Why buy a CT pack axe or GB sfa ?

Thanks jb.
This ax feels comfortable for me to swing and use with both hands even though it has a short handle. I feel more in control of it when reaching up to cut a limb. It fits in a area that a hatchet falls short and a full ax is too much. I'm glad I was offered a trade for it. I'll put it to good use. DM

Mr. Martin you just described exactly why I am most comfortable and in control with a handle in that 27"-29" length...My height and reach certainly dictate

I have a recently rehung Craftsman that due to the rehang the handle is down to about 27&1/4" and I have not been able to Let It rest.
 
Haa, good to know. If we have good control in a awkward position then more control with firm footing. I think this ax will do a lot of work for me. The Mann Lewistown plant was operational from 1900-1932. After Collins got it I don't know if they used the same stamp. DM
 
Haa, good to know. If we have good control in a awkward position then more control with firm footing. I think this ax will do a lot of work for me. The Mann Lewistown plant was operational from 1900-1932. After Collins got it I don't know if they used the same stamp. DM

Your True American resembles my Craftsman and I don't doubt you will be grabbing for her more than others you have at your disposal.
I have begun comparing how my others chop to the craftsman now. Just a great all around user.
 
I got the date from Steve Tall's research in this topic post #5.It specifically names the Lewistown plant years under Mann ownership. DM
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/james-h-mann-jersey.1539884/#post-17685934

Collins reportedly put "Lewistown" on some Red Seal labels mentioned in my earlier post, but when re-reading the details, it sounds like Collins actually bought the James H. Mann plant in Yeagertown, not the Mann Edge Tool (Joseph R. Mann ) plant in Lewistown.

Details found in Mann Axe Dynasty of Central Pennsylvania
by Jon P. Nelson
 
"True American" was advertised as a brand of William H. Mann, Mill Hall, PA, in this 1899 ad:

content


But, in 1904, The Mann Edge Tool Co. (with factories at Lewistown and Mill Hall) was reported to have bought some other Mann factories, and was said to now be the exclusive maker of the "True American" brand of axes (among many other Mann brands).

content

from Iron Age, February 11, 1904, page 71
 
That's what I found and read, your reference of Mann's ax history in^ post # 47. A good read. Looking through the accompanying photos the
one of the Lewistown plant is shown having several 'brick' buildings and at least one has 3 stories. Quite a plant for 1900. Thanks for the 1904
information. Don't leave this Axe Forum as, your research is of great value. DM
 
Last edited:
Miller, 72, after your encouragement, when I came home this evening I sharpened my Mann axe on a coarse India stone and I'm very pleased with the way it came out. I may take it finer or not as it's cutting very well now. The edge is finer than from a file. I'll use it more this weekend. Thanks, DM
 
So, were finding in this discussion several axes that work well as pack, trail & limb axes. A Craftsman, Mann, Dayton, Collins, Plumb, Tommy and Victory. Something consistent in these gents writing is the 1 3/4 - 2 lb. head with a 24-25" handle. Until, now I had not considered that size to be much ax. But apparently it can do a lot of work. DM
 
Last edited:
I'll tell you guys the way I got my Mann axe head. We raise chickens for eggs and other times meat. We purchased our chickens last Feb. and when they began laying in July, (it takes 5-6 mos.) the first eggs are mediums and most customers want the large. So, we had 4 doz. of these
smaller eggs on hand. I called my neighbor and ask if they needed eggs. He said, sure, and I took these eggs over. After dropping them off, I
turned to leave, when he said.-- Dave, I know you cut all your wood and use an axe. On the back wall of my barn there are some old rusted
axe heads hanging on pegs. Go back there and get one you think you can use. I already had my large axes I use to split and limb with so,
I thought I could use a smaller ax to fit between a hatchet and a splitter. I picked one and left. After cleaning it up I discovered the 'Mann' stamping on it and thought, good, the Axe Forum guys have good things to say about this brand. Then I found that handle and put on it.
So, I have maybe 12$ in this axe and a friend I'll keep taking egg to. DM
 
I gave this axe more workout today and found it slices right through limbs in the 4 finger diameter. I used it to cut both juniper and oak. One or two swings,-- it didn't matter, it went right through. I was impressed! I think it's thinner face profile helps it cut well. Thanks, peg. DM
 
Mr Martin, That is great the True American is working out to be such a hard and true worker!
The story of you Mann reinforces my belief that you don't always need the latest and greatest to do well what simply needs to be done.

I will be looking for a Mann True American when hunting (garage, tag and yard sale) season opens in these parts again :thumbsup::cool::)
 
Miller, I noticed my Mann does not have as much poll as your Collins & Plumb. I wouldn't hammer wedges with my Mann. Perhaps a few nails
or tent stakes. It occurred to me you could redo the heat treat on your import Collins and give it a cryogenic soak. Which would likely improve it's edge holding. I'm guessing you noticed it was softer steel when you started to sharpen it. DM
 
Miller, I noticed my Mann does not have as much poll as your Collins & Plumb. I wouldn't hammer wedges with my Mann. Perhaps a few nails
or tent stakes. It occurred to me you could redo the heat treat on your import Collins and give it a cryogenic soak. Which would likely improve it's edge holding. I'm guessing you noticed it was softer steel when you started to sharpen it. DM

Something I thought I'd mention is that I think he's talking about hammering plastic wedges used to give a saw room to move, he has picked up a decent number of crosscut saws after all.
 
Miller, I noticed my Mann does not have as much poll as your Collins & Plumb. I wouldn't hammer wedges with my Mann. Perhaps a few nails
or tent stakes. It occurred to me you could redo the heat treat on your import Collins and give it a cryogenic soak. Which would likely improve it's edge holding. I'm guessing you noticed it was softer steel when you started to sharpen it. DM

It's definitely a softer steel.
I think a head like this would be a great specimen to experiment and practice such methods however at the moment it is also a good head to keep around handled for my boys to practice and for any friends of mine that feel the need to grab at my axes ;)

Something I thought I'd mention is that I think he's talking about hammering plastic wedges used to give a saw room to move, he has picked up a decent number of crosscut saws after all.

:):cool::thumbsup:
Right On! I am still learning so much, but I do hope to one day fell a tree with one of my saws and axe.
 
I have only one ax that I will allow a visitor to pick up and frail away with. It is a Kelly True Temper double bit with a decent edge and a welded on pipe handle. This way they can only damage the edge. It is an ok splitter and better on limb work ax that they can't damage the handle. I used it for 20 yrs. before I understood what a better splitter and limb ax design looked like. DM
 
I have only one ax that I will allow a visitor to pick up and frail away with. It is a Kelly True Temper double bit with a decent edge and a welded on pipe handle. This way they can only damage the edge. It is an ok splitter and better on limb work ax that they can't damage the handle. I used it for 20 yrs. before I understood what a better splitter and limb ax design looked like. DM

That's great you have a double bit for company to swing if they feel so inclined!!
The welded handle has got to make for great conversation, and after 20 Years of service that true temper has a couple stories to tell i am sure :):thumbsup:
 
Back
Top