Wusthof Knife Henckels Steel

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rablerowser

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Nov 22, 2003
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I recently purchased a Zwilling J. A. Henckels 10" sharpening steel. I purchased it to sharpen my Wusthof knives. Being that Henckels and Wusthof uses different steels for their knives, is it going to be a problem using this sharpener? My knives are worth too much to damage knowingly. Should I go and purchase a Wusthof steel? How is the Wusthof ceramic wheel sharpeners? It would seem much easier to use.
Any comments? rablerowser
 
Did you get a normal steel or the diamond coated steel?

If its just the normal steel then you have a maintenance steel and not a sharpening steel.

The steels are not produced by Henckels and Wusthof themselves. In fact its likely that their steels are produced by the same factory. So using the different brands is not a big deal.

The ceramic wheel sharpener from Wusthof is not all that effective in my opinion.
 
A steel is a steel and they operate more by restoring or straightening the edge rather than the ceramic or diamond which are abrasive and create a new edge. My Henckels knives I usually just use a steel. If you decide to use diamond get a fine grit and go lightly, bearing down heavily with diamond removes lots of steel. Learn to use a steel properly and never use a power driven sharpener.
 
I have ribbed steels from Henckels and Boker and they are both good, work with any knife (well, maybe not serrated knives), The Boker is a bit rougher.

I don´t see a need for a diamond steel on kitchen knives, a ceramic steel maybe, if you get diamond use it gently, pushing hard may damage the steel and doesn´t help in sharpening.

I recommend using the search function and checking the posts by Cliff Stamp and Jeff Clark, also see the sharpening FAQ´s (follow the TUTORIALS/FAQ´s link on the top of the page).
 
(A steel is a steel and they operate more by restoring or straightening the edge rather than the ceramic or diamond which are abrasive and create a new edge. My Henckels knives I usually just use a steel. If you decide to use diamond get a fine grit and go lightly, bearing down heavily with diamond removes lots of steel. Learn to use a steel properly and never use a power driven sharpener.)Posted by mete

I agree--the more ribbed the steel the more it will take off the edge to re-true it.
F. dick company around for may years and IMHO has excellent non-diamond steels out there. Very fine so you don't remove lots of metal.
F.Dick 12" Dickoron Micro Steel, Super Fine Cut, Oval

http://www.knives-and-cutlery.com/store/d-mart.cgi?command=list&search=fdshp

I found eze lap to have the best diamond steels and diamond stones out there

http://www.eze-lap.com/product/roundds.htm


LOL
Paul
 
For those cheaper knives with the soft stainless steel, I would prefer to use a heavily grooved steel which will act as a file. This assumes that you are using your knives rather heavily as those types of blades do tends to get banged around a bit and thus the edge readily gets rolled and dented and needs an aggressive steel to fix it. If you are much more precise in your kitchen work and on a semi-regular basis sharpen the knives with a hone then you would be better off with a smooth steel.

Those little ceramic wheels which you draw the knife through don't in general work very well and while better than nothing are easily surpasses by a cheap set of crock sticks, the Sharpmaker is the upscale version of this system. But for kitchen sharpening just pick up a cheap set with fine rods which you can find all over the place. You may need to reprofile the edge when you first get it however if the factory angle is too high.

-Cliff
 
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