Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener?

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Feb 1, 2012
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[video=youtube;CPSi0fzB4cU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPSi0fzB4cU[/video]

(As Work Sharp is a sponsoring Dealer, I believe these Official images are okay?)

This looks promising to me, particularly the simple addition of the angle wedge at each end of the sharpening surface(s).

This newbie is all for constantly checking the developing knife edge for feedback on where the steel is hitting the sharpener, burr formation, etc., but re-gaining the exact same angle upon recommencing remains a challenge.

The other features look promising, too, if obviously sized down for portability.

Thoughts?

~ P.
 
If it works half as good as it looks, they won't be able to keep them in stock.

That looks like a real winner!
 
Very interesting.
Looks like an extremely helpful tool for folks who may need help keeping a consistent angle.
In my opinion, an edge angle does not have to be perfectly uniform to be sharp.

I would be a little concerned about contamination on the strop, however. Setting it on the ground, a fallen tree, etc. could be damaging to the strop and in turn, the edge you wish to refine.
 
The concept looks pretty good, as an all-in-one tool. The one downside (possibly) I see is, the angle guides are fixed at 20°/side only. For some users (maybe most non-knifenuts ;)), that may not be an issue at all. Others might want for something less than 20°/side, such as down to 15°/side. It would've been a nice touch to see 2-position (15/20) adjustability in the angle guides, but perhaps that might be integrated into a future version. ;)
 
Cleaning the ceramic I don't think would be a big problem, as I see it. Some Barkeepers Friend & water, plus a Scotch-Brite pad could be used to clean it in place. Or, if it's not quite filthy, even Comet/Ajax & water, or dish soap & water would also work, as with any ceramics (dish soap & water is actually what Work Sharp recommends, after looking at the online maintenance instructions).

I sort of wish the strop were removable from the unit, or even absent entirely. I'd actually prefer a separate strop; more likely I'd just use my belt. That would facilitate cleaning the whole thing more easily, without possibly contaminating the leather, as mentioned previously. It almost appears the leather is 'rough side up', from what I can see in the video. Some users might wish for a smoother strop. I think in this case, it looks as if they included it just for the most basic of use, for scrubbing away light burrs and such. If it were being used to mirror-polish a highly-refined bevel, I'd be more concerned about contamination, but don't think it would matter much for the edge finish created on this tool (assuming the leather's not completely filthy). Compare to basic stropping on the inside on one's leather belt, which I'm sure isn't all that clean either, in terms of particulates (dirt/dust, etc).
 
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The concept looks pretty good, as an all-in-one tool. The one downside (possibly) I see is, the angle guides are fixed at 20°/side only. For some users (maybe most non-knifenuts ;)), that may not be an issue at all. Others might want for something less than 20°/side, such as down to 15°/side. It would've been a nice touch to see 2-position (15/20) adjustability in the angle guides, but perhaps that might be integrated into a future version. ;)

Could be? Or perhaps interchangeable angle guides. Currently, there are 20° and 25° angles provided, one set on each side (the diamond plates are removable, so you can switch out the coarse and fine grits to use with either angle). 15° and 20° would be nice!

I sort of wish the strop were removable from the unit, or even absent entirely.

Yes, the strop looks the most gimmicky aspect to me as well. Maybe they figure it's better than nothing...?

Regarding the ceramic rods, I just found the following:

WSTips.png


"Ribbed" ceramic.

Hunh.

Going back to (some of the potential) appeal of this device, which looks like a useful pack-along: does anyone else make small angled wedges that would serve the same function on other sharpening surfaces? I suppose if I were handier I could make my own, but I'm thinking small angled pieces to affix to DMT hones (and in that case, affixed via magnets), etc. could be beneficial.

~ P.
 
Could be? Or perhaps interchangeable angle guides. Currently, there are 20° and 25° angles provided, one set on each side (the diamond plates are removable, so you can switch out the coarse and fine grits to use with either angle). 15° and 20° would be nice!

