Working with Bison horn

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Jan 27, 2008
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I was given this pair of horns, but haven't a clue on how to work with this material. Handle material is the goal. Can it be cut and straightened(steaming)? Is the white bone(??) in the center usable?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Peter

 
The skull bone isn't of much use. Cut lengthwise into halves, removing the bone core ( it will likely just fall out when cut)
The horn is solid for the last half of the horn. If the horns are big enough, you can split them and use the solid part as-is for scales.
If you want a stick tang solid handle ( works well with horn), cut off the tip end where it is about 3/4" thick, and then cut off about 4-5" back to make the handle ( usually at the point where the horn starts to curve). You may or may not have a little bone in the fat end. If the bone core is solidly attached, just leave it there. If it is loose, remove it and fill the hollow with resin. A butt cap will hide the recess if there is one.

The above will cut the horn into the solid and the hollow parts.

To flatten the hollow part of the horn into scales, make a flattening jig from pieces of 2X6 and C-clamps. Cool completely for several hours in the clamps before taking out to check flatness.

As for the flattening, the horn needs to be heated up to become pliable. There are several methods. So start with the simplest and work down the list until one works

Boil the halves for 30 minutes to an hour, remove one at a time and clamp between the boards. Slowly tighten clamps. If the horn gets pliable enough, this will work. It may still be too stiff to flatten.

Bake at 240F for 30-45 minutes and try flattening. If it gets pliable, good. If it softens somewhat, try raising the temp 10 degrees and repeat. Go up to 260F if needed.

If it still isn't working, put in a pan of sand and bake at 275-300F for 30-45 minutes.

You may have to repeat several times, and occasionally overbend the scales to keep then straight once cooled. Even then, they tend to warp and twist in sanding if you get them hot.

I am sure there are others who have their preferred methods, and they will add their experiences.
 
As you heat & work these horns prepare for but embrace the foul aroma released...
:barf:
 
Haha... I remember the first time I cut horns. The smell from hell still haunts me to this day... I guess I'm just a sensitive guy. ;)
 
So I have made a lot of powder horns from cow and bison for fur trade trade reenactors and ongoing issue with this material is it ages and almost splinters on the surface. If you look at the raw texture that runs length wise that is what I am referring to. You have to work deep past that surface and then seal well or with time and moisture it will be back. It does not behave the same as cow or water buffalo horn that is much thicker and doesn't seem to end with the same surface texture issues. I'll post a pic tonight of a horn that was glossy black and waxed heavily and the texture came back. Chris


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Winterbear - Thank you for your input. What product would is used to "seal" block/slab of this horn? Oil? Lacquer? Wax?

-Peter
 
Haha... I remember the first time I cut horns. The smell from hell still haunts me to this day... I guess I'm just a sensitive guy. ;)

Likewise, I personally have passed on working Horn or bone since then but I do keep a nice size chunk around the shop to work when a Guest in my shop has over stayed their welcome! Works like a charm!;)
 
Here is that horn I was talking about. If you notice the end where I carved is still shiny and smooth where the main body has the lines and texture like the raw horn hope this helps Chris .
8070ff1d25eaf2e893705a9d5769803f.jpg
70b7ffc83823800c6cabb2aad1804070.jpg



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