Working with G10 for handle material

marthinus

marthinus

Joined
Dec 10, 2006
Messages
5,944
Hi everyone.

I am in the process of making my first fix blade and need to start with the handle shortly. I am considering G10 (I have a bright orange and blue-black). I however do not have a clue on how to cut this out of the slab of G10. I have minimal tools so I have to make due. Am I correct in assuming:

1. I can use a fine saw to cut out the general shape of the handle
2. Use sandpaper and files to do finer contours
3. Use sandpaper and files to ad grooves into the face of the slab to offer more traction when in use?

Thank you in advance for any advice and recommendations. (Internet access is limited)
 
1. correct
2. correct
3. correct

Now get to work and finish your knife !

*and don't forget to post pics when it's done :D*

Good luck !
 
Invest in a good mask. Breathing G-10 dust is very hazardous. It is better to cut slowly and sand wet to minimize airborn dust.
 
I would add in addition to a respirator , do it in your garage or something with ventilation , the dust is horrible nasty. :D

Tostig
 
Just in case these guys haven't convinced you. get a respirator.

Good ventilation is nice as well.

I haven't tried wetting, but I sure will now.
 
A wet tile saw is the best way to work it- WITH a respirator.
I hate the stuff! I can't see any real advantage to using it, versus the danger and trouble.
 
I've made knife handles using G10 . I wear a respirator and goggles in a well vented area and still my eyes burn for days . The stuff is heavy and doesn't grip any better than any better than micarta and is less economical . Then the maker has the health hazards to deal with . DM
 
Thank you everyone for the replies. I did not know it has such a health risk to it. I love working with wood, but wanted to give G10 a try. Thank you for all the advise and I WILL buy a respirator.
 
So micarta is supposed to be a lot better than G10 in regards to health? I can't imagine either one being good for you since it is some fiber in a resin?

Some exotic woods are also pretty toxic. You should wear a resirator anytime a fine dust is being produced.

I have tried working with G10 and it is pretty hard to cut and work. Take your time and use new sharp sandpaper.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
So micarta is supposed to be a lot better than G10 in regards to health? I can't imagine either one being good for you since it is some fiber in a resin?
Click to expand...

I'm not going to say that Micarta is a lot better, because it's pretty bad in itself. G10 is really bad, though. This is because even large particles of fiberglass can make it into your lungs where they can do a lot of damage.

I find that G10 is difficult to cut, but easy to sand/grind. I'm using a diamond saw from now on. The fiberglass will ruin any toothed saws you have (don't ask how I know :o). Adding texture with needle files isn't too difficult. Just use a round file followed by a sandpaper-wrapped rod.
 
That is the big difference in health risks between micarta and G-10. Micarta uses fabric or paper where G-10 uses glass fibers, so the micarta dust is less likely to lodge in the walls of your lungs and conduct toxins directly into your bloodstream the way fiberglass (or asbestos) fibers do. Both use resins that can give off toxic compounds when heated, even friction heated by a saw blade. As noted, the fiberglass in G-10 is very hard, and ruins steel blades in a hurry. The best way I have found for cutting shapes out of sheet stock is a Rotozip tool with a tile bit. Do it in a well-ventilated area and use a good respirator.
 
sorry to bring back the dead but I would like to know if wax can be used to shine up g10 after final sanding since I don't own a buffing wheel or anything
 
Last edited:
I normally use Renaissance Wax for the final top coat on most scales. It makes a nice thin seal and can be buffed to a very high polish. You can use it on the blades as well for corrosion control. Great stuff.

TedP
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top