Worksharp Ken Onion Edition Review

I have been told by two esteemed knife makers that this can burn the heat treat out. Truth? I do not know. Only what I was told by two unrelated reputable sources. I would use this on low end kitchen knives. I would not use it on high end custom folders. YMMV I guess.

I started thinking about that also. I will probably sell my WSKOWBGA or give it away when I buy a larger belt grinder. I can reprofile/sharpen nearly everything including convex edges with my WE130. I still need to buy the scissor and chisel adapters for it though.
 
Your comments stitchawl remind me that folks with multiple sharpening systems populate BF:thumbsup:. Folks who sharpen professionally report lots of knives not well maintained. It would be interesting to build a report comparing their experiences with that of Blade Show's "birds of a feather."

Commercially I sharpen nowhere near the volume of some of the BF pros, but have done plenty. You are lucky if the knife has simply been used to the point of extreme dullness with maybe a ding or chip. if it has been poorly sharpened repeatedly are the worst because you have to correct the geometry first.

In many cases (kitchen knives) the bolster has to be ground back. The blade might need to be straightened (I have a small vise with three adjustable contact points just for doing this). The tip will need to be reformed. You need a very coarse stone or moderately coarse belt and as few progressions as one can get away with. Aside from a stropping belt, I use no abrasives higher than a 220 as it isn't good use of time and grind quality for the work that gets done.

As to the burned edge discussion it is entirely preventable. Worn abrasives are the #1 culprit. Running too slow can cause more problems than it solves and reduces belt life, save it for the diamond coated abrasives. Doing too much work with belts much above 220, esp as you get closer to 800, 1000+ grit - these heat the edge more rapidly than a 120 grit belt and need a close eye on contact time etc, also belt condition becomes increasingly important. A worn 1000 grit belt will cook your edge in a heartbeat.
 
Thx for tips and experiences with customer knives HeavyHanded, It was weird, last night I used the WSKO on 7 assorted knives, knife edges nor motor housing got hot? Using non OEM belts this time, sold and shipped by big river: 120 Zirconium, 240 n 400 "Aluminum Oxide", and 1000 grit SIC.
I will report out with pics later.
Anyone use Red Label Abrasives belts on any of your grinders?
 
Commercially I sharpen nowhere near the volume of some of the BF pros, but have done plenty. You are lucky if the knife has simply been used to the point of extreme dullness with maybe a ding or chip. if it has been poorly sharpened repeatedly are the worst because you have to correct the geometry first.

In many cases (kitchen knives) the bolster has to be ground back. The blade might need to be straightened (I have a small vise with three adjustable contact points just for doing this). The tip will need to be reformed. You need a very coarse stone or moderately coarse belt and as few progressions as one can get away with. Aside from a stropping belt, I use no abrasives higher than a 220 as it isn't good use of time and grind quality for the work that gets done.

As to the burned edge discussion it is entirely preventable. Worn abrasives are the #1 culprit. Running too slow can cause more problems than it solves and reduces belt life, save it for the diamond coated abrasives. Doing too much work with belts much above 220, esp as you get closer to 800, 1000+ grit - these heat the edge more rapidly than a 120 grit belt and need a close eye on contact time etc, also belt condition becomes increasingly important. A worn 1000 grit belt will cook your edge in a heartbeat.

If I remember right, I heard some recommend using worn belts as strops. But the more I thought about everything, I went ahead and splurged to buy my WE130 and used my WS less and less. But the WS is still good for fitting firing pins, making slave pins, and cleaning up small steel parts. But as soon as I get a decent belt grinder I'll have no more use for the WS.
 
Thx for tips and experiences with customer knives HeavyHanded, It was weird, last night I used the WSKO on 7 assorted knives, knife edges nor motor housing got hot? Using non OEM belts this time, sold and shipped by big river: 120 Zirconium, 240 n 400 "Aluminum Oxide", and 1000 grit SIC.
I will report out with pics later.
Anyone use Red Label Abrasives belts on any of your grinders?

Yes but the very edge of a blade is so small with a very small amount of steel that it can heat up and then cool down faster than you could tell it. You would have to have a high-dollar fast speed thermal camera to catch it. How hot could the very apex of the edge get using a dry belt? I don't know. But it would be very interesting for someone who has the tools and ability to check it out.
 
Thx for tips and experiences with customer knives HeavyHanded, It was weird, last night I used the WSKO on 7 assorted knives, knife edges nor motor housing got hot? Using non OEM belts this time, sold and shipped by big river: 120 Zirconium, 240 n 400 "Aluminum Oxide", and 1000 grit SIC.
I will report out with pics later.
Anyone use Red Label Abrasives belts on any of your grinders?


