Why convex edges are awesome--it's not why you think!

FortyTwoBlades

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I'd like to preface this by stating that these are my observations only. Feel free to disagree--in fact I encourage it! If there's a fault with my reasoning I'd like to correct it. :) This is a long post, so here we go!

If there's one thing that everyone likes, it seems to be convex edges. Users often state how impressed they are with their performance. However, the oft-touted belief is that a convex edge has more material supporting the blade, and thus has better edge retention than a conventional "V" edge. This makes sense at a cursory glance because the shortest distance between two points is a straight line, and so a convex would mean there was more material and a concave would have less, right?

Sort of. A convex edge traversing those two points (the apex of the bevel and where the bevel transitions into the primary grind or blade stock) would have more material supporting the edge...but would also have a broader effective edge angle meaning it would have to displace more material during the cut and at a more rapid pace. This is really the dynamic of the old broad vs. thin edge angle tradeoff, and you can't add material back onto the blade anyway so the only way to increase the supporting material is by diminishing the blade height through sharpening so we push the red lines back into the thicker region of the blade. You can see that that would start removing a lot of blade pretty quick, and at the cost of cutting performance as well. What we really need to be looking at is a "V" edge being converted to a convex of equal effective edge angle. What you get is something like this:

ConvertedConvex.jpg


So you can see that what you're really getting is a reduction of the transitional shoulder, giving you a thinner geometry but maintaining the same edge angle and without significantly reducing the material supporting the edge where it typically needs it most. This makes for a smoother cut (increasing controllability due to the more gradual shift in geometry) but also reduces the amount of material that must be displaced by the blade as it passes through the cutting medium. This means that your cuts require less energy, yet the edge is still almost as well-supported as a conventional "V" edge.

Given the actual realistic benefit provided by a convex edge, this is why I tell folks to not worry too much about maintaining a perfect convex edge when out in the field. If you're a perfectionist you can always restore it to "true" when you get back to the house. Besides--freehand sharpening results in slight variation in angle from stroke to stroke so you end up with a very slight convex form anyhow. :)

Most tests in which folks have been impressed with the edge-holding abilities of convex edges have been batoning their knife through a bunch of wood and then still been able to shave their arm at the end. Impressive, right? Well once the edge goes in the edge rarely actually touches the wood! The parts of the bevel either side of the edge and the bevel of the primary grind take the brunt of the action since the wood splits ahead of the edge itself. The convex edge doesn't significantly play a role in this effect other than perhaps allowing the split to start a little easier. Cross-grain batoning would be another matter, but little comparative testing has been done between two otherwise identical knives of equal edge angle with "V" and convex edges to provide substantive evidence for any sort of improvement in edge retention. If there is one it's simply that for equal amounts of force applied to each blade the thinner convex one will be able to cut deeper, and thus cut more material for equal energy expenditure, but the actual sharpness of the edge (or the thickness of the apex on the terminal "edge" bevel) will be affected about the same since it has the same edge angle and degree of wear resistance.


Discuss!
 
FTB, I'm buying what you are selling, especially this sentence which may be your thesis: "This means that your cuts require less energy, yet the edge is still almost as well-supported as a conventional "V" edge."

I don't think I own any convex edges, except maybe some Busses that I have never used, but I may have to give it a try. I've always been a V guy.

Good stuff, FTB.
 
I have an almost reflexive reaction to topics about the convex edge. However, this one seems sensible enough so far to participate. I completely agree with the diagrams. However, one thing I do not like about the various edge diagrams on the interwebz is the scale is way off. It still gets the point across though.

Here is what bugs me about a lot of these discussions. The amount of accidental convexing done when freehand sharpening while trying to maintain a V edge is essentially meaningless with regard to improving cutting ability. Its just an attempt to get in on the latest (though its not that new) trend/fad/buzzword in sharpening. I have sharpened knives on belt sanders, slack hand held sandpaper, free hand, v-bevel, Sharpmaker, angled blocks, Lansky type systems, etc, and have found no difference in cutting ability between the methods that produce a convex edge and V edge.

I have made convex edge blades, but it's because I like the way they look, not because I find they cut better. I even went so far as to fully convex my old Schrade Peanut by laying the blades flat on a slack belt stretched between my hand and a wall hook and progressing from 80 grit to 600 grit, then stropping on a piece of leather streched tight. A mirror finish was put on the blade from edge to spine, no secondary bevel other than what the curved sharpening surfaces provided. In the end, I went back to a shallow v edge and found it cut just as well and sharpened MUCH faster. I used this knife on VERY binding material that I simply couldn't force the blade of my tactical folder through.

When I look at edges like in the diagrams above, I think the edge does cut better/with less force, but it's because metal was removed from the cross section, not because the surfaces are curved instead of flat.
 
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I am a fan of convex edges. I think the way I do them falls somewhere in between your two diagrams, I use a Work Sharp to convex my edges. The flex in the belt creates the convex as the edge is being sharpened/profiled. I think they do cut better on firm materials that have more friction not sure if they improve edge retention. I usually use a smiths pocket sharpener to touch things up in the field (usually just a few strokes on the ceramic side) which gives me a convex profile with likely a very slight V not even sure what to call that. I have been using a S30V blade this year quite a bit and it can usually hold up without needing touched up until I get back home.
 
