Which is better, vertical or horizontal quench?

R

R.C.Reichert

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Jul 26, 2008
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Which method of quenching is less likely to warp a blade. I've been quenching my blades horizontally with an edge quench, but is quenching into a vertical quench tank any better or less likely to warp a blade?

Thanks!
 
I'm no metallurgist but I would think horizontal. My thought would be the difference of cooling the knife from the edge to the spine instead of cooling the knife from the tip to the handle. I would think it would give you a more consistent grain along the length as the entire edge hitting the quench at the same time vs the tip being quenched first and working toward the handle.

That's just a theory as I visualize it mentally and could be wrong, but I would think horizontal the better if you're capable. I'm sure the more knowledgeable will chime in, but as I said that's my theory based on my collective knowledge of how some stuff works.

I'll be interested in what the pros have to say.
 
I would say vertical. You are going to quench from edge to spine with any single edge blade because the spine is thicker. What you want to do is agitate back and forth from spine to edge, not side to side.
 
If the material internal structure is stressed and no attempt to normalize that condition has been addressed it may warp with either quench process. I've had equal success with both processes, but I do 90% vertical based on my quench tank set up and blade design.
 
Vertical - The cross section entering the quenchant is many times smaller on a vertical quench that horizontal. It is also symmetrical. Both those reasons reduce warp.
 
I like vertical, and from reading other folks it does seem that vertical is the preferred method. Horizontal is required when doing an edge quench. Also, using vertical you don't have to worry about having quench tank oriented north 'n South {g}
 
Ohhh....now THAT'S why my my blades sometimes warp...because my quench tank is oriented east to west, LOL. :rolleyes::D

Anyways, thanks for the replies! I'm going to give verticle quenching a try.
 
A lot of the steel I buy...usually 1080/80crv/1084... comes in long bars that already have a significant amount of pre-existing "bend" to them. I do bend the bars straight before I use them, but I can't help but feel this has something to do with some of the the warpage. It's almost like the steel has it's natural pre-determined position it wants to rest. They always warp in the direction of that original bend.
 
I think vertical is the "preferred" method because it's easy and takes less fluid than an effective horizontal tank.
The only thing I quench vertically is a dagger, for obvious reasons.
I want my entire cutting edge to hit the oil at the same time. Far more consistent results.
 
Because even though you get bars, those bars were cut from sheets that were flattened from coils.


R.C.Reichert said:
A lot of the steel I buy...usually 1080/80crv/1084... comes in long bars that already have a significant amount of pre-existing "bend" to them. I do bend the bars straight before I use them, but I can't help but feel this has something to do with some of the the warpage. It's almost like the steel has it's natural pre-determined position it wants to rest. They always warp in the direction of that original bend.
Click to expand...
 
I feel all blades should be normalized before HT. Many folks say that stock reduction knives don't need it ... but those straight bars you ground from used to be curved.
 
What about vapor jacket ? It is same when vertical or horizontal quench ? Vertically quenched blade will have a constant hardness at all length ?

29zy1xg.jpg
 
Vapor jacket ? That you don't want as it changes the hardenability .Agitating by hand or with a pump should be standard practice. By hand - spine to edge not side to side . or tip to tang. A quenching tube can be used with a pump moving quenchant up
NEVER quench blade flat !! That's s sure way to warp.
Stresses in the blade [from coiled steel etc] will follow you to the end product ! Take them out by normalizing or a sub-critical anneal [1200 F for two hours]
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I feel all blades should be normalized before HT. Many folks say that stock reduction knives don't need it ... but those straight bars you ground from used to be curved.
Click to expand...


I currently do stock removal only. I took your advice with this and normalized two of my large camp knives before the final quenching heat.They both turned out great! No warping whatsoever. What I did realize though is that I need a larger quench tank. After the second blade was finished in the quench, my oil temperature was at 180° lol.

Thanks for the advice!

Randy
 
Hey... that's the pic from my vapor jacket video!... lol.
I mostly quench horizontal with spine up. I do have a few vertical tanks as well, when needed. I have 5 quench tanks, altogether. 5gal Fast oil, 5gal slow oil, 5gal vertical med oil, a 2gal tank for small stuff and a brine bucket. I should probably mention the water bucket... because some stuff gets quenched in there, too.... so, 6 quench tanks!
 
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