- Joined
- Feb 3, 2001
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- 32,354
When I first moved to PA in the early 80s I had the opportunity to visit the fabulous Allentown Fair.
While walkin' down the Midway they had vendors every where, all of a sudden I spot a knife vendor and he was sellin' what looked like some nice knives.
Having read one of my first books on knives I remember the writer listing some things that made up a quality knife.
With all this new found information in my head I spent, (according to my wife) hours handlin' and lookin' over the knives on the table.
Eventually after puttin' all the knives that didn't fit the criteria off to the side I settled on two knives, I don't recall what the other knife was but I settled on this, a Frost Black Hawk II, (I assume the Hawk part was because of the Hawkbill blade) with paka wood scales and two baldes, a hawkbill and a one arm razor blade.
This knife was exactly what I believed to be a good knife so I plunked down my $25 and took my new toy home.
I still have and EDC this knife frequently, it's held up beautifully over the last 28 or so years.
What I really would like to know is what steel he was using back then and where or who he was havin' make his knives?
Also, any one else have an early 80s Frost Cutlery knife and what did/do you think about it, I know most people don't have nice things to say about their knives these days.
Thanks for any help.
While walkin' down the Midway they had vendors every where, all of a sudden I spot a knife vendor and he was sellin' what looked like some nice knives.
Having read one of my first books on knives I remember the writer listing some things that made up a quality knife.
- Fit and finish, he said see how the scales fit, there should be no gaps, it should be even and flush with the bolsters. You should be able to hold the the knife up to a strong light and not see it come through where the scales, liners, backspring and blades are stacked.
- Walk and talk, the action should be smooth, openin' and closin', the springs should be strong but not so strong that ya break a nail everytime ya open it.
- Blades should be ground even on both sides, grind lines and swedges should meet at the end/point and tangs.
- Finish shoud be consistent on the whole blade/blades also the back springs should be flush in the open or closed position.
- Blades should be centered in the handles.
- It should be comfortable to hold and hold a good edge.
With all this new found information in my head I spent, (according to my wife) hours handlin' and lookin' over the knives on the table.
Eventually after puttin' all the knives that didn't fit the criteria off to the side I settled on two knives, I don't recall what the other knife was but I settled on this, a Frost Black Hawk II, (I assume the Hawk part was because of the Hawkbill blade) with paka wood scales and two baldes, a hawkbill and a one arm razor blade.

This knife was exactly what I believed to be a good knife so I plunked down my $25 and took my new toy home.
I still have and EDC this knife frequently, it's held up beautifully over the last 28 or so years.
What I really would like to know is what steel he was using back then and where or who he was havin' make his knives?
Also, any one else have an early 80s Frost Cutlery knife and what did/do you think about it, I know most people don't have nice things to say about their knives these days.
Thanks for any help.