Wood Sealant

J

JNieporte

Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
3,352
What do you guys use to seal the handle of your Opinels and other wooden-handled knives? Don't want water to get in, or for the handle to warp, but I'm not sure if I should just buy the stuff at the hardware store, or something special.
 
Mineral oil (available at your local pharmacy) is recommended for wood handled kitchen knives and wood cutting boards. It doesn't go rancid.
 
I would use several coats of Watco Danish Oil....sold locally at Lowe's or Home Depot. If not that, several coats of boiled linseed oil. If not that, a few coats of varnish or polyurethane. Steel wool (00 or 000) between coats with the Danish or linseed oil. Sand lightly with 320 between coats with the varnish or poly. Before the last coat, use steel wool (000).
 
Tung or boiled linseed oil will work too. It also doesn't go rancid and cures pretty nicely so it shouldn't seep.
 
Tru Oil by Birchwood Casey is one of the best one's I have used.

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I think the factory just sprays them with clear lacquer.
Bill
 
Then there's my favorite finish: fresh-mixed shellac. I admit (before I get body slammed) it's not the best finish for tossing your knife into the dishwasher, but it's one tough cookie otherwise. EASY to repair and refinish too (and SAFE if you're ever in a survival situation, you're hungry, and you want to eat the handle of your Opinel). ((( :D )))

In fact, you can put a coat or three of boiled linseed oil on the scales, wait a couple of three days, and then finish with 10 or 15 coats of shellac. Now there's a nice finish that's durable, easy and fun to do.
 
StretchNM said:
(and SAFE if you're ever in a survival situation, you're hungry, and you want to eat the handle of your Opinel). ((( :D )))
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You can also use it to waterproof your M&Ms!

I also forgot to mention a classic gunstock finish. Put equal parts BLO, beeswax, and thinner of your choice (I'd use odorless mineral spirits) over a non-flame heat source until melted and mixed. Put the mixture in a mason jar or other container to cool. Rub the stuff into the wood with a rag, your fingertips, or a bit of light gray Scotch Brite as needed.

I'd still give the handle a good soak in BLO before applying the "1/3" mixture.
 
I like and can recommend Tru-Oil. It is very easy to use and works great in my opinion. It does take some time to get all the coats on due to the drying time in between coats.
 
If you want your waterproofing to be food safe (or just less toxic)...

I was definitely recommend a beeswax / mineral oil mixture.

Forget the correct mixing formula but just make sure you use a container you never want to use again... this works great for cutting boards, wooden spoons, kitchen knife handles, etc
 
I was sanding my Opinel handle when I found this thread. OK, so maybe I had just finished sanding and was wondering what I should use to finish the handle when I found this thread...

I couldn't find any pure tung oil where I live, but I did find Watco butcher block oil in a big box home improvement store. Thought I would throw that into the pile of suggestions. My second coat is drying right now.

Mark.
 
It appears to be a oil/varnish mixture or even just a varnish according to its MSDS. Try putting a drop on a piece of glass or other smooth surface and then see what it looks like tomorrow.

Either way, varnishes are tough finishes.
 
I would like to find some other than polyurethane to seal with. If I use oil then the handle still stains. Polyurethane gets slick in different situations. Any ideas? Thanks
 
I second Tru-oil. I have not used it yet but it is beeing used for musical instruments that are being touched all the time. Makes sense!
 
Does Danish oil seal (as suggested above)? I didn't think it had that property.

I'm getting some of the Watco Butcher Block oil that someone mentioned, but I'll be using it on carved spoons, not my Opi.

I used food safe spray silicone (incidental contact safe) to soak my Opinel. The whole thing. Just sprayed it liberally, but I haven't checked for water resistance. I wouldn't be surprised if it was resistant though.
 
Strigamort said:
Does Danish oil seal (as suggested above)? I didn't think it had that property.

I'm getting some of the Watco Butcher Block oil that someone mentioned, but I'll be using it on carved spoons, not my Opi.

I used food safe spray silicone (incidental contact safe) to soak my Opinel. The whole thing. Just sprayed it liberally, but I haven't checked for water resistance. I wouldn't be surprised if it was resistant though.
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'Danish Oil' is a mix of linseed oil, varnish and thinner. The thinned mix more easily penetrates deeper into the wood, and the varnish will indeed act as a sealer; it's essentially permanent. I used Watco Danish Oil on my Opinel, and like it. :)


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
'Danish Oil' is a mix of linseed oil, varnish and thinner. The thinned mix more easily penetrates deeper into the wood, and the varnish will indeed act as a sealer; it's essentially permanent. I used Watco Danish Oil on my Opinel, and like it. :)


David
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Very good David thanks! I quoted you in my carving knife thread over in the projects forum btw, hope you don't mind.

This is a carving knife that I made yesterday, I used Danish Oil. I'll probably use it from now on instead of BLO.

IMAG1151_zpse2ad882c.jpg


IMAG1155_zpsb9d2e9aa.jpg
 
Strigamort said:
Very good David thanks! I quoted you in my carving knife thread over in the projects forum btw, hope you don't mind.

This is a carving knife that I made yesterday, I used Danish Oil. I'll probably use it from now on instead of BLO.

(...)
Click to expand...

Looks good! :thumbup:

I have an old, 'inexpensive' Japanese-made paring knife with what I assume is walnut handles on it. I think I'll probably use the Danish Oil on that one as well. I think about it every time I wash the knife after using it with my dinner prep. Danish oil is real easy stuff to work with, and I still have the better part of a whole can of it that's just begging to be put to use. Not that I'll need all that for the paring knife, of course... :D


David
 
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