[...]

When I look at edges like in the diagrams above, I think the edge does cut better/with less force, but it's because metal was removed from the cross section, not because the surfaces are curved instead of flat.

Bingo. My point exactly. The only advantage that the curvature gives you is the "feel" of the cut is perhaps a hair smoother and that can give the user a greater sense of control...or not, depending on how closely they're "listening" to the tool in the first place. The only significant advantage is that it's a little thinner in cross-sectional geometry without sacrificing a ton of material immediately at the edge. You can produce a similar effect by "sharpening" at a shallower angle than the edge for a bit to take some meat off of the shoulder. You'll then have the 3 bevels with the terminal bevel (edge) being a tertiary one rather than secondary. :)

I am a fan of convex edges. I think the way I do them falls somewhere in between your two diagrams, I use a Work Sharp to convex my edges. The flex in the belt creates the convex as the edge is being sharpened/profiled. I think they do cut better not sure if they improve edge retention. I usually use a smiths pocket sharpener to touch things up in the field (usually just a few strokes on the ceramic side) which gives me a convex profile with likely a very slight V not even sure what to call that. I have been using a S30V blade this year quite a bit and it can usually hold up without needing touched up until I get back home.

They shouldn't have any improved edge retention unless you thin out the material immediately behind the edge since as the apex of the bevel wears you're creating a plane and the thinner the material behind the edge the thinner the apex will remain as it wears. That, of course, comes at the cost of durability, and the edge will be more susceptible to damage.

I touch up my convex edges the same way you do. Once the initial work is done there's very little point to keeping it "true."
 
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Here's another thing to think about. The diagrams of the convex surfaces above can have a flat/faceted bevel fit inside them, and then another convex inside that, and so on until we reach a triangle from spine to edge (Nikkala anyone?). Whichever geometry you choose, it can always go thinner until you reach that point. After that, if you convex, it starts beefing things back up, or the blade starts to get narrower from spine to edge.
 
Nice post FortyTwoBlades!

For me, convex geometry works better than V geometry because convex face non-Newtonian gradient vectors rapid change direction from resist to compress, thus less reduction in down/cutting force which allow deeper cut. Volume displacement differences between V and convex, in this case, is trivial.

About 21yrs ago, I spent 6mos on Computational_fluid_dynamics for an international shipping company client. Luckily, not all memory were discharged, so I can blah 2cents about V vs Convex.
 
Here's another thing to think about. The diagrams of the convex surfaces above can have a flat/faceted bevel fit inside them, and then another convex inside that, and so on until we reach a triangle from spine to edge (Nikkala anyone?). Whichever geometry you choose, it can always go thinner until you reach that point. After that, if you convex, it starts beefing things back up, or the blade starts to get narrower from spine to edge.

Exactly. And that has to do with edge angle. The "triangle" you refer to would be a zero full flat, like a wedge straight razor. The very thinnest the edge can get without reducing spine thickness. :)

Nice post FortyTwoBlades!

For me, convex geometry works better than V geometry because convex face non-Newtonian gradient vectors rapid change direction from resist to compress, thus less reduction in down/cutting force which allow deeper cut. Volume displacement differences between V and convex, in this case, is trivial.

About 21yrs ago, I spent 6mos on Computational_fluid_dynamics for an international shipping company client. Luckily, not all memory were discharged, so I can blah 2cents about V vs Convex.

Thanks for the compliment! Based on posts of yours I've read you have a very rich understanding of these things!

However, correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't fluid dynamics only apply 100% in flexible mediums? To my understanding more stiff or rigid ones still exhibit a certain amount of those dynamics but to a more limited degree. Ultimately in my opinion it has very little to do with whether it's convex or linear so much as bevel angles and sectional volume. And, of course, just how sharp you have the darn thing in the first place! :p
 
Nice post.

I'm working on convexing a cheap chef knife to get the hang of it.

It is very thin, and I am 90% there, at moments it is like a razor, others it is just pretty sharp.

I think my problem is a combination of sharpening angle and downward pressure on the strop,
or maybe just one or the other... :confused:
 
For me, the beauty of the convex is not just in the performance, it is in the ease of maintenance.

I just find stropping, and edge trailing sharpening on sandpaper over a soft backing much much easier than a V edge.
 
I agree with FTB.
I want to make another point I haven't seen mentioned anywhere.

When sharpening a V edge, many people just sharpen the edge bevel. They leave the primary bevel untouched, especially on coated blades. So the shoulder just up from the edge gets broader & broader.
But stropping a convex people usually are touching up a broader area of blade. They are not just sharpening the edge, but narrowing the blade as well.
So after an extended period, the convex would be outperforming.

I like V grinds, but I spend a lot of time keeping the primary grind thin.
 
However, correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't fluid dynamics only apply 100% in flexible mediums? To my understanding more stiff or rigid ones still exhibit a certain amount of those dynamics but to a more limited degree.

