Worksharp Ken Onion Edition Review

I do not plan to sharpen with it and certainly not grind. I am going to get some strop and buffer belts. I am just going to use this for finishing the scary sharp edges. Abrasives will not get the edge that thin. I don't want to say but this outlet place had it so cheap I am pleased. What he had left will be gone tonight anyway. Ours are the same? The model numbers are completely different. I was thinking yours was way better.
 
They look the same to me except that they have the clear top pulleys now. IDK. I bought mine and added the BGA a few weeks or so before they came out with the one you have. Either that or I just didn't see it. Oh well. I pretty much only use my WSKO for fitting firing pins, making slave pins for reassembling some firearms, and grinding and polishing steel parts.
As soon as I buy a proper belt sander, I'll either sell it or give it away. I might just put it in storage for my grandkids, IDK.
But I can reprofile/sharpen/strop with my WE130 and also do a better job at it.
I enjoy using my WE130 - I'm like Qui Chang Caine when I get to using it. :)
I just don't trust belt grinders. The edge apex is a very small amount of steel, and it doesn't take very much to overheat it. Plus you have to be careful because they can remove a lot of steel. With my WE130 I only remove as much steel as I need to. And I don't have to worry about overheating the edge apex and ruining the heat-treat. It's possible that I'm overreacting, but I don't care. I have a WE130, so, why not use it??
 
Sheez come on man. A Worksharp Ken Onion is awesome. Provided you do a few things to prevent overheating and removing too much steel.
1. Take your time and do 2 to 4 passes on whatever grit you need. Then set it down a minute. No overheated edges.
2. Don't press down hard on the knife when grinding. Let the knife's own weight do the work. Pressing too hard on the blade can cause overheating and uneven edges.
3. Check your belts to make sure they are not worn down. As a worn belt can cause overheating quicker than a good belt. If you must use a worn belt. Do 2 passes on each side and set the knife down for a minute to cool.
4. Quit making a mountain out of a mole hill. And overthinking everything.
5. Practice on a few cheap kitchen knives, Until you get used to the features and develop a consistent method and learn to control your pull on the belts to properly sharpen. Also be sure to properly adjust your angles to match your blade.
6. If necessary or if you are paranoid about overheating your blade. Get a bucket of cold water to dip your blade in on every 1 or 2 passes on your knife. Wipe dry, and sharpen another pass or 2. And repeat the other steps.
7. Practice on a cheap beat up kitchen knife. If you don't have one. Go to a thrift store and pick one up for $1 or $2.
8.Once again. Quit overthinking everything.

Seriously man. I am reading some of these posts like the Ken Onion Worksharp is the worst enemy of knives.
I did 3 knives today. Including a Spanish kitchen knife hardened to Rockwell 61 - 63.
I not only sharpened them but I also did an entire tip repair on one knife and reground the edges to their proper angle since they were wrongly sharpened in past.
After I did that I tested each knife cutting chicken and beef bones on a proper cutting board. Not one knife rolled or chipped on me.
I am very thankful to have bought the Ken Onion Worksharp today and within 5 minutes of practice, patience, and common sense. I got razor sharp mirror edges on all 3 of my Godmothers badly neglected and dull knives.

Sorry but I have to disagree with those who find the Worksharp to be overheating their blades or too hard to learn how to use.
My Godmother who can't sharpen a knife to save her life can use this.
This is the single best investment I have made and screw the stones and sharp makers. WorkSharp blows all that stuff away and is easier to use.
As long as you use it properly and have some common sense. I doubt Ken Onion would endorse a product that was trash as his name and legacy as a knife maker
Is on the line.

