How To Yanagiba & Bevels

[a/zzej]

Hi there I am a amateur knife maker and I got a request to make a Sushi/Sashimi knife for a friend (plus I owe them one) and I decided to give it a crack.

My problem is since im only an amateur my knowledge on how to make knives in general is limited which means doing something more specialised like this is confusing plus my tools are really basic (Angle grinder, 50x686mm sanding belt that ive clamped down to my brick wall, vice, files, MAP gas torch because I dont even have a forge which im planning to build oh and a broken toaster oven for tempering)

My question to the more experienced knife makers is thoughts, just give me your thoughts but mainly I need help figuring out how to make the damn bevel with the tools I have

Cheers
Ya lovable local aussie

(Pic attached is the blank ive made so far)

 

[Langadune]

Welcome to the Forums. First knife I made was primarily by draw filing. You can get a pretty darn crisp bevel with a file.

 

[a/zzej]

Welcome to the Forums. First knife I made was primarily by draw filing. You can get a pretty darn crisp bevel with a file.

Cheers mate. Ive made bevels wtih just a file before but ive always noticed its a bit "lumpy" down to the edge if you get what I mean and from what I know chisel bevels have to be flat(?) which is putting off the idea of using a file to make the bevel this time

 

[Langadune]

Did you file or draw file?

If you use the draw file technique, especially with a jig, I think you'll get very nice bevels... then clean them up with sandpaper, using a hard backing.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The tang will need to be re-shaped to take a wa handle. You can get a lot of info from some of my old yanagi-ba threads. I'll pull a few up and link them here.

Her is a good one:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/yanagi-ba-bbq-wip.916522/

and another:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/yanagiba-geometry.1464945/

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I was looking at your image, and wonder what the measurements are. I think you might do better to make a sujihiki or gyuto from you blade cutout.

This is a great guide for names and sizes of Japanese kitchen blades.
http://www.zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/usetype/all/index.shtml

 

[Tenebr0s]

A proper yanagiba really needs to have a shallow concave back (urasuki). With your current tooling, you would probably be better off doing a double bevel blade like a sujihiki, as Stacy recommends.

EDIT: If you're hell-bent on doing a yanagiba, Artisan Supplies, in Australia, does sell both radius platens and (much cheaper) radiused sanding blocks. With some clamping and ingenuity, you could run a split belt over a sanding block attached to your platen. I do this on my 4x36 grinder. I recommend the 36" radius. The radius will get very hot. I run a coolant mist over mine.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

I was looking at your image, and wonder what the measurements are. I think you might do better to make a sujihiki or gyuto from you blade cutout.

This is a great guide for names and sizes of Japanese kitchen blades.
http://www.zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/usetype/all/index.shtml

I agree with this, It looks a bit tall for the blade style you have mentioned. With the piece of steel you have in the pics, A full flat 50/50 Grind all the way to the spine Gyuto/Chef knife would work best IMO.

Also find out if the customer wants a Wa or a Euro Scale handle. The Santoku and other more traditional Japanese style's I make have Euro Scale handles because that what many of my Customers want. I have the customer put their hand on a piece of paper and trace the outside. That way I have a paw print of each customers hands to make my handle by in size.

When it comes to making a handle for a Chef/Cook,
there can be lots of size diff, if its a 5'2" lady or a 6'4" Man.

 

[a/zzej]

Did you file or draw file?

If you use the draw file technique, especially with a jig, I think you'll get very nice bevels... then clean them up with sandpaper, using a hard backing.

Both, I have tried both methods before draw file does produce a more smoother surface than a normal filing technique however it still has a little bit of bumpyness for some reason (maybe cause I would take breaks and when I get back I would be a few degrees off) but I might try draw filing it again all in 1 sitting to see if I can get it

The tang will need to be re-shaped to take a wa handle. You can get a lot of info from some of my old yanagi-ba threads. I'll pull a few up and link them here.

Her is a good one:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/yanagi-ba-bbq-wip.916522/

and another:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/yanagiba-geometry.1464945/

Thanks ill have a quick read though mind you im still new to this and still learning basic terms and if I need to apply them like distal's and stuff. For the Tang I was planning on shaping it and making it much thinner the picture was just a progress report for the main profile. As far as blade measurements go Ill put up a picture of the design I drew for this knife

A proper yanagiba really needs to have a shallow concave back (urasuki). With your current tooling, you would probably be better off doing a double bevel blade like a sujihiki, as Stacy recommends.

EDIT: If you're hell-bent on doing a yanagiba, Artisan Supplies, in Australia, does sell both radius platens and (much cheaper) radiused sanding blocks. With some clamping and ingenuity, you could run a split belt over a sanding block attached to your platen. I do this on my 4x36 grinder. I recommend the 36" radius. The radius will get very hot. I run a coolant mist over mine.

I might get a radiused sanding block since I dont know what is or how to do a split beltcause I just imagine running the blade horrizontally at the wheel. Oh yea ive ruined a knife before because I didnt dip it enough in water and grinding an edge Profane Content Removed it

I agree with this, It looks a bit tall for the blade style you have mentioned. With the piece of steel you have in the pics, A full flat 50/50 Grind all the way to the spine Gyuto/Chef knife would work best IMO.

Also find out if the customer wants a Wa or a Euro Scale handle. The Santoku and other more traditional Japanese style's I make have Euro Scale handles because that what many of my Customers want. I have the customer put their hand on a piece of paper and trace the outside. That way I have a paw print of each customers hands to make my handle by in size.

When it comes to making a handle for a Chef/Cook,
there can be lots of size diff, if its a 5'2" lady or a 6'4" Man.

All they said was make me a sushi knife and I owe them one so im gonna try with the small amount of tools I have