Which Stainless Steel?

ColsonCustoms

ColsonCustoms

Joined
Oct 19, 2015
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I have been working with strictly carbon steels for a while now. I'm interested in getting into stainless for kitchen knives and maybe a few smaller neck knives or maybe a bushcraft / camp / hunting knife if a customer is interested in stainless. Mainly will be for cutlery though. I have almost no knowledge on stainless, especially regarding characteristics needed for a long, thin blade with a super fine grind. I really value toughness over hardness for the most part.
So far, AEB-L seems like it might be one of the better choices? Are 154-CM / CPM 154 worth looking into? I am aware that 440C can make a good blade, but I am not interested in using that steel if I can help it. Based solely on how many people view "cheaper" steels (not that it necessarily is). I will be sending the blades off for heat treating. Thanks for any info
 
AEB-L is the way to go, after extensive testing I'm using it for most of my knives.
 
I'm really impressed with the Elmax blades with Peters HT that I've been working with.

Daniel, what do you believe are the ideals and limits of AEB-L? I'm asking in regards to fixed blade size and usage primarily.
 
In the past, the problem with AEB-L was that it was only available in thin stock, People really started taking notice outside of the kitchen knife world when we first got 188 stock and now with sizes up to .196, we have a lot more options. It's not really super cheap steel, but it is simple and very clean.
 
That word has multiple meaning. Cutlery often refers specifically to blades associated with food, and it's what I use to to describe those knives. Most people understand the distinction when used in that way.
 
for me its XHP hands down made in the usa powdered steel that i run at 63rc for kitchen knives im sure elmax and abel are ok as well. i used to use cpm154 before crucible got inn trouble and i coudl not get it any more (now that i use XHP i see no need in going back to it) since its back in production its also a good option
i try to work in powdered steels when i can get the alloy i want in PM HT is nicer grinds nicer finished nicer and in the long run even tho it cost a bit more up front i feel time saved and performance advantage are well worth it
 
pain is the realization that you put half your pricy steel in the scrap bucket and then you remember that steel is one of the cheapest parts of the knife build. get the good stuff what ever is best for the type of knife you are making (and HT it right)
 
I agree, I never skimp on steel as it is what really makes the knife.

It's the details that matter, I spend more money and time getting my framelock parts flat than I do profiling or grinding the blade! Sandpaper and belts cost me more than even the pricier steels when it comes to breaking down my costs.

Don't discount a steel just because it is inexpensive either! One of my friends who is a full time chef (and part time knifemaker) told me in three years he has never done more than strop his 15n20 Chef's knife that I made him and the steel cost almost nothing. 5160 is another one that comes to mind, I've made hundreds of knives from both 5160 which is cheap and S7 which is on the pricier side... in actual performance both are just incredible as far as toughness goes.

I heat treat lots of coupons and test knives... tweaking your heat treat to make the steel work best often costs more than the steel and is well worth it.

I think AEB-L is going to take off once it gets in enough peoples hands. It just became available in sizes thick enough for framelocks and hunters. I test the heck out of everything I use and it is beyond impressive.

Butch I really like the CTS-XHP too, I haven't used enough yet to say but it is testing out to be impressive stuff! It's showing great wear resistance with no tendency to chip.
 
I really like 15n20 for kitchen blades. Only reason I am looking into stainless over 15n20 is the reactivity. Had good luck with 5160 for large choppers as well. Picked up some 80CRV2 to maybe replace it down the road. The AEB-L seems pretty awesome from what I have read. I am slightly confused about the hardness though. 60-62 rc seems really high for .07% carbon. Again, my knowledge of stainless is very limited. Does the higher temp quench cause this perhaps?
 
ColsonCustoms said:
I really like 15n20 for kitchen blades. Only reason I am looking into stainless over 15n20 is the reactivity. Had good luck with 5160 for large choppers as well. Picked up some 80CRV2 to maybe replace it down the road. The AEB-L seems pretty awesome from what I have read. I am slightly confused about the hardness though. 60-62 rc seems really high for .07% carbon. Again, my knowledge of stainless is very limited. Does the higher temp quench cause this perhaps?
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I did a test a while back. Using higher austentizing temps (1995), I got Rc61/62 without subzero. With 1975 austentize and subzero, I get Rc64, and temper to Rc62. My experience is use both 15n20 and aeb-l at Rc62. Aeb-l has just enough chromium to be stainless without getting the large carbides present in other steels. It performs like a carbon steel, while being stainless.
 
butcher_block said:
pain is the realization that you put half your pricy steel in the scrap bucket and then you remember that steel is one of the cheapest parts of the knife build. get the good stuff what ever is best for the type of knife you are making (and HT it right)
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Amen Butch!! My opinion is that you should use the best steel you can get for your knives because why invest your time and hard work in cheap steel? If you want to save money then read the forum info on where to get good deals on wood , leather, and steel but always buy the best materials if you want consistent professional results. Larry


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LARRYZ10 said:
Amen Butch!! My opinion is that you should use the best steel you can get for your knives because why invest your time and hard work in cheap steel? If you want to save money then read the forum info on where to get good deals on wood , leather, and steel but always buy the best materials if you want consistent professional results. Larry


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at the end of the day the thing that cost the most is time put into the finished knife cause you had better be charging for all the sub parts of it.

i want to add when starting out please dont try to put lipstick on the pig as they say. learn the ropes and get nice knives with fit and finish then add to the product with better woods and fancy dammy blades
 
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Daniel Fairly Knives said:
I agree, I never skimp on steel as it is what really makes the knife.
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As a customer I think it does and yet I know that it shouldn't. I know that the blade is the COMBINATON of steel + geometry + heat treat. But on the other hand I always consider the steel when thinking about a purchase. I read good things about AEB-L and Elmax and that makes me want to buy them, but I don't doubt that a good implementation of 440C or 154 could probably fool me.
 
bdmicarta said:
As a customer I think it does and yet I know that it shouldn't. I know that the blade is the COMBINATON of steel + geometry + heat treat. But on the other hand I always consider the steel when thinking about a purchase. I read good things about AEB-L and Elmax and that makes me want to buy them, but I don't doubt that a good implementation of 440C or 154 could probably fool me.
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I agree with you, maybe I should have said that the heat treat allows the blade to be what it really can be. I'd choose good geometry over steel if I had to make the choice. (given blade steels of course)
 
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