Wooden wheels for a grinder

Z

zippin44

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Aug 13, 2007
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I have a old 3 phase table saw motor and a Teco VFD and was thinking about cobbling together a grinder. This is just for making stuff for myself as I have no intention of doing anything professionally. Anyway, I have a nice woodshop and was thinking about making some wheels out of laminated plywood stacked up and glued. You can drill a hole in the approximate center, run a threaded rod through it and then mount it flat on a workbench. THen you can spin it into a stationary router mounted at the proper distance from the center and end up with a perfectly round wheel - pretty easy. I was going to use 5/8" or 3/4" shaft through pillow blocks and a flange bearing on the wheel. Seems to me it should work fine. I've been thnking about this for a while, and then last night, I just happened to be watching a Youtube video that Michael Morris did and noticed that he has basically the same setup. I was curious if others had ever used the same set up? If there were an ideal wheel size range for grinding, etc. It'll be my first time off the drawing board, so I figured I'd ask. A search didn't turn up a whole lot.
 
I don't know if the wood would last or how good it would be but I have seen postings of guys using them. I believe a good wheel size is 10" or 12" Frank
 
Hey, Noah
I made one of these about two years ago.
Spent a ton of time on it, too.
I cut the wheel true on a milling machine though.
The problem I encountered, and never really resolved to my satisfaction, was vibration.
The wheel was so heavy that any little imbalance, and/or run out, on the wheel and shaft resulted in some serious vibrating. And since it was made out of wood it would swell or shrink, just a little, but enough to throw it out of balance.
I think if you could attach it to a heavy frame that would help absorb a lot of the vibrations.
I got the idea from watching that same video, and he's got his attached to a pretty heavy frame.

Actually if you want I've got a precision ground axle and pillow blocks from that project. You can have them if you pay the shipping.

Leif
 
The first grinder I had had a wooden wheels running in spherical pillow block bearing. The design was no the best but it worked OK. I dont remember vibration being a problem. I actually turned the wheel round in place on a tool rest like a lathe. I still have it somewhere, but I don't remember if I covered it or not. I tend to think I covered it with leather. This is one of theose things that done simply work pretty much as well as if done with a great deal of pomp and circumstance. When all is said and done, it is still a wooden wheel. I would say give it a whirl. you will look back years from now on it fondly and learn a lot in the process.
 
I have seen about a dozen or so and worked on two. The result is always the same after the novelty wears off they purchase rubber or now a days poly wheels.
 
Pretty sure that Michael Morris made his wheels, if your going to do it use a good grade of plywood and laminate then together. Once you get it roughed out and running you can true it with a snading block and sand paper. A strip of 11-13 ounce vegetable tanned leather epoxied to the trued wheel comes pretty close to 90 durometers. Make sure to bevel and overlap the ends so you don't get the dreaded bump. If you want a big wheel it's the only way to go unless you just have a lot of money to spend. They are fairly heavy, just give them a spin by hand then turn the grinder on. Once it's up to speed the weight helps with momentum.
 
A friend of mine has used the same 4" hard maple drive and idlers for over 30 years without incident. He has made hundreds/thousands of knives on that machine. Use quality materials and your best craftmanship.
 
Wood is not as uniform as the metal used in wheels so at high RPM balance might be an issue. I don't know about strength in tension but your design should hold together. If you can figure out a way to dynamically balance the wheel a high RPM, I think the vibration issue will be a moot point.
 
You mentioned covering the wheels with leather. I was thinking of using the rubber they use for band saw tires. I looked very carefully at Michael Morris' video and I can't see any tires on his wheel. I'm gonna drop him a pine and see what he says.

J. Hoover said:
Pretty sure that Michael Morris made his wheels, if your going to do it use a good grade of plywood and laminate then together. Once you get it roughed out and running you can true it with a snading block and sand paper. A strip of 11-13 ounce vegetable tanned leather epoxied to the trued wheel comes pretty close to 90 durometers. Make sure to bevel and overlap the ends so you don't get the dreaded bump. If you want a big wheel it's the only way to go unless you just have a lot of money to spend. They are fairly heavy, just give them a spin by hand then turn the grinder on. Once it's up to speed the weight helps with momentum.
Click to expand...
 
Leaf,
That's really nice of you. If you're okay with it, I'd put it to good use. I'll send you an email.
Thanks!

leifjl said:
Hey, Noah
I made one of these about two years ago.
Spent a ton of time on it, too.
I cut the wheel true on a milling machine though.
The problem I encountered, and never really resolved to my satisfaction, was vibration.
The wheel was so heavy that any little imbalance, and/or run out, on the wheel and shaft resulted in some serious vibrating. And since it was made out of wood it would swell or shrink, just a little, but enough to throw it out of balance.
I think if you could attach it to a heavy frame that would help absorb a lot of the vibrations.
I got the idea from watching that same video, and he's got his attached to a pretty heavy frame.

Actually if you want I've got a precision ground axle and pillow blocks from that project. You can have them if you pay the shipping.

Leif
Click to expand...
 
I'm wondering what the belt speed range makers find most useful for grinding, finishing, and polishing?
 
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