Wood for axe handle

J

JakeKnives

Joined
Jul 5, 2018
Messages
23
I am new to axe restorations and picked up two old heads for $2. and I am wondering what wood I should use for a handle, But I have no access to Hickory in my area.
 
Are you planning on making the handles yourself?
Ash is one used a lot. Not sure what part of the country you live in but If you can find a good lumber store or a wood worker store. They should have a good selection of wood.
 
What types of hardwood trees are in your area? Besides ash which is a good choice, rock maple or other hard maple can make an acceptable handle. Black locust is great wood for handles though it has a tendency warp while drying. But if you find a good straight piece it can make an excellent handle. Plus it's rot resistant. Honey locust, birches and beech can all serve as decent axe handles. Osage orange is another excellent choice if you can find a long straight piece.

Have a look at this chart.
Mechanical%20properties%20of%20wood.jpg


I think the key figure is the modulus of rupture - breaking strength. You'd like to stay above 9000 lbs. per inch^2, but can make do with down to 8000.

Modulus of elasticity will make the handle more comfortable to use and more shock absorbing.
 
What size axes are we taking about? Pretty much any woodworkers supply store that carries lumber like Rockler, Woodcraft, a local similar place, etc. should have hardwood suitable to the task. Probably including hickory. I was in a Woodcraft several weeks ago and there was plenty of hickory, from 4/4 boards to big live edge slabs.
 
I agree with Ernest. We gotta know where you are generally speaking. Plus if you go out in the woods and cut a tree down you'll have to buck it, split it, make a blank and wait a year anyway before its seasoned. I would recommend doing this! But in the meantime order some nice hickory hafts. I have had very good results from white ash, red oak, rock maple and white birch for smaller heads will do. A lot of lumber stores, even smaller ones, stock 2x4's in hard maple and red oak. Good luck man!
 
Yankee Josh said:
Plus if you go out in the woods and cut a tree down you'll have to buck it, split it, make a blank and wait a year anyway before its seasoned.
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Seasoning isn't as important as people think, at least not for a simple user handle. Forum member G-Pig used to regularly make axe handles from green wood and they held up well enough for him. Perhaps leave the wedge a little long so it can be driven even deeper for a couple months.

The biggest problem with hanging on green wood is warpage. You can't predict how a piece will dry.
 
Square_peg said:
Seasoning isn't as important as people think, at least not for a simple user handle. Forum member G-Pig used to regularly make axe handles from green wood and they held up well enough for him. Perhaps leave the wedge a little long so it can be driven even deeper for a couple months.

The biggest problem with hanging on green wood is warpage. You can't predict how a piece will dry.
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Interesting! Pray tell, what kind of wood was he using?
As you mentioned shrinkage was the problem i ran into with wood not properly dried. The top of the eye was an easy fix but its the bottom of the eye that is the problem. Once loose you've got to remove the head completely and reshape etc. Personally, I'll never again take the time(waste the time in my opinion) to hang an axe on an un- seasoned haft.
 
G-pig wrote in another thread, "Ive never had Ash warp, nor have I had Birch warp, despite carving both green. Sugar Maple will warp very readily, but I keep the handles hung and out of the sun..."
G-pig said:
Ive never had Ash warp, nor have I had Birch warp, despite carving both green. Sugar Maple will warp very readily, but I keep the handles hung and out of the sun, and those ones will not warp. I wouldn't worry too much about warping, especially since these are for all intents and purposes, "dry" at least compared to a green tree.
Click to expand...

How G-pig makes handles:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-i-make-axe-handles.919061/
 
Steve Tall said:
G-pig wrote in another thread, "Ive never had Ash warp, nor have I had Birch warp, despite carving both green. Sugar Maple will warp very readily, but I keep the handles hung and out of the sun..."


How G-pig makes handles:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-i-make-axe-handles.919061/
Click to expand...
I read the post. Sounds like g-pig has a method that works for him! But i must respectfully disagree. But only with the drying and oiling part. From my experience it's not worth my time to do something twice. And while i do agree that ash does shrink more that hard maple, maple shrinks too! Everything shrinks once dry, it only stands to reason. And I'm aware that oil from your hands does leach into the wood but, if you're like me and have 4 or 5 dozen axes(at least) you can't swing em all! So i oil em with blo. The other info in his post was spot on though and i appreciate him taking the time to make it and share. The only reason i mention this at all is because i don't want newcomers(like the op of this thread) to put their all into a green haft and be disappointed in a week or two once it comes loose. Its discouraging and has happened to me! Just my two cents.
 
G-pig said:
I probably wouldn't torch it, it could cause checking by drying it out too fast. There shouldn't be any problems as long as you dry it slowly.

I did just find this quote from G-pig in that thread that i missed when reading it last time. It appears that he was recommending drying them before hanging?
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Above you'll find my words below the quote of G-pig. I don't usually use the "quote" feature and i somehow messed it up. Lol.
 
Working with green wood is a pleasure, but other than for rapidly getting an axe hung for immediate service I'd stop at splitting to rough dimensions. We all know shrinking and checking and warps and bows happen in spite of whatever wood gods one prays to. I'm in Yankee Josh's camp, the time saved working with green wood is offset by a bend or warp etc that it's not worth it to me. I know my "do it right once" method and mantra, but different folks different strokes. That said I'd reiterate that a green handle probably isn't best practice for the uninitiated.
 
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