I will just say this much and sorry if I come off as crass or offensive. But if you are ruining your knives sharpening them on a Ken Onion Worksharp. You may need to put the blame on yourself and practice on your sharpening instead of blaming the tool and manufacturer.
This product has saved me tons of time and $50 in going to the professional sharpener to regrind and sharpen. And my results as a novice easily match his professional work.
I have no fear of using this on an expensive knife. Short of a Custom $1000 on up.
 
scottc3 said:
Got a WSKO off exchange here, motivated by a sons glowing report after using one for almost 3 years running a ranch. I just ran through seven cheapo thrift store kitchen knives and three folders (Ganzo 440c, Boker+440c, and Buck s35vn) in two sessions. Woohoo, dang fast, really sharp (the OEM belts had already seen use from the previous owner). Threw away a bread knife when I realized the blade was twisted and it had shaved a small edge off the course 65µ (220 grit) belt. The other six "stainless steel" blades are sharper coming off the medium belt then with our Presto Pro Eversharp 08810 three stone electric sharpener, which we always left on the thin blade guide, for the ~28 to 30 degrees measured.

With the WSKO set at 40 degrees and the lowest power, I went after the 7 kitchen knives thru the medium belt-1000 grit 22µ. Kitchen knives got seriously sharp quickly! Then I honed the 3 folders, being mindful of WS's 1 hour service limit, and not being in a hurry.

The BUCK Marksman Inferno in s35vn was not dull, but not as screaming sharp as when I got it. Also Steve from skblades- a BF sponsor, (or Buck), put a perfect matched edge on the Inferno that I had maintained. So I sharpied the bevels and ran thru 4µ (3k grit) and 2µ (6k) belts. The WSKO honed both bevels exactly. With just my eyes, no magnification, the belts knocked off sharpie creating black lines, starting at the edge / apex and proceeding as straight lines up to the shoulder of both bevels. Each black line was separated by a field cleaned of sharpie. I'm guessing an artifact of the facory sharpening and consistancy of s35vn. Being careful, gentle and slow brought Bucks s35vn back to scary sharp.

I was surprised by how small the unit was, and how dense it felt. With a 1.5 Amp motor and lots of well engineered plastics, it was heavier and smaller then pics and vids led me to believe. Because I have limited use of one hand, it took three belt changes before I could easily swap them out. Other manipulations like using the knife blade rest and guide fence consistently, rotating the fence out of the way, pressing the power lock out button with the trigger pulled, and adjusting the variable speed dial took a little practice and a few moments to use easily.

Instructions are only for beginning knife sharpeners, some I imagine may be surprised by how quickly and how sharp they get their knives. Practice first on cheap knives because electric power is going to make your knives and tools sharp, but electric powered sharpeners also destroy things or damage knives really really fast. I mean in the moment your not paying attention, or just before you need stitches. It's sharp when you don't feel the slice... Use the cheat sheet on the box, and read the tiny manual and tell the family to be careful because the knives are sharp. If you've made it to this review you already know about BladeForums, which is a great place for motivated folks to learn more. Use the search feature and read through threads of interest in the various forums to learn more.

OEM BELT KIT- Specs reported by WS.
√ Extra Coarse Grit RED 120 GRIT - Norton SG
√ Coarse Grit GREY X65 220 GRIT, 65 µ - Norax
√ Medium GREY X22 1000 GRIT, 22µ - Norax
√ Fine Grit WHITE X4 3000 GRIT, 4µ - Norax
√ Extra Fine Grit PURPLE 6000 GRIT, 2µ - SIC

WS also lists the following for their Ken Onion Edition Worksharp: red P80 grit, grey x45 400 grit, and 2 ceramic knife belts- one of which is a red p220 grit ceramic (equivalent to x65).
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Great post buddy. I bought a Ken Onoion Worksharp today and within 5 minutes of practice on a cheap knife I was sharpening like a pro. I love mine.
 
I don't think that I'm overthinking anything. The apex of an edge is only a few microns of steel. It can overheat and then cool down within seconds. The rest of the blade in this context is immaterial.
 
000Robert said:
I don't think that I'm overthinking anything. The apex of an edge is only a few microns of steel. It can overheat and then cool down within seconds. The rest of the blade in this context is immaterial.
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Sharpen how you want. But Don't blame the tool for improper technique. The Worksharp Ken Onion does not burn edges if used properly. Sorry I disagree but these old wives tales and overthinking what ifs only serve to create a problem that largely does not exist. Slanders a business and hurts their name and sales, And shits on Ken Onion's name and reputation himself.

