Work Gloves

colu41

colu41

Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Messages
1,598
So I have these pair of gloves here
VI4869XX_78_C_M_RGB_web.JPG

that I use in the shop.

I recently started using gloves while doing grinds. I found myself taking a lot of time fixing mistakes on grinds because of burnt fingers and what not.

These gloves have padded leather tips and dissipate heat pretty well. Bad thing is, the index finger on both gloves are starting to melt away from where the blade rests near my knuckle because of the mesh.

Does anyone out there have any suggestions on a pair of THIN, somewhat heat resistant gloves that would be good for grinding? I love mechanix style gloves as they allow the most movement. All leather would be way too tight and restricting. Especially while grinding. Any tips would be great.
 
Ive never found them to be honest. Sparks burn up gloves fast.I have very large hands(I wear XXX and XXXX large gloves and I have to order them).After burning up several pair I just stopped. A push stick will help keep your finger away from the work and quick dunks in the slack tub..Ive worked on a farm all my life and been welding since I was 15 so my hands are thrashed anyway...
Other than welding gloves Ive never had a glove that stood up to hot work for very long at all..Even welding gloves wont stand up to too many grinding sparks..
 
Every three to four knives I treat myself to another pair of gloves. And I tape the burn marks on the fingers and use those for handle grinding duty.
 
So it seems like theres no permanent fix. Maybe I'll just pick up a few pairs of the cheaper heat resistant gloves and account for them being disposable. I guess it's worth it to not burn off your fingers and get better grind lines. :)
 
Last time i visited Laurence "Rhinoknives" I traded some Bocote and ebony for some of his finger skins. They are really nice. I make only kitchen knives so those thin tips would get REALLY hot. You can certainly feel the heat when you're using them but it doesnt burn. Other thing i like about them over gloves is if you catch on the belt the skin will fly off without pulling your hand too badly.
 
Harbor Freight sell a cheap ( about .99 the last time I bought 20 pairs on sale, I think) glove with a sticky yellow rubber on the palm and under side of the finger. The rubber will melt if you let the blade get too hot, but better the rubber than your skin. They have a very good grip, and at that price, when the rubber melts, just throw them away. You can also duct tape the burn holes in you want.
 
I get the cheap version on the mechnix type gloves from Menard's or the box stores. Nine bucks or so.
 
tim37a said:
Harbor Freight sell a cheap ( about .99 the last time I bought 20 pairs on sale, I think) glove with a sticky yellow rubber on the palm and under side of the finger. The rubber will melt if you let the blade get too hot, but better the rubber than your skin. They have a very good grip, and at that price, when the rubber melts, just throw them away. You can also duct tape the burn holes in you want.
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$1.99! And if those work even somewhat ok thats great because we have boxes of these at my work that nobody uses so. Im sure my boss wont mind if I take a handfull :D
 
After catching my glove between the grinder and tool rest (which fortunately tore the finger off the glove not the finger off my hand) I've switched to using black nitrile gloves. I like them especially in post HT grinding because I want to be sensitive to over heating.
 
I also like the black nitrile gloves. I buy them in packs of ten and they hold up a couple of knives. I think they are good enough for heat protection, they're tight and I've never hurt my skin on the grinder since I started using them.
 
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I don't like wearing gloves around fast moving parts. I just use a push stick and can grind a whole pre-heat treatment bevel without dipping once.
 
I took a damascus blade forging class some years back and the instructor encouraged everyone to get the 'Ove Glove. They're not pretty, and your hands will get dirty, but they do give a much better feel than any other forging gloves or mitts. It's a personal preference that I didn't really get into, but most everyone used the 'Ove Gloves for everything from the forge to the grinder. You can get them on the bay for pretty cheap, or on occasion at your local Walgreens.
 
Jackrabbit Slim said:
I took a damascus blade forging class some years back and the instructor encouraged everyone to get the 'Ove Glove. They're not pretty, and your hands will get dirty, but they do give a much better feel than any other forging gloves or mitts. It's a personal preference that I didn't really get into, but most everyone used the 'Ove Gloves for everything from the forge to the grinder. You can get them on the bay for pretty cheap, or on occasion at your local Walgreens.
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I only wear a glove on my back hand when forging, to help with vibration. I was always taught that you didn't wasn't a glove because a hot piece of metal/coal could fly down into the sleeve. I suppose it wouldn't be an issue if it was a tight fit around the wrist.
 
When forging, I wear a half finger glove on my forging hand, and a full insulated glove on my tong hand.

For general work around the shop and yard, I buy metal handling knit safety gloves by the case. I use them when grinding. They wear away and I change them as needed. They cost about $0.50 a pair when bought by the gross.

I NEVER wear them, or any other glove, around rotating machinery. That includes drills, mills, lathes, saws, and similar tools. A glove caught in a rotating tool can cause a serious accident.
 
I'm a big fan of Ansell 11-627 (or any polyurethane-dipped woven dyneema glove). They are very cut resistant, very abrasion resistant, and provide a lot of dexterity. I never had a problem with melting, but I don't like how the woven fabric gets full of steel grit. Occasionally I'll wear nitrile gloves over the Ansells to remedy this problem.
http://www.ansellpro.com/hyflex/11-627.asp
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I NEVER wear them, or any other glove, around rotating machinery. That includes drills, mills, lathes, saws, and similar tools. A glove caught in a rotating tool can cause a serious accident.
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Agreed. For me, that includes the grinder. Examples have been provided in this thread as to why this is a bad idea. Learn to use a push stick, use a spray mister, or just dunk more often.
 
I wear them pre-ht grinding, but mostly doing slack belt/convexed stuff. The edge of an unbacked <60 belt is just like a special finger bandsaw. Never thought of the metal handling gloves for grinding.
 
P.Brewster said:
I'm a big fan of Ansell 11-627 (or any polyurethane-dipped woven dyneema glove). They are very cut resistant, very abrasion resistant, and provide a lot of dexterity. I never had a problem with melting, but I don't like how the woven fabric gets full of steel grit. Occasionally I'll wear nitrile gloves over the Ansells to remedy this problem.
http://www.ansellpro.com/hyflex/11-627.asp
Click to expand...

I wear a similar glove when profiling and really like them.
 
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