Where to Get Replacement Axe Handles

M

me2

Joined
Oct 11, 2003
Messages
5,078
I have a couple of old axes from my grandfather when he passed. The recent hurricane made it clear they need some new handles. One is a fairly light double bit and the other is a fairly robust single bit. I’d guess 2.5 and 3.5 lbs respectively. The double bit has the most secure handle of the two and served to clean up some trees that fell in the driveway. It was a little risky as the head moves about 1/8” up and down the handle during use.

Looking locally I can’t seem to find a replacement handle that fits the double bit. I don’t know much about axes so it’s possible they’re sitting there but I don’t know it.

Some axe re-hafting instructions might not be bad either. Just saying.
 
me2 said:
I have a couple of old axes from my grandfather when he passed. The recent hurricane made it clear they need some new handles. One is a fairly light double bit and the other is a fairly robust single bit. I’d guess 2.5 and 3.5 lbs respectively. The double bit has the most secure handle of the two and served to clean up some trees that fell in the driveway. It was a little risky as the head moves about 1/8” up and down the handle during use.

Looking locally I can’t seem to find a replacement handle that fits the double bit. I don’t know much about axes so it’s possible they’re sitting there but I don’t know it.

Some axe re-hafting instructions might not be bad either. Just saying
Click to expand...

Most of the time a loose handle does not mean a need for a new haft. Take some pics so we can see the state of handles and if there is enough shoulder left to drop a head a bit when re-wedging.

Handle%20Info.jpg
 
In a pinch, hardware store handles can be seviceable. You will have to sort through them of course to find the best combination of grain, straightness and wedge slot. Often there aren’t any you’d want. I have a habit of looking whenever I go, and if I spot a good one I’ll buy it for the stash. They will probably have a clear coat on them which you’ll want to sand off if you will be using them bare-handed, but with gloves I’ve found it tolerable.
 
House if you want cheap and don't need it fast--their prices and customer service are great but their QC is awful. Even if picking the "hand picked" option you have something like a 20% or more chance of getting a lemon. If you do, drop them an email and they'll send you replacements free and you get to keep the bad one...but that's where the delays come from. If you have the time to deal with the potential QC issues, House basically gives the general public better than wholesale prices from other sources.

For quality Whiskey River is top notch both in dimensions and overall quality. The downside is that they're often out of some models because demand exceeds supply for now.
 
crbnSteeladdict said:
Most of the time a loose handle does not mean a need for a new haft. Take some pics so we can see the state of handles and if there is enough shoulder left to drop a head a bit when re-wedging.

Handle%20Info.jpg
Click to expand...
I don’t have a good way to take pictures. There is a fair bit of the wood still sticking out of the top when the head is reseated to the shoulder. It has some screws in the top spreading it out and holding the head mostly in place. I’m sure the shoulders have never moved and the head never rewedged. Could I drop the shoulder a bit and get down past the new end and rewedge it?
 
me2 said:
I don’t have a good way to take pictures. There is a fair bit of the wood still sticking out of the top when the head is reseated to the shoulder. It has some screws in the top spreading it out and holding the head mostly in place. I’m sure the shoulders have never moved and the head never rewedged. Could I drop the shoulder a bit and get down past the new end and rewedge it?
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan. Nothing to loose. Most of the time old handle trumps modern stuff. Pull all the metal. Shave off some of the shoulder for tighter fit @ the bottom of the eye, Make your own new wedge from wood slightly softer than hickory. No need for any metal wedges. just wooden wedge is sufficient. If you search this forum there are step by step tutorials about removing old wedges and rehanging an axe
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/walters-axe-with-knob-end-handle-wip-pic-heavy.1535911/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/what-did-you-rehang-today.1064461/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/cots-project-thread.1233816/page-6
 
Last edited:
In fact, if you need to tighten up the fit after rewedging (I suggest leaving the wedge long for a couple days after driving it to knock it a little further in once the wood slackens) then you can drill a pilot hole and smack a dowel wedge into it to do the same job as a steel barrel wedge but without any metal needed.
 