If you are overheating your blade you alone are to blame.
 
Mr opinionated said:
Sharpen how you want. But Don't blame the tool for improper technique. The Worksharp Ken Onion does not burn edges if used properly. Sorry I disagree but these old wives tales and overthinking what ifs only serve to create a problem that largely does not exist. Slanders a business and hurts their name and sales, And shits on Ken Onion's name and reputation himself.

If you are overheating your blade you alone are to blame.
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So, your opinion is valid, but mine isn't? I'm mainly referring to dry belts used in sharpening edges and not to any particular system. And I don't worship any man. I was actually hoping that someone had done some study into this and would comment. But you would probably need a high dollar high speed thermal microscope camera to document whether it matters or not. If you can't discuss the topic rationally then I have nothing more to say.
 
000Robert said:
So, your opinion is valid, but mine isn't? I'm mainly referring to dry belts used in sharpening edges and not to any particular system. And I don't worship any man. I was actually hoping that someone had done some study into this and would comment. But you would probably need a high dollar high speed thermal microscope camera to document whether it matters or not. If you can't discuss the topic rationally then I have nothing more to say.
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OK we both know Overheating an edge would cause chips and bad edge holding. I just took a knife I did with my Ken Onion Worksharp and smacked it 5 times hard into a proper hard plastic cutting board with beef and chicken bones. No edge chips, loss of edge holding ability, or deformation.
I do not speak from opinion. I speak from facts and using the Ken Onion Worksharp. So yes I have done study into this. You speak from an opinion and fabrication of truth. And no matter what anyone else says. Even those who own it you act like you know more about sharpening and the cons of a Worksharp despite never owning one. The only irrational person on this topic is yourself and your redundant untruthful claims you try to present as fact. Sorry but I happen to respect Worksharp and Ken Onion. And trust their experience with sharpening and knife making expertise over yours and your hyperbole claims.
 
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Chefget said:
Love my KOWS, and I have or have had just about every other sharpening system on the planet :D
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I just got a KOWS last night. And It saved my godmothers kitchen knives that needed not only sharpening but re profiling of the edge. They went from dull as butter knives and years of improper sharpening to perfect edges and slicing through paper from a push cut.

And it is so easy a novice could use it within 5 minutes and obtain edges that rival a professional sharpener.
Hell the 3 knives I redid saved me $50 In a professional blade reprofiling and sharpening. And done paid for nearly 1/3 the cost of the investment.
Best investment I made in the last 5 years.
 
Mr opinionated said:
OK we both know Overheating an edge would cause chips and bad edge holding. I just took a knife I did with my Ken Onion Worksharp and smacked it 5 times hard into a proper hard plastic cutting board with beef and chicken bones. No edge chips, loss of edge holding ability, or deformation.
I do not speak from opinion. I speak from facts and using the Ken Onion Worksharp. So yes I have done study into this. You speak from an opinion and fabrication of truth. And no matter what anyone else says. Even those who own it you act like you know more about sharpening and the cons of a Worksharp despite now owning one. The only irrational person on this topic is yourself and your redundant untruthful claims you try to present as fact. Sorry but I happen to respect Worksharp and Ken Onion. And trust their experience with sharpening and knife making expertise over yours and your hyperbole claims.
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I was just asking about the possibility, not making any claims because I can't prove it. Just curiosity more than anything. But your test is valid. If the edge was overheated then it should have chips after doing that. Perhaps I was completely wrong. I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers. I was actually hoping that someone tested the idea and we would see some cool videos.
I'm sure that I'm not the only person that ever thought about the possibility of overheating the apex of an edge since it is such a small area of steel. I even mentioned that I was curious if even a Wicked Edge stone could create enough heat to such a small area of steel in a single pass. I meant no disrespect to any particular system, or person.
But I'll acknowledge that smacking the edge into hard stuff is a valid test.
 
