for realigning edges on the rolled softer steels. Japanese knives are not very prone to edge rolling, they'll usually chip or merely dull first. The microgrooves seem to carry out the dual roll of both realigning and very slightly honing (like a ceramic rod). This is (my opinion, nothing more) why they work on both hard and soft steels. So far it has worked well on HRc 62-63 Hitachi Blue Super and Hitachi White but I have not yet tried it on harder steels like SG-2, Cowry-X, ZDP-189 etc.

I have gotten into the habit of applying the microgrooves before nearly every use of my Japanese blades. It only takes about three very light strokes on each side and the edge comes back to about 90%. Once this quits working the metal is fatigued (again, just my opinion) and it's back to the stones.

There are others who have more expertice but this has been my experience.

Buzz
 
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