I've had good luck with Council Tool and Beaver-tooth. I somewhat prefer the palm swell of the Beaver hafts.
 
A quick review of the two axes shows I’ll probably need new handles for both. The single bit has a straight handle, which I like but it doesn’t really matter as I haven’t used an axe enough to have a preference. The handle is damaged however and is warped sideways. I think this would be called runout? It also isn’t a tight fit, as the head has moved about 3/16” away from the original location.

The double bit had two screws and a steel wedge holding it in place. Once the screws were removed, it has more play but won’t come off. There is plenty of shoulder left but it is smaller than the eye of the axe head in the long direction. It doesn’t look like there is enough left of the proper size to get a good fit.

I’ll probably order from Whiskey River. I need to do some studying on how to rehang an axe. Once it’s done I think the single bit in particular will be a great cutter. It’s a long wide blade that’s fairly thin and noticeably heavier than the double bit. I’ll try the single bit first.

The double bit is light enough I think I could use a shorter handle and maybe use it with one hand. Is that something people do?
 
me2 said:
A quick review of the two axes shows I’ll probably need new handles for both. The single bit has a straight handle, which I like but it doesn’t really matter as I haven’t used an axe enough to have a preference. The handle is damaged however and is warped sideways. I think this would be called runout? It also isn’t a tight fit, as the head has moved about 3/16” away from the original location.

The double bit had two screws and a steel wedge holding it in place. Once the screws were removed, it has more play but won’t come off. There is plenty of shoulder left but it is smaller than the eye of the axe head in the long direction. It doesn’t look like there is enough left of the proper size to get a good fit.

I’ll probably order from Whiskey River. I need to do some studying on how to rehang an axe. Once it’s done I think the single bit in particular will be a great cutter. It’s a long wide blade that’s fairly thin and noticeably heavier than the double bit. I’ll try the single bit first.

The double bit is light enough I think I could use a shorter handle and maybe use it with one hand. Is that something people do?
Click to expand...
Runout is the run of the grain going outside the borders of the handle. A warped handle can be fixed with a little steam and a C clamp.

Usually full sized double bits are not used one-handed; only saddle axes would be.
 
I went out and gave it a few one handed swings with a choked up grip. It’s a little too heavy for that so it will get a full sized replacement handle.
 
me2 said:
I went out and gave it a few one handed swings with a choked up grip. It’s a little too heavy for that so it will get a full sized replacement hand
Click to expand...
1. You can screw couple screws half way into the wooden wedge and use pliers or crowbar to pull out the wooden wedge.
2. It could be worn double bit or 2 1/2 lbs Cruiser axe. If second, than it has smaller than regular eye. Consequently. you will need 28 inch cruiser replacement handle
 
It is indeed a cruiser pattern with a smaller eye. The single bit appears to be a Jersey with the pointed lugs?

I’m going to try to save the cruiser handle. There is plenty of wood above the shoulder. I just need to get the head off. To do that I need to figure out a way around the steel wedge that’s in there. There’s no sign of a wooden wedge. At least not that I can see.
 
me2 said:
It is indeed a cruiser pattern with a smaller eye. The single bit appears to be a Jersey with the pointed lugs?

I’m going to try to save the cruiser handle. There is plenty of wood above the shoulder. I just need to get the head off. To do that I need to figure out a way around the steel wedge that’s in there. There’s no sign of a wooden wedge. At least not that I can see.
Click to expand...
Drill couple holes in it and screw in some screws or if it is aluminum wedge than self tapping screws might do the trick
 
Yeah some small pilot holes and some self tapping screws usually work pretty well to give ya' something to get a claw hammer on for pulling.
 
No, it’s a small steel wedge that runs 90 degrees to that and nearly in the center of the eye.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top