Sounds good, just keep tabs on the belt condition. It isn't that it can't be done, but that the belts, once worn, act with more burnishing action than scratch grinding. A new belt is not an issue, deciding when to ditch one, is.
 
I would simply destroy a knife with a grinder. So I have the WE130. I am having difficulty getting the hang of it. Well, I am a very old man and I just don't have great dexterity. I am doing my best with it. The only real bad thing that happened yet is I scratched a very expensive fixed blade. I got stops though. I just have to take it slow. I cannot use it in 20 seconds. There is no hurry anyway. There is a guy nearby me that works on a grinder. He sharpened some tools for me. He did a splendid job. I would turn anything into dust. Although I know it is a different world than Work Sharp. there is no comparison. Work Sharp is a consumer product in the Hardware store. It has it's place. everything has it's place. It just requires more skill to operate a grinder. The WE130 should be fairly safe now that I have the stops. No one is doing volume on a WE130 though. Before that as I mentioned I used stones and a Sharpmaker. You folks are in a different league than I am! For the price I would like to try the Ken onion. I fear what might occur. They are dirt cheap at a store up here.
 
I would simply destroy a knife with a grinder. So I have the WE130. I am having difficulty getting the hang of it. Well, I am a very old man and I just don't have great dexterity. I am doing my best with it. The only real bad thing that happened yet is I scratched a very expensive fixed blade. I got stops though. I just have to take it slow. I cannot use it in 20 seconds. There is no hurry anyway. There is a guy nearby me that works on a grinder. He sharpened some tools for me. He did a splendid job. I would turn anything into dust. Although I know it is a different world than Work Sharp. there is no comparison. Work Sharp is a consumer product in the Hardware store. It has it's place. everything has it's place. It just requires more skill to operate a grinder. The WE130 should be fairly safe now that I have the stops. No one is doing volume on a WE130 though. Before that as I mentioned I used stones and a Sharpmaker. You folks are in a different league than I am! For the price I would like to try the Ken onion. I fear what might occur. They are dirt cheap at a store up here.

If you go slow and are deliberate it's really not going to be that bad. Often what I will do to verify my angle of attack before putting it on the higher abrasive belts is to put on the least abrasive belt, sharpie up the edge the same as you would for a sharpmaker etc, and see how i am doing. Then just go very slow and be light with your pressure and you can get some pretty impressive results. My Ken Onion BGA has tunred more and more into a powered strop to restore edges after light use, or something that i tend to use on my more heavily used fixed blades. For refined polished edges I will turn to the KME but to get a quick working edge on a blade of any thickness or any length its hard to beat the KOWS with the BGA for the price.
 
I would simply destroy a knife with a grinder. So I have the WE130. I am having difficulty getting the hang of it. Well, I am a very old man and I just don't have great dexterity. I am doing my best with it. The only real bad thing that happened yet is I scratched a very expensive fixed blade. I got stops though. I just have to take it slow. I cannot use it in 20 seconds. There is no hurry anyway. There is a guy nearby me that works on a grinder. He sharpened some tools for me. He did a splendid job. I would turn anything into dust. Although I know it is a different world than Work Sharp. there is no comparison. Work Sharp is a consumer product in the Hardware store. It has it's place. everything has it's place. It just requires more skill to operate a grinder. The WE130 should be fairly safe now that I have the stops. No one is doing volume on a WE130 though. Before that as I mentioned I used stones and a Sharpmaker. You folks are in a different league than I am! For the price I would like to try the Ken onion. I fear what might occur. They are dirt cheap at a store up here.

I say the same thing about reprofiling/sharpening that I say about anything - study as much info as you can to make sure that you are developing good habits, so that you will do them automatically. You don't want to start out learning bad habits. So, study and take your time to develop good habits with your WE130 and you'll be making some sharp and perfect edges.
 
So gathered 6 folders and a boning knife (thrift store gem) from family and went at it, though I turned up WSKO speed to middle on dial. Went from 120 to 1000 with new belts referenced elsewhere, then added 4 more folders for power stropping as c7m2p3 does. Stropped everything, first 4 and 2 micron, then 12k with .5 stropping compound (aluminum and titanium oxide). Started after dinner and visiting, finished before 930. I'm floored, 21 knives with lots of different steel, 3 evenings, all sharp, wow quick...
Small knives stropped were a Benchmade Rosewood Shoki and a small Emissary. The KME edge off 1500 on a Ruckus got sharper off 12k power stropping. I will report more details n pics later.
 
I know this is off topic here. The other thread is over. I just wanted to inform I figured out the WE130. I re profiled a S125V blade from 25 degrees to 22 degrees(inclusive) and got it insane sharp. No chips, burrs.
 