Yes, certainly there is limitation of how much fluid dynamics translate to cutting-material dynamics. However using non-Newtonian for non-continuous/uniform interaction, V / teardrop / convex / concave /etc... still apply. Also vortexes will form with interaction speed, thus become non-Newtonian. There are overlapped ... by how much? depend, right. It would be very complex to fluid dynamics to simulate the interaction for an edge against a piece partially hollow burl.
 
If there's a fault with my reasoning I'd like to correct it. :)

The major "fault" in your OP is that you seem to assume that everyone starts with some standard flat-ground/V-edge geometry and then convexes it. You're certainly right that removing steel does not make a blade stronger.

However...

Airplane wings and splitting mauls and baseballs are convex for a very good reason. Pushing a flat plane through any material (lots of surface area in contact at once, which means lots of friction and drag) requires more force than pushing a curved surface through it. The difference in performance may be completely undetectable with a blade designed for whittling hairs from a baby unicorn's bottom, but may really shine when subjected to "hard use" (whatever that means).

My point is, a few manu's and many custom makers start with convex edges and/or bevels in the first place, and adjust the relevant angles and edge thickness/keeness according to intended use.
 
I love my convex edged knives!! Richard J first introduced me to the convex edge! He said trust me you ll like it and I loved it!! BTW I highly recommend his sharpening services if anyone is in need! He does an awesome job and is very reasonable! He would probably be glad to talk your ear off about convex edges as well! I ll send him this link, maybe he ll chime in here!!
 
The major "fault" in your OP is that you seem to assume that everyone starts with some standard flat-ground/V-edge geometry and then convexes it. You're certainly right that removing steel does not make a blade stronger.

However...

Airplane wings and splitting mauls and baseballs are convex for a very good reason. Pushing a flat plane through any material (lots of surface area in contact at once, which means lots of friction and drag) requires more force than pushing a curved surface through it. The difference in performance may be completely undetectable with a blade designed for whittling hairs from a baby unicorn's bottom, but may really shine when subjected to "hard use" (whatever that means).

My point is, a few manu's and many custom makers start with convex edges and/or bevels in the first place, and adjust the relevant angles and edge thickness/keeness according to intended use.

The purpose of my discussion was specifically to address the trend of folks to convert standard "V" or linear edges to convex ones, so yes it does make that presumption. There would be, after all, no need to convert an edge that already came as a convex. The items you mention--airplane wings, mauls, and baseballs--don't really make a lot of sense when it comes to this discussion. Airplane wings WOULD make sense the most since you're dealing with a tapered form passing through a medium (air) but the reason for the convexity is to harness Bernoulli's Principle and provide lift. A (presumably splitting?) maul is not necessarily convex--I've seen many that weren't. German-style splitting axes are concave, in fact. Baseballs are round to provide a concentrated mass that does not require orientation to the target. If you had a paper airplane as heavy as a baseball its pointed shape would pass through the air with less resistance.

Again, just my thoughts.
 
I love my convex edged knives!! Richard J first introduced me to the convex edge! He said trust me you ll like it and I loved it!! BTW I highly recommend his sharpening services if anyone is in need! He does an awesome job and is very reasonable! He would probably be glad to talk your ear off about convex edges as well! I ll send him this link, maybe he ll chime in here!!

Richard J is the man. Great guy. :thumbup:
 
Very interesting read. I convex most all my knives, but to varying degrees. Some times I will do a blended convex which is what FTB is referring to. I do a lot of edge testing on knives, steel and differing geometries on the knives I make and I have found that a convex is definitely my preferred edge. I am currently comparing two knives, both with convex grinds and the same thickness behind the edge. The only main difference is stock thickness as one is 1/16" and the other is 1/8". Not meaning to veer too far off subject, but I think that stock thickness has as much to do with cutting performance as anything. A 1/4" chopper is not going to carve as well as a blade that is 1/16", convexed or not. I don't usually join these discussions either, but I felt this was worth mentioning as a previous post compared a convexed peanut to a tactical folder.
 
Yup! Stock thickness contributes significantly to sectional volume so the thicker it is generally the more mass must be displaced, and more energy is spent pushing that material to the sides than it is towards passint the edge deeper into the material.
 
good thread fourtytwoblades.

when i first started making knives, the way i ground my blades they ended up with convexed edges when i was done. i used a craftsman handheld belt sander for wood held in a vise upside down mostly using the slack part of the belt to thin the edge. nobody knew how to sharpen or maintain a convex edge so i was putting v edges on a convexed blade.

now the same people see how sharp my knives are with a convex edge (or half convex edge on the chisel ground knives i make) and they want to get convex edges put on their own knives.

k II has a half convex edge and i doubt it would chop as well as it does with a half a v edge. a convex edge is also a lot easier to maintain.

when i sent k II off on a private passaround, the first member to try out k II was CWR0401 who trains military pilots how to survive if they get shot down (he is an s.e.r. e. specialist in the army). he was amazed at how well k II chopped. he said even though it was 13" long it would make a good survival knife. here are 2 vids caleb made. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Esp9tg4ZBpA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hW_XDLecms

the 2nd member to try out the knife was unit and here is a link to a vid he made for anyone that has never seen it yet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q_eMwRaHYg
 
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