000Robert said:
I was just asking about the possibility, not making any claims because I can't prove it. Just curiosity more than anything. But your test is valid. If the edge was overheated then it should have chips after doing that. Perhaps I was completely wrong. I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers. I was actually hoping that someone tested the idea and we would see some cool videos.
I'm sure that I'm not the only person that ever thought about the possibility of overheating the apex of an edge since it is such a small area of steel. I even mentioned that I was curious if even a Wicked Edge stone could create enough heat to such a small area of steel in a single pass. I meant no disrespect to any particular system, or person.
But I'll acknowledge that smacking the edge into hard stuff is a valid test.
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Sorry If I came off harsh and a bit of a jerk know it all. I can just honestly say this much. From my experiences. My KOWS has performed admirably. I can't afford a thermal microscope so lemme see if I can find info on overheating. I got some Coffee in me and If I find any info I will post you a link.
 
I have a worksharp and the blade grinding attachment (I've had these a long time ), works great I still prefer my hapstone with diamond plates

But I will say I still use the original attachment with skinny belts for my recurve knives , that's where the system shines for me
 
Mr opinionated said:
Sorry If I came off harsh and a bit of a jerk know it all. I can just honestly say this much. From my experiences. My KOWS has performed admirably. I can't afford a thermal microscope so lemme see if I can find info on overheating. I got some Coffee in me and If I find any info I will post you a link.
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That's cool. I just saw passion, I didn't think you were coming off as a jerk. Sometimes I come off as a jerk though. I tried googling it a while back and couldn't find anything. I think that I mentioned before that I used my WSKOWBGA on our kitchen knives and I haven't heard the girls complaining about anything. It would be cool if there are any thermal imaging videos where we could see if there's any color changes at the apex during sharpening.
 
I'm no authority on using the WSKO but I've used the BGA to sharpen a good number of knives, since receiving mine. I just take my time, use the weight of the blade and make multiple passes. I check the edge frequently, and I figure if the heat generated doesn't cause me any discomfort in handling and checking the blade edge, it's unlikely it's affecting the heat treat. Most of what I've sharpened are kitchen knives, Shun and others. I have sharpened a few S30V hunting knives with the same results and success.
 
Mr opinionated said:
Sorry If I came off harsh and a bit of a jerk know it all. I can just honestly say this much. From my experiences. My KOWS has performed admirably. I can't afford a thermal microscope so lemme see if I can find info on overheating. I got some Coffee in me and If I find any info I will post you a link.
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The fact that belt sharpening is bad for edge longevity due to overheating has already been proven time and time again. CATRA testing has proven the fact. Larrin Thomas has a good article on the subject.

That's exactly the reason why most knife edges improve in durability after a few times sharpening on a whetstone.

The edge is infinitely thin to get it as sharp as possible and the friction of a dry belt (even if slow) is enough to bring the temperature to well above tempering temperature in a matter of milliseconds. You'll never feel it happening because it's happening at the very edge of the edge. Belt grinding with constant water flow is another story altogether, that won't affect the edge.

Not saying there is no place for dry belt sharpening, it's still the quickest and easiest way to save time and money and any large scale knife producer would be crazy to hand sharpen every knife they sell but the facts don't lie - it's not good for your edge holding longevity.
 
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777 Edge said:
The fact that belt sharpening is bad for edge longevity due to overheating has already been proven time and time again. CATRA testing has proven the fact. Larrin Thomas has a good article on the subject.

That's exactly the reason why most knife edges improve in durability after a few times sharpening on a whetstone.

The edge is infinitely thin to get it as sharp as possible and the friction of a dry belt (even if slow) is enough to bring the temperature to well above tempering temperature in a matter of milliseconds. You'll never feel it happening because it's happening at the very edge of the edge. Belt grinding with constant water flow is another story altogether, that won't affect the edge.

Not saying there is no place for dry belt sharpening, it's still the quickest and easiest way to save time and money and any large scale knife producer would be crazy to hand sharpen every knife they sell but the facts don't lie - it's not good for your edge holding longevity.
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Good information. I learned something today.
 