I know this is off topic here. The other thread is over. I just wanted to inform I figured out the WE130. I re profiled a S125V blade from 25 degrees to 22 degrees(inclusive) and got it insane sharp. No chips, burrs.

Do you really mean 'inclusive'? That would be 11dps. But congratulations! I'm glad that you are having success. What kind of knife is it?
 
No, 22 degrees on each side. My bad. It is a local guy. He just does it in his spare time. I am very pleased with that knife. It is not a Michael Walker obviously. It is pretty good though. Plus you cannot get S125V everywhere. That stuff is difficult to sharpen. Let alone re profile. I am sure it would have went much faster on a belt. I kind of want the Ken Onion now. As I said an outlet store out here has them for nothing. I am not sure I should mention the price. I am happy because it got super sharp. I do not know why they put steep profiles on this series of steels. Mine won't chip. I just cut paper. I was about to EDC a 940-1. Maybe this instead. The blade is 2.73". I had mentioned I don't have a darn phone. I cheaped out on the insurance.
 
No, 22 degrees on each side. My bad. It is a local guy. He just does it in his spare time. I am very pleased with that knife. It is not a Michael Walker obviously. It is pretty good though. Plus you cannot get S125V everywhere. That stuff is difficult to sharpen. Let alone re profile. I am sure it would have went much faster on a belt. I kind of want the Ken Onion now. As I said an outlet store out here has them for nothing. I am not sure I should mention the price. I am happy because it got super sharp. I do not know why they put steep profiles on this series of steels. Mine won't chip. I just cut paper. I was about to EDC a 940-1. Maybe this instead. The blade is 2.73". I had mentioned I don't have a darn phone. I cheaped out on the insurance.

I need to get a set of the 50/80 stones for reprofiling as soon as I can afford them. Just reprofiling with the 100 grit stone sometimes takes a while. I don't have a knife with S125V steel.
 
I picked up a few SIC like that at ACE on Black Friday for 2 bucks each! S125V takes a while on anything. Even S90V takes longer than S110V. I actually think the best EDC is S90V. I don't think we will be seeing a lot of consumer knives with S125V. For a moment they had S145V but they cancelled it and I am glad. I could not imagine putting an edge on that. This stuff is all a game for us nerds here. It is going to get much too hard at some point. Plus most knives will not use these steels. They have AUS8 and the like. Most people do not even purchase any Benchmade let alone CRK. I am just saying if they keep going, even we won't be able able to work with the blades. Honestly something like VG-10 is a good steel. Sharpen it more but 4 swipes on the Diamond stone. Heck, if you knew the price I think I will get the Ken Onion Work Sharp today. I will use it for stropping and buffing. I doubt I would sharpen on it. I never used motorized sharpeners. I could not justify a grinder. Besides, most knife makers use belts.
 
I think most call them 'belt grinders'. But yes, they use belts. I'm going with 3V on my EDC and main knives. I'll never sharpen one of my good knives on my WSKOWBGA. I can use my WE130 if I decide to put a convex apex on a knife.
 
So, I got the Ken Onion Work Sharp this morning. Like I said I would only use it for final scary sharp. Stropping and buffing. I would not sharpen a knife on it. Since we do not have any $5 knives here. I tried it on some super steel knives just done on the WE130. It indeed gave them a thinner edge. I do not know if that is bad or good. In layman's terms it made them "sharper". Honestly, the Work Sharp is built like a toy compared to the Wicked Edge. I got it so cheap I hardly care.

I know for sure that Chris Reeve puts the edge on all his products with large belt grinders. That is why he went to S35VN. It does not wear out the belts like S30V does.
 
So, I got the Ken Onion Work Sharp this morning. Like I said I would only use it for final scary sharp. Stropping and buffing. I would not sharpen a knife on it. Since we do not have any $5 knives here. I tried it on some super steel knives just done on the WE130. It indeed gave them a thinner edge. I do not know if that is bad or good. In layman's terms it made them "sharper". Honestly, the Work Sharp is built like a toy compared to the Wicked Edge. I got it so cheap I hardly care.

I know for sure that Chris Reeve puts the edge on all his products with large belt grinders. That is why he went to S35VN. It does not wear out the belts like S30V does.

There are many kinds of Work Sharp sharpeners. Mine is the WSKOWBGA - Work Sharp Ken Onion with Blade Grinding Attachment. Is that the one you have? If so, it puts a convex edge on your knives. Even without the BGA it will put a convex edge on your knives.
 
Ok, good. That's the one that I have except I have the original attachment also, but I rarely use it. But when I do use it I use the BGA. It will put convex edges on your blades. I decided against putting convex edges on my blades just in case I ever need to freehand with a stone. I never learned how to freehand convex edges.
 
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