Woohoo! Picked up my first axes, pics and questions inside.

T

Tom Cruise

Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
25
So I just recently have become interested in the mechanics of axes, when I saw a swap-meet on the side of the highway the other day I just had to swing by and see what could be found! I really don't know enough to judge what is a "good" axe or not so I only considered the heads that had a makers mark of some kind on them. I found quite a few marked "Collins" but most were in horrible condition with lopsided uneven grinds or massive chunks missing from the bit.

I did find these two that at the price I could not refuse. First a single bit Craftsman. To show you how ignorant I am I didn't even know Craftsman made axes, but hey it's a name brand in good condition and I got it for a good price (I think)...

DSCN0901 by laghaxx, on Flickr

DSCN0902 by laghaxx, on Flickr

DSCN0904 by laghaxx, on Flickr

You can just barely make out the Craftsman stamp on the handle.

DSCN0903 by laghaxx, on Flickr

Unfortunately I took a couple gentle test swings and this was the result, it will have to be rehandled.

DSCN0906 by laghaxx, on Flickr

The second axe is a double bit Master Mechanic.


DSCN0915 by laghaxx, on Flickr

No other markings besides this that I can see.

DSCN0916 by laghaxx, on Flickr

DSCN0917 by laghaxx, on Flickr

I think I can do the sharpening, I have read up on the subject and feel I can do it without making a mess of it. As for hanging new handles, I have never attempted such a project so this will be a learning experience, but I am sure I can "handle" it.

I have a couple questions, I tried to date the Craftsman by the logo but I really could not find a good timeline of such. I assume it is a fairly modern head but does anyone know a date for sure? I am just curious.

Second question, the Master Mechanic axe. I did not see this brand listed in the sticky in this forum, and a google search has turned up nothing. Does anyone know anything about this brand? From the condition of it do you think it will be worth the effort to clean it up and rehandle it or is it more of a wall hanger at this point?

Thanks for looking! I know I'm looking forward to the learning process!
 
Dating axes is pretty difficult. The logo looks newer, but even knowing that I'm not sure where to place it... Maybe 60s or 70s? Others here will know better.
You may not have to rehandle that axe though; the handle appears to be in good shape, and often one is able to pry that wedge out and replace it with a slightly wider one. If you have the ability to saw one yourself out of a piece of hard wood you might try that, the stuff that commercial wedges are made out of seems to be too soft to really do its job well. If you really wanted to fine tune things you could take a paring chisel and remove a little wood so the head sits about 1/4" lower than it is now. You may have to deepen the kerf the wedge lives in too. Just be careful hammering the new wedge in; for the uncut fawn's foot handles like that you almost need to build a little jig out of a block of wood so that you can hold the axe upright and hammer down on it without damaging that pointy end.
The Master Mechanic looks like it just has a good layer of surface rust, I bet it will clean up nicely with a wire brush on a drill. Just do it outside or wear a dust mask, breathing rust powder sucks. After that you could give it a vinegar bath to get off any remnants, it works well and leaves a nice patina. There are other threads on here about that. Good luck!
 
cooperhill said:
Re: Master Mechanic. Googled it and found this worthpoint link.

http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-master-mechanic-double-bit-167064792

"Master Mechanic is a house brand for True Value hardware stores, similar to the Craftsman brand for Sears. As done by Sears/Craftsman, True Value contracts with assorted tool manufacturers to make their tool including axes. "
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! I also found this:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/1...chanic_professional_36_axe_eye_mattock_handle

A Master Mechanic axe handle, listed under Seymour Manufacturing. Seymour Manufacturing is apparently located in Seymour, IN and has a webpage which lists a 36" double bit Michigan axe but does not have a photo. Hmmmm...
 
Nice clean axes. You might be able to get the wedge out and just rewedge. I got one out by drilling an undersized hold in the wedge and then screwed in a slightly larger diameter screw then yanked the wedge out with the screw. Worth a try.

Regards

Robin
 
Pipeman said:
Nice clean axes. You might be able to get the wedge out and just rewedge. I got one out by drilling an undersized hold in the wedge and then screwed in a slightly larger diameter screw then yanked the wedge out with the screw. Worth a try.
Click to expand...

That's a smart trick I'll have to remember.
 
That double bit looks really good. It doesn't look like it's showing any wear or tear. Clean the rust off and re-haft it and it should make for a nice axe.
 
Pipeman said:
Nice clean axes. You might be able to get the wedge out and just rewedge. I got one out by drilling an undersized hold in the wedge and then screwed in a slightly larger diameter screw then yanked the wedge out with the screw. Worth a try.

Regards

Robin
Click to expand...

Genius! Worked like a charm.

DSCN0919 by laghaxx, on Flickr

I will try and re-wedge it instead of a new handle first.
 
Tom Cruise said:
Genius! Worked like a charm.

DSCN0919 by laghaxx, on Flickr

I will try and re-wedge it instead of a new handle first.
Click to expand...

Hey Tom Cruise ;-)) Glad it worked for you. If I were you I would coat the inside of the wedge slot with a good coat of linseed oil, maybe a couple, it looks dry. Also coat the new wedge when you drive it in. Coat the entire handle inside and out ;-))

Regards

Robin
 
Pipeman said:
Nice clean axes. You might be able to get the wedge out and just rewedge. I got one out by drilling an undersized hold in the wedge and then screwed in a slightly larger diameter screw then yanked the wedge out with the screw. Worth a try.

Regards


Robin
Click to expand...

what pipeman said, just needs to be tightened up with a new wedge and a good linseed oil soak
buzz
 
markv said:
what pipeman said, just needs to be tightened up with a new wedge and a good linseed oil soak
buzz
Click to expand...

But, for the love of all that is holy, don't use so much linseed oil that it looks like a slip-n-slide when you're done.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top