777 Edge said:
The fact that belt sharpening is bad for edge longevity due to overheating has already been proven time and time again. CATRA testing has proven the fact. Larrin Thomas has a good article on the subject.

That's exactly the reason why most knife edges improve in durability after a few times sharpening on a whetstone.

The edge is infinitely thin to get it as sharp as possible and the friction of a dry belt (even if slow) is enough to bring the temperature to well above tempering temperature in a matter of milliseconds. You'll never feel it happening because it's happening at the very edge of the edge. Belt grinding with constant water flow is another story altogether, that won't affect the edge.

Not saying there is no place for dry belt sharpening, it's still the quickest and easiest way to save time and money and any large scale knife producer would be crazy to hand sharpen every knife they sell but the facts don't lie - it's not good for your edge holding longevity.
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If you run the knife hard and oversharpen or allow it to get hot and overdo it. Then yes it can be overheated.
And I tested this with a cheap knife and felt some heat from the blade from going overboard on it.

First off. I dare say your so called facts are wrong in some aspects (Not All). My reasoning is listed in the following long rant and rebuttal.
I run a knife at medium to fast speed with good belts not worn out for 1 or 2 passes and set it down a few or dunk the blade in water after every pass. Then repeat the process. If you take your time and don't overbear or overdo the process. And use belts that are not worn out. As worn belts cause more heat than non worn belts. You will not overheat or ruin your edge. Also once sharpened. Use a honing steel or ceramic rod to keep the edge up instead of sharpening every time the knife starts to dull. That way you can keep sharpening down to once or twice every year or two depending on how much you use it. Proper use of the Ken Onion Worksharp will not overheat and ruin the temper. And I will debate that with Larrin himself who has a PH.D in metallurgy. And who I respect very much. And have read his book. But I disagree even with him on this one completely. And I am sure other Metallurgists and knife makers disagree as well.
I sharpened and also re beveled 5 various kitchen knives for my Godmother. And used the steps I described here and in my first post. I then smacked the piss out of each one 5 times on a hard plastic cutting board and some chicken bones. (Except for my thin Asian chef knife) No chipping occurred. Not even on a very small level. I cannot afford a thermal imaging microscope. But I feel like my test is more than adequate for real world use. Not to mention I saved over $70 on the cost of a professional sharpener.

Where is this test on CATRA you mention? And I want to see the tests and proof on the Ken Onion Worksharp specifically with good condition belts and proper use. Because I have looked for it on both Youtube and internet articles. If the KOWS had these issues of ruining knives. It would be well known by now and there would be a ton of 1 star complaints, horrible posts with proof left on BladeForums, and discontinuation of a product.
Nothing has came up on CATRA listings or internet searches on overheating and chipping blades from KOWS. Except for full sized Bench grinders. And I have yet to overheat a knife on my KOWS or see my edge degrade and chip.

The Worksharp is not some overpowered beast like a full size bench grinder lol. Hell custom knife makers use paper wheels on a bench grinder for final sharpening and polish. Would that not generate heat and cause chips and blade failure? Yeah go tell the professional custom knife makers like Ken Onion and Jay Fisher they don't know how to sharpen their knives lol or know anything about the characteristics of steel lol. They properly use such machinery which avoids overheating of the edge and edge chipping.

I challenge anyone on this forum to try my method of sharpening by properly using the Ken Onion Worksharp and doing one or 2 medium to fast passes then letting blade cool for a minute or if in a rush trying my method of dunking the blade in a bucket of cold water followed by a quick towel wiping of the blade to remove excess water after each 1 or 2 passes on both sides and repeat until you are finished. Then smack your knife on a cutting board for 5 whacks. Followed by wiping the blade edge to remove any wood or debris where you struck the cutting board. And don't use a high Rockwell Asian style kitchen knife for chopping to prove me wrong as they are not designed to chop with being too thin in the edge and body. And have a Rockwell over 63 which makes them hold an edge longer but reduces toughness which can cause chipping when used in an improper manner.

