Anyone one who punches tip ends

[paneraica]

Do yours come out straight and even?

Like 3/10 comes even on both sides for me. I check the spacing on both sides and after I punch it. One side is longer on the edge and other further up and uneven.

I have to sit there with a blade and slice the other side to even it out so it doesn't look lopsided.

Some leather I can leave an impression in the leather and adjust the punch. Some textured leathers I can't and have to rely on eyeing the spacing on either side

Even built a tool with a fixed side piece and adjustable left piece to make sure the punch is straight. Problem is. Punch width is imperial and strap width is metric, so tool isn't of much use.

Anyone have a good method or just eye balling it?

Thanks

DON

 

[Horsewright]

I eyeball it. I've had lots of practice, LOTS! I still use a roundknife now and then to true one up.

 

[paneraica]

Thanks. On smooth leathers I can leave an impression and adjust, but I also have leathers with certain textures which you can't see when you press on them

Should have punched this one from the back side. Smooth liner

 

[7stitches]

O thick leather, I sometimes hammer the punch hard enough to break through the other side. I'm very careful aligning my punches so that the front and back sides are even. Before stitching, I use an inverse punch on the back side. I never use punches that make large holes, but prefer to use a stitching awl if the holes are a bit tight. That's a lot of work, but the results are much better.

 

[lukusamongus]

I use a stitching wheel to roll marks for the holes. Then use a very small drill bit in a dremel and drill the holes. The drill bit is about the same size as the needles I use, so probably 1/32". I hold the sheath in one hand and the dremel in the other, line it up and drill by eyeball. They come out neat and aligned very nicely. I have tried punching, but that wasn't nearly as clean or straight.

 

[wgrs]

I make articles with some larger sized punched holes, mostly copies of 1880s straight gun rig belts and modern competition “shooting slings” for high power target shooters. Following is my methods. WARNING: The following is long… I welcome any questions or comments.

Strap Holes: Best way for me to lay it out is to use a saddler’s dividers and a stainless steel 15” ruler. I punch the holes with a #8 CS Osborne oval punch. (Some of the sling customers want round holes that have a tight fit on the metal double sling hooks.) I measure the width of the strap and even it up if it has variations, then take 1/2 of the width of the strap. This is the hole line. Start with the desired strap/ belt length. Start with the MIDDLE buckle tongue hole. (Most belts have a 1 Inch hole spacing, 5 holes total) Lay out the starting ( middle) hole, even the ruler up width-wise then get the next hole spacing on the opposite end from the middle hole. Use one of the ends of the oval punch as the starting point, and remember which end you are using. Lay out all your holes in this way. DO NOT PUNCH THE LEATHER AT THIS TIME. With one of the dividers points on the STARTING “dimple” , walk the dividers along the ruler to get the spacing and location set. (Again, remember which end of the oval you are using). With the oval punch, hold it in the hand and impress the oval along the length and width of the strap, using the dimples as locators. When all are laid out to your satisfaction, take 4”x4” piece of oak or maple, finish the ends smooth on a belt sander, and lay the leather across the smoothed end.( I use a cut-off scrap from a oak stair bannister about 12” long) Check the punch location again, then punch the needed holes. Use a rawhide mallet and try to punch clean through with one blow. Use only an individual punch on both oval and round holes. This is not a job for the plier type punch.
It takes a lot less time to do 5 or 6 straps/belts/slings than it took to write this, and the measurements can be repeated for several straps.

Stitching methods:
I saddle stitch everything by hand. I use two needles, one each on each thread end. Lots of beeswax on the thread. Maximum thread length is about 24 inches, leaving 12 inches front, 12 inches back. I use a #10 Sharps sewing needle with the point rounded off. Big short eye, works well for me. Best way for me is:

I use a 9 stitches per inch Osborne “ponce wheel” (AKA stitch layout wheel) I found on Ebay. First, locate starting hole about 1/8” from edge of article, about the same from the top (this can vary. If using a rivet, allow for it.) Using a vintage saddler’s divider, (also Ebay source, $5.00 plus shipping if memory serves) locate the stitch line on
the front side. Turn over and repeat on the back. Lay out the front stitches, then try fit the front and back together. On the back piece using the wheel, lay out location of the rear stitches. Hold the sides together and make sure the impressions line up, front and back.

Put piece(s) together in your sewing clamp. If you don’t have one, this would be a wise investment. Using a diamond awl, make the first hole making sure both layout impressions line up. Be sure you have the diamond flat at a 90 degree to the work. (See the “Stol..n” book on saddle stitching from “Ta..y.”Good illustrations).

Now, the following is a tip an old 80 year old saddler showed me. I’ve never seen it recommended or illustrated anywhere, but it works. Cut a 6” or so piece of Soft yellow spruce ( Spruce has a very porous sap channel structure and is soft but sturdy) about 1”x1” square. Make sure the end grain is very soft. Leave the ends rough. Use this to back up the stitch holes as you punch them. Using a felt tip marker line on the awl handle to show the proper orientation of the awl when you use it to punch through the leather. Make sure the awl enters the wood backer piece. Pull straight out. ( Remember: You can twist the awl SLIGHTLY, but you cannot EVER bend it. It has a glass-hard temper and will snap in two. The soft wood end grain will not dull the awl to any extent. I have been using this method for 40+ years with good results.

Stitching books not withstanding, I find I can get good results punching about 5-6 holes, then stitching with both needles drawing tight on each stitch. I have done 20-30 inches per hour, but arthritis is making its appearance these days. It goes pretty fast if there are no interruptions.