I didn't catch that, the 20/25 options. I'd still wish for 15/20 instead.


Yes, the strop looks the most gimmicky aspect to me as well. Maybe they figure it's better than nothing...?

That's my impression. Just a basic 'burr-scrubber', as I'd view it. But again, that's coming from my somewhat skewed (obsessed) perspective, and I'm sure it could still be useful.


Regarding the ceramic rods, I just found the following: (...)

"Ribbed" ceramic.

Hunh.

My reaction exactly (me scratching head). :confused: No idea what to make of that.


Going back to (some of the potential) appeal of this device, which looks like a useful pack-along: does anyone else make small angled wedges that would serve the same function on other sharpening surfaces? I suppose if I were handier I could make my own, but I'm thinking small angled pieces to affix to DMT hones (and in that case, affixed via magnets), etc. could be beneficial.

I know I've seen something like that, from one of the hone manufacturers (maybe DMT or Smith's; not sure). Don't think it was magnetic or otherwise made to 'stick' in place. Think it was just a little plastic triangle that could be laid upon the hone being used. I know at least a few members here have made/improvised wooden 'wedges' to be used similarly; should be relatively simple to make something.

Edit: Here's a pic of a 'Norton Angle Guide Wedge', two-sided at 12/24 degrees:
12802-z.jpg
 
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Hi P!

I taught a lady friend of mine to sharpen in that last couple years. It took about a week. She learned on a sharpmaker and a strop.

If I may give some advice to you I would keep it brief.

When you sharpen a knife all that you are doing is honing the edge from both sides down to an apex. The thinner the apex the sharper. If you go too thin the apex will not hold up and can form a burr more easily during honing. The best way I have found to teach a beginner to start is to get a SHARPIE. Clean the edge and apply the sharpie to both side of the bevel AND slice the edge from heel to tip into the sharpie to make sure any blunted section of the apex gets it too.

NOW, all you have to do is take a swipe and check. Check often, reapply the sharpie often. I also recommend learning on an opinel carbon. The steel is very receptive to natural stones and ceramics. From what I have found after teaching LOTS of regular joe's to sharpen in person is the BEST thing to do is show them QUICK success.

Once you have sharpened to the point that the sharpie is gone all the way to the apex and you will most likely have a burr. This is another important piece to talk to you about. You need to raise a burr from BOTH sides. Next you need to find a strop which a lot of things can work for in a pinch. This is something that takes skill. The best way I can help you learn this is with some training wheels to get you started. There are a lot of ways to strop, and I am not saying this is the best, BUT it will give you success AND confidence to push forward! Okay, so lay the bevel on the strop lightly and cut edge leading increasing the angle until it bites into the leather and then reverse to edge trailing with FEATHER like force. Do this until there is no burr. You can use newsprint as a quick way to check for burr removal.

Lets say you go slightly overboard stropping, thats OKAY. Go back to your hone and just KISS the apex and this will actually give you very clean micro serrations and NO BURR.

If you follow these steps you will have a sharp knife and the confidence to pursue and practice. You will find what works for you best and your knives will only get sharper over time.

The system you showed look fine, a skilled person can sharpen on just about anything. Its about knowing what your doing and the right touch.

Remember this is SIMPLE!!! Certain steels can complicate things and make sharpening become a more advanced discussion. TRY the OPINEL CARBON please :)

Also, you can get those guides for benchstones. I never used them. When you get good you can hear and feel when you are actually honing the apex. The way I keep my knives sharp? Hone and strop. Nothing like always keeping them sharp and when you have stropped out the microserrations it only takes a couple licks on the stone to bring the already hair popping edge back to a vicious savage sharp edge.

I hope this helps,

Kevin

Also, when you get real good and keep your knives sharp you do not always have to be raising burrs every time. You can just keep that baby honed.