Also another reason some knives improve in durability after sharpening is because companies like Spyderco and Cold Steel tend to overheat their blades during machine sharpening as they are mass produced and not sharpened with much care into overheating. Which leaves a weak chip prone edge on top of chip prone steel such as VG10. After a sharpening on my KOWS chipping no longer existed on my Endura. Which is one reason out of a few why I see these companies as overrated and refuse to own or buy any more of their products after buying a $95 Endura 4 that chipped from slicing a quarter inch thick soft wood branch new out of the box. My Hogue EX-02 was machine sharpened at the factory and I have used it hard without re sharpening yet. But guess what. No micro chipping, edge rolling, or deformation.

Not trying to be a dick or claim to know everything. But until you or anyone else proves me and thousands of KOWS users wrong. I am not buying anything anyone says against the KOWS. I own and have used the KOWS first hand and the results rival that of my factory edge on my Hogue EX-02.
And nether are the thousands of positive 4 and 5 star reviews on numerous sites that sell the KOWS wrong, lying, or fabricated. That fact alone speaks volumes on the reliability and good piece of machinery the KOWS is.

I have not found one review saying my KOWS overheated my edge and caused my knife to chip. I am pretty sure some of the reviewers have metallurgy or knife making and steel knowledge backgrounds. Of course improper use could result in issues. But that is unlikely. I even know 2 professional sharpeners in my area who sometimes use the KOWS to re bevel a knife. Or to sharpen customers knives. And not one customer has complained about edge chipping or retention issues.
You, Larrin, nor anyone are converting me until I see conclusive proof. And it had better be with the KOWS specifically and under proper use with good condition belts.

Quite frankly I am bored of this subject and those who feel need to purposely shit on a product, company, and custom knife maker Ken Onion. Who developed a good product to help people sharpen knives. And deserves far more respect than he or Worksharp is receiving from some like yourself. All because some do not understand how to properly use the product or some non existent CATRA testing or he said she said gossip on the KOWS. I also repeat that once you sharpen your knife you can keep the edge with a steel or ceramic honing rod to eliminate over sharpening and increase the life of your knife. There is no reason to use a KOWS or hand stone sharpening every time your edge begins to dull.

Do as you wish and convert whoever you can. But I am firmly in the Ken Onion Worksharp camp and I am not being swayed without conclusive proof.

Nothing personal. But this will be my last post on this subject and OP's thread as I find it disrespectful to smear a proven company and product that has proven to be as good as hand sharpening by professionals. Reality is the KOWS is proven by thousands of reviews and customers who use this product and follow directions. And that alone is all the proof I need.

Done with this discussion. And I apologize to the OP for hijacking his thread and the long rant. I have spoken my peace entirely too much on this subject.
Thanks for sharing your views and thoughts. Even if I disagree. Wishing you and everyone here a good week ahead. :thumbsup:
 
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I'm quite happy I purchased and will continue to use my WSKOBGA on my knives. I've seen no discernable difference in performance since I started using it instead of hand sharpening. It works for me, it saves me time and that's what I care about. Just thought I'd add that.
 
777 Edge said:
The fact that belt sharpening is bad for edge longevity due to overheating has already been proven time and time again. CATRA testing has proven the fact. Larrin Thomas has a good article on the subject.

That's exactly the reason why most knife edges improve in durability after a few times sharpening on a whetstone.

The edge is infinitely thin to get it as sharp as possible and the friction of a dry belt (even if slow) is enough to bring the temperature to well above tempering temperature in a matter of milliseconds. You'll never feel it happening because it's happening at the very edge of the edge. Belt grinding with constant water flow is another story altogether, that won't affect the edge.

Not saying there is no place for dry belt sharpening, it's still the quickest and easiest way to save time and money and any large scale knife producer would be crazy to hand sharpen every knife they sell but the facts don't lie - it's not good for your edge holding longevity.
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That's what I was talking about. But it sure would be cool to actually see it happening. I was hoping that someone actually filmed it.
 
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