whittling: folding knives vs. carving knives, can someone please explain

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pbeck15

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Jun 15, 2015
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Hello and this is my first post:

I whittle. I can do ball-in-cage, chain, baby rattle, whimsy stuff like that. I've tried a variety of folding knives, mostly because I like the idea of carrying the tool in my pocket and because many folding knives really look good. Maybe also a little bit to echo the hobo ethos.

Anyway, all the knives I tried had stainless steel blades. I tried different styles because I kept looking for maximum comfort, something I could hold in my hand for a good while and not feel like it didn't fit or I was fighting it. I discovered I preferred a stiffer blade, and didn't like the Congress pattern, but otherwise there were no revelations. I know how to keep a knife sharp and I did.

Then my grown kids gave me a Flexcut Whittler's Kit for Fathers Day. The kit contains two fixed-blade carving knives, where the blade part is small and the wooden handles are curved to fit the hand. And wow, these knives are astonishing. They cut wood as if it was soap.

I believe they are carbon steel. They are certainly sharpened on a different angle -- bevel? -- than the pocketknives I've used.

Can the difference in cutting ability be attributed to the steel? The way they're sharpened? Both?

The traditionalist side of me would like to find a folding knife that would cut as well as the Flexcuts, and be as pleasing to hold, but is that really a possibility?

Thanks in advance for the advice,

Peter Beck
Chippin' in Chicago
 
I believe the comfortability of a carving knife vs a folding whittler or pocket knife is attributed to the small length of blade in comparison to the large comfortable handle. It allows for alot of torque, comfortable grip, easy to cut and carve into the material without torquing the blade or stressing the pivot as you would on a folding knife. Generally my carving knives have also been chisel ground which in my experience digs and separates a good amount of material while carving. The only other knives I've found to be similarly comfortable for heavy duty carving on hardwood would be an opinel size 7 and up. However, it does not allow for those 'smooth soap like cuts' more so nice deep power cuts to remove the bulk of the material with that convex grind.
 
I am far from a skilled carver. I have carved a few spoons and figures. The thought of using a folding knife (non locking) just makes me a bit nervous. There are times when you need to utilize a technique where you push back on the spine of the blade. In a folder, this would most certainly close the blade. Picture holding an object with your left hand, the knife in the right and elbows tight to the body. The blade edge towards you and your left hand is cradling the object with an underhand grip. The left fingers can push on the spine. This allows for very controlled cuts in situations where access is difficult from a different approach. I have also done some letter carving with chisels.

Here I used the axe to do the initial shaping. The bowl was carved with a hook knife. The rest was carved with this Mora. The handle is much more comfortable than a smaller thinner folding knife. I am not saying using a folder will not work. It certainly can and has been done for 100+ years. A folder is always at the ready and allows for the spur of the moment enjoyment of carving/whittling.

 
I agree TX. It can be done but the most useful knives I've found for carving spoons that make life eons easier is a hook knife. No more rampant risk of gashing open your thumb with the gouge. Well actually..it still happens but it's far easier to shape the wood how you want it.
 
There is a wood carving supply house that has Queen Cutlery produce for them on contract several patterns of traditional pocket knives with D2 blade steel, that are designed for whittling/woodcarving. The man who designed them is Ross Oar, and I think that at least one of the patterns is called an "Oar Carver".
 
My preference for carving knives are made by Lee Ferguson (no relation) in W2. They take and hold a very keen edge when stropped.

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My understanding of the terms, or at least how I take them, is that whittling is the act of shaping wood with a regular pocket knife of some sort, with the activity itself being the primary focus. Using the specialized knives is what I call "woodcarving" which, while it may be enjoyable for the practitioner, is more focused on the end result. In other words, one is carving for fun, the other is carving to create a carved wooden object.

Sort of like plinking with your .22 tube-fed rifle or target-shooting with your tuned custom-stock and scoped target rifle. Both are shooting at stuff, but one is for fun and the other is for achieving high accuracy.

I am sure that practitioners of the crafts have a much better understanding of the differences than I do.
 
Very true John. When you start to use carving tools and sand paper, etc and what not it becomes 'woodcarving' where as whittling for me is with a pocket knife or small fixed blade alongside an axe perhaps for shaping.
 
I talked to a woodcarver who specialized in spoons. He showed me his son's folding knife used for carving and it was a case ground down to a small blade similar to Chief's in shape but a little bigger. He said there was no common folding knife blade that was better than one ground down by hand for carving. Stock folding knife blades were too large, too thick and not the right edge geometry.
 
I have been whittlin' for over 60 years now, mostly with pocket knives. I have used fixed bladed carving knives too, but I always come back to the pocket knife.

Having in effect more than one knife in one compact package that is always with me when the frequent whittlin' fit strikes is a plus, but must say that with some careful choosing it is not all that hard to find a knife with a handle that affords a good grip and blades that are or can be modified to be ideal whittlers. I have found that the edge that can be produced on them is just as good and lasts just as long as the fixed blade knives. Folding on the fingers is not a problem if the knife is used to cut, not poke.

My definition of whittlin' - is carving with a knife. Carving that is not whittlin' uses other tools - I do that too.

I like others on this forum have quite a few knives, but recently I got a GEC Grinling Whittler. This has become my knife of choice. I just love it and have put it to work a lot since I got it

Here are a couple of whittlins

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This one was totally done with that old tricked up pre wwII Remington, while at a concert in the park.

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I have done lots of these with the new Grinling

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Mr. Chips, those are beautiful works of art. I don't know whether it's whittling or carving, but I do know it's over the top!
 
Thanks for the kind comments guys!
Whittling' is fun. Be careful though - it is extremely addicting!

Look at me. Its been 60 years and I'm still at it.
 
Hard to beat basswood for carving/whittling. As you are in Europe, you will likely know it as linden.

- Christian
 
I have found that the single most important factor is blade geometry, bar none. You want as close to a flat grind as possible with a total bevel between 20-25 degrees. Even a crappy knife will work if sharp with such a geometry. A better steel will last longer between sharpening sessions, and if the steel is a good carbon steel, all you will need to do is strop it before and after you carve.
 
For the fan birds I usually use Western White Pine, but ordinary construction grade Spruce works well too. Linden is good wood for whittling figures and faces but it is not good for the fans, because to make a good fan it is necessary to have some wood that splits well and one of the main positive features of Linden is that it does not split easily.

I have seen British Columbia Spruce for sale in such diverse places as Arizona and Australia, so it would not surprise me if it was available in Sardina too.

A book, "Classic Whittling" by Rick Wiebe, and Linden Publishing will be released this fall, and it includes instruction on doing fan birds.

I totally agree with dma1965 on the subject of edge geometry and the angle of 20 - 25 degrees.

I must say though, in terms of sharpening ease, quality of edge, and edge keeping, having tried a LOT of different knives, I find no advantage of 1095 over current ordinary 440A (or whatever) stainless, though the knives made with 1095 usually have had a lot more care in the manufacture.

I have some D2 knives too. Not worth the extra cost IMO.
 
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