Where to get iron wedge for axe handle?

M

Molly Hatchet

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Dec 17, 2013
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Does anyone know of a good online source to order some iron wedges for securing the wooden wedge in the head of the handle of an axe when you replace the handle? I'd like to have some extras on hand, rather than hoping any new handle I buy will always come with one. I have seen circular-shaped "wedges", like in the top of Husqvarna axes, and I really like those. Are those available for purchase anywhere? Or an online dealer that offers various sizes would be great too. Thanks in advance.
 
Metal wedges are often used after the fact and when a head comes loose, only because replacing/withdrawing the original wood wedge is out of the question as is trying to pound in another one beside it. If you're re-hafting (ie the handle is not yet on the head) it's convention to use a wood wedge, better fit, nicer looking and easier to trim the haft after fitting. If wedging in 2 directions appeals to you then cut a slot perpendicular to the main groove and tap narrow pieces in after the main wedge is in place. None of this is rocket science!
I suspect that the round wedges that are becoming more common on new axes are installed as an additional precaution/insurance against heads coming loose during whatever warranty period there is. A proper hang really shouldn't need one.
 
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House Handle sells wedge kits as well. I usually add one or two extra when I place an order. Hit up the Google ;)
 
Steve Tall said:
The wedge-shaped wedges are commonly found at hardware stores. The round type (in several sizes) can be found online by searching for "round metal safety wedges".

That said, there is disagreement over the use of metal wedges in axe handles:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/895331-To-Metal-wedge-or-not-to-metal-wedge-That-Is-The-Question
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve! Interesting thread. Myself have never gone with softwood wedges only because I can really pound on hardwood wedges to set them. And I don't chop enough anymore to be able to conduct some sort of long term intensive comparison. I did find a source (Home Hardware; Canada) last year for novel metal wedges with a large protruding nail-type head. These to me would be the cat's meow for emergency repair in the field because they can be removed when you get home and are then better able to remove the haft and re-wedge without damaging anything.
 
i agree that the metal wedge is unnecessary. i have never needed to use the metal wedges in any of my ax jobs, but have used them on same hammers though. in my personal opinion, there is absolutely no reason or need to "lock" the wooden wedge in with a metal wedge if the wooden wedge was driven properly.

more importantly, i feel very strongly that one should not split the grain of the hickory handle. the whole idea is to keep as much wood and grain intact in a striking tool handle as possible.

that last point is why i also advise people NOT to double wedge with wooden wedges also, such as 300 explained, where you cut two perpendicular kerfs, pound in the main wedge, then pound in smaller sliver wedges into the "cross" kerf. with a tapered eye of an ax, there is no reason to need to create a wedge action in the long axis of the eye... and like the metal wedges, you are splitting the "intact" grain that should be running the entire length of the handle(hopefully)

the round metal wedges you see on striking tools today are used in machine pressed hammers and axes, where the head is hydraulically seated and wedged. the round wedge is insurance for the fact that the handles are not being fit by someone spending time to insure a proper fit. they are also used on hammer type striking tools, simply because the eye is so small. the round wedge gives a good wedge action in such a small amount of wood/surface area.

moral of the story, IMO, dont fix what isnt broken. a properly driven softwood OR hardwood wedge will be completely sufficient to out last the rest of the handle in use.
 
Twoinch said:
the round metal wedges you see on striking tools today are used in machine pressed hammers and axes, where the head is hydraulically seated and wedged. the round wedge is insurance for the fact that the handles are not being fit by someone spending time to insure a proper fit. they are also used on hammer type striking tools, simply because the eye is so small. the round wedge gives a good wedge action in such a small amount of wood/surface area.
moral of the story, IMO, dont fix what isnt broken. a properly driven softwood OR hardwood wedge will be completely sufficient to out last the rest of the handle in use.
Click to expand...
I entirely like and support this thesis. Given that ideal grain is supposed to be plumb then smacking in a horizontal wedge is only going to be to the detriment/integrity of the handle.
 
Thanks for all of the responses so far. I appreciate it (both pointers on where to find the wedges, as well as the discussion about whether the extra metal wedge is necessary). The information is quite helpful.

After reading some of these perspectives, it leads me to ask another, more specific question.

The main tool I had in mind when asking the original question was a splitting maul. It's an older maul head that I restored and put a new handle on it. The eye of this maul is the smaller oval eye shape, rather than the thin, elongated oval that you see on axes. So, as some of you have referenced, it has a smaller eye. So it makes me ask--would this scenario with the smaller eye on my splitting maul warrant a round metal safety wedge since there is a relatively smaller amount of wood/surface area at the top of the eye?

And another question, since some of you have specified that it is more common to see these round metal safety wedges used on hammer-type striking tools (and tools that specifically have smaller eyes)--my Husqvarna "traditional/multi-purpose" axe came fitted with one of these round metal safety wedges even though it already has what appears to be a very well-seated wooden wedge that fills the eye very well, etc. Is this likely a "cover your a$$" move by Husqvarna, or is it necessary on that particular axe for some reason?
 
If those metal wedges are already in there and the head is not loose then enjoy what you've got. I've never re-hafted a maul but done many sledge hammers over the years and a single 'woodie' in them has never done me any harm. I used to re-new wooden sledge hafts (and lots of rakes/shovels/axes) for a major landscaping company years ago and they mostly broke from abuse and accidents long before the handles came loose.
When your baby is re-hung good and tight stand it up straight and keep pouring oil (never bothered me what about what type) over the eye over a period of days until the wood won't soak up any more. Fills/swells the wood air/water passages and ensures that there is nothing left to dry out and shrink.
But do keep a steel wedge in the ash tray of the car/truck or in a job toolbox in the rare event that a head does somehow work loose.
 
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