I welcome any questions or comments. I try to learn something useful every day, even if it is I am wrong about something!

 

[Horsewright]

I make articles with some larger sized punched holes, mostly copies of 1880s straight gun rig belts and modern competition “shooting slings” for high power target shooters. Following is my methods. WARNING: The following is long… I welcome any questions or comments.

Strap Holes: Best way for me to lay it out is to use a saddler’s dividers and a stainless steel 15” ruler. I punch the holes with a #8 CS Osborne oval punch. (Some of the sling customers want round holes that have a tight fit on the metal double sling hooks.) I measure the width of the strap and even it up if it has variations, then take 1/2 of the width of the strap. This is the hole line. Start with the desired strap/ belt length. Start with the MIDDLE buckle tongue hole. (Most belts have a 1 Inch hole spacing, 5 holes total) Lay out the starting ( middle) hole, even the ruler up width-wise then get the next hole spacing on the opposite end from the middle hole. Use one of the ends of the oval punch as the starting point, and remember which end you are using. Lay out all your holes in this way. DO NOT PUNCH THE LEATHER AT THIS TIME. With one of the dividers points on the STARTING “dimple” , walk the dividers along the ruler to get the spacing and location set. (Again, remember which end of the oval you are using). With the oval punch, hold it in the hand and impress the oval along the length and width of the strap, using the dimples as locators. When all are laid out to your satisfaction, take 4”x4” piece of oak or maple, finish the ends smooth on a belt sander, and lay the leather across the smoothed end.( I use a cut-off scrap from a oak stair bannister about 12” long) Check the punch location again, then punch the needed holes. Use a rawhide mallet and try to punch clean through with one blow. Use only an individual punch on both oval and round holes. This is not a job for the plier type punch.
It takes a lot less time to do 5 or 6 straps/belts/slings than it took to write this, and the measurements can be repeated for several straps.

Stitching methods:
I saddle stitch everything by hand. I use two needles, one each on each thread end. Lots of beeswax on the thread. Maximum thread length is about 24 inches, leaving 12 inches front, 12 inches back. I use a #10 Sharps sewing needle with the point rounded off. Big short eye, works well for me. Best way for me is:

I use a 9 stitches per inch Osborne “ponce wheel” (AKA stitch layout wheel) I found on Ebay. First, locate starting hole about 1/8” from edge of article, about the same from the top (this can vary. If using a rivet, allow for it.) Using a vintage saddler’s divider, (also Ebay source, $5.00 plus shipping if memory serves) locate the stitch line on
the front side. Turn over and repeat on the back. Lay out the front stitches, then try fit the front and back together. On the back piece using the wheel, lay out location of the rear stitches. Hold the sides together and make sure the impressions line up, front and back.

Put piece(s) together in your sewing clamp. If you don’t have one, this would be a wise investment. Using a diamond awl, make the first hole making sure both layout impressions line up. Be sure you have the diamond flat at a 90 degree to the work. (See the “Stol..n” book on saddle stitching from “Ta..y.”Good illustrations).

Now, the following is a tip an old 80 year old saddler showed me. I’ve never seen it recommended or illustrated anywhere, but it works. Cut a 6” or so piece of Soft yellow spruce ( Spruce has a very porous sap channel structure and is soft but sturdy) about 1”x1” square. Make sure the end grain is very soft. Leave the ends rough. Use this to back up the stitch holes as you punch them. Using a felt tip marker line on the awl handle to show the proper orientation of the awl when you use it to punch through the leather. Make sure the awl enters the wood backer piece. Pull straight out. ( Remember: You can twist the awl SLIGHTLY, but you cannot EVER bend it. It has a glass-hard temper and will snap in two. The soft wood end grain will not dull the awl to any extent. I have been using this method for 40+ years with good results.

Stitching books not withstanding, I find I can get good results punching about 5-6 holes, then stitching with both needles drawing tight on each stitch. I have done 20-30 inches per hour, but arthritis is making its appearance these days. It goes pretty fast if there are no interruptions.

I welcome any questions or comments. I try to learn something useful every day, even if it is I am wrong about something!

Welcome here. I have heard that old trick with the spruce before. I've never done it though. I did teach an old saddle maker a lil trick and its kind of a cool deal for any hand stitching. But ya don't here it much. He was handsewing a sheepskin liner to a breast collar to give the horse a lil padding. He was cussing it as some of the wool fibers were coming through the holes with the thread to the front side. I told him to grab a piece of brown paper bag and burnish the wax on his thread. He did and instant change. No more fibers coming through. He said he'd started apprenticing in a saddle shop when a side of leather was 25 cents! He'd never heard that trick before. He was sold. He asked me where i learned that trick and I told him out of a book. I don't remember what one though. On the very rare occasion when I hand sew anything I try to remember that trick. It just really reduces the friction of bringing that thread back and forth. Also cuts down on any wax buildup some of the holes might have. Again welcome here to Sheaths and Such. Please post some pics we'd all like to see some work.

 

[eveled]

Are you talking about the drain hole at the tip of the sheath? I’ve always used a spent .22 shell and a hammer, after the sheath is finished

 

[Horsewright]

I think the OP was originally talking about strap end punches or as they are sometimes called English points or spear point punches. Such as on a belt tip:

Or these curb straps:

They are tricky to get straight and even.

However there sure has been some good general leather working tips written about in this thread.