ETA, FOCUS ON SHARP APEX. DO NOT FOCUS ON SHINEY PERFECTION. Too many honing and stropping mistakes come from trying to get a pretty shiny edge to post on a forum. Once you figure out sharp, then TRUST me, those edges will get more impressive to look at. First achieve sharp, then worry about mastering pretty if you still feel like it. I had a lot of people criticize me for putting pretty edges on my knives. Thinking I just went for pretty. Not true, the pretty was a result of sharp and so much practice of keeping a steady hand.
 
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Also, you can just get out a few block of wood and a 99 cent protractor to make your own guides :) If you still feel you need a guide after (and if) you try my suggestions.
 
Hi P!

I taught a lady friend of mine to sharpen in that last couple years. It took about a week. She learned on a sharpmaker and a strop.

I'm guessing it takes the men longer.... :p

If I may give some advice to you I would keep it brief.

Whoa-- thanks for writing all this out.

I understand about the process, goals, etc., at least, I think I do?

My Opinels trick me into thinking I'm better at this than I am. My favorite way to sharpen them to date is to freehand with a crock stick, roughly in the manner of using a knife steel. My, they sharpen up nicely.

Regarding the Work Sharp sharpener in question: I enjoy gadgets and "kit," as t'were, and this looks like an interesting one. And, as I learn to freehand with my knives with different (non-Opinel) blade geometry (mostly meaning wider bevels), the idea of being able to quickly establish/confirm a consistent angle before making strokes is appealing-- especially if I'm lifting the blade regularly to check for Sharpie (or dry erase marker) removal. While I've learned increasingly to go by feel, I also want to be able to reach/confirm certain angles, even up sides, etc. when the starting blade geometry/angle isn't what I want.

Remember this is SIMPLE!!!

That's my goal. :-)

ETA, FOCUS ON SHARP APEX. DO NOT FOCUS ON SHINEY PERFECTION.

No worries there, Chief. My favorite in-use edges so far tend toward the less-refined (if fully apexed), ie, those achieved with medium ceramics, no finer than Fine DMT (and sometimes simply the Coarse), etc.

Also, you can just get out a few block of wood and a 99 cent protractor to make your own guides :) If you still feel you need a guide after (and if) you try my suggestions.

I'm guessing one needs to also cut the wood, yes? Heh. Like I said earlier, if I were handier I'd make up a wedge or three. But even if so, the Work Sharp gadget might still appeal on its own merits.

Thanks for taking the time to write out all that you did.

~ P.
 
Your welcome P. Well, it took me the better part of a decade to really be great at this, so the girl picking it up well enough in a week must prove superior gender! Or a good teacher ;)

I like gadgets too. Usually people do not go looking for gadgets like this unless they are challenged by sharpening.

I will tell you this much I wish someone had written what I just did out to me years ago. I probably would not have listened and still taken a decade to figure such simple concepts out for myself though :)

But, the thing I found about teaching a women VS men was that they seem so much more willing to set pride and ego aside, listen and learn. Her knives are SHARP freehand. Kind of amazing.

Kevin

Oh, and no you could just get some softer wood and sand it down to the angle you want. There is always a way ;)
 
BTW, P, here are a couple shots of one of those pesky wide bevels :)

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A little closer

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I hope to hear how you make out either way you move forward.
 
Ordered one for the pack. Do you think the ceramic rod will be ok for convex edges?
 
Ordered one for the pack. Do you think the ceramic rod will be ok for convex edges?

Any edge (convex or not) can be touched up on a ceramic rod, or by any other conventional means as well. Just go about it very lightly, as the small contact area will exert a lot of pressure against the edge, which can roll or chip it.
 
Interesting. I'll be interested in hearing folks' opinions once they get them in hand.
 
I have it and quickly sharpened a knife just to see how it works. IT won't replace an edge pro, but my use is for hunting trips where everyone says hey, can you sharpen this. It packs small enough to keep in my pack. I like it and it is not that expensive.
 
just bought one. We will see if it is just a gimmick or a really good sharpener for in the field.
I'm hoping for some reviews. It can take a while for my review. I live in The Netherlands
 
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