You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Naniwa 12000 loads up fast
- Thread starter tommytman
- Start date
UncleBoots
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2020
- Messages
- 496
A normal answer would be to do that with a worn-out diamond plate (worn-out so it doesn't make ridges in your fine grit stone).
But it should not be the case that you are taking off that kind of metal on the finishing stone in a razor honing sequence. It's a sign that you need to do more work on the stones before you switch to the finishing stone.
If you are early in your honing career, it is extremely likely that you didn't get the bevel properly set with your ~1K starting stone before moving on. I say that because everyone does that, until they are forced to learn not to.
But it should not be the case that you are taking off that kind of metal on the finishing stone in a razor honing sequence. It's a sign that you need to do more work on the stones before you switch to the finishing stone.
If you are early in your honing career, it is extremely likely that you didn't get the bevel properly set with your ~1K starting stone before moving on. I say that because everyone does that, until they are forced to learn not to.
It could be. I’m certainly new to stones. I was trying to refine some edges on some razors I have. It looks like I’ll need to get more than a 12000. Maybe a 1000, 3000, and 8000. And a flattening stone. I took a cut out of the 12000 by accident so I’ll have to fix that.
I used that 12000 again to hone a new Barbarossa and it works well, hits the bevels perfectly as observed with magnification. But the stone still turns black quickly.
I used that 12000 again to hone a new Barbarossa and it works well, hits the bevels perfectly as observed with magnification. But the stone still turns black quickly.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 7,639
Judging by how my naniwa 10k acts, they do darken fast, but if you have enough water happening, it shouldn't start to feel sticky. Keep lots of water going and see how that makes a difference. Also keep in mind that with these high grit water stones you will need to learn the feeling of just surface tension of the water, and the viscosity of any additives (if you are adding a drop of soap or anything) because you can feel that way more with a razor than you can a normal blade.
Are you keeping the blade 90deg to the stone, or are you doing any toe or heel leading strokes, straight or X strokes? How hollow is the razor and how tall (can the space in the hollow be full of water just by surface tension, does the hollow stay dry)?
Are you keeping the blade 90deg to the stone, or are you doing any toe or heel leading strokes, straight or X strokes? How hollow is the razor and how tall (can the space in the hollow be full of water just by surface tension, does the hollow stay dry)?
Thanks for that reply. I was working on a vintage close to wedge Joseph Allen Sheffield razor. I assumed that the prior owner had honed it well, I was wrong. The prior honer had used 3 layers of tape on the spine and the bevels were not uniform. I should have checked this first. Since I am still awaiting my lower grit stones I ended up using the spyderco triangles(diamond to ultra fine) to establish the bevels. Now it’s better but not perfect yet.
For the other razors I have that are already having set bevels I usually simply go up and down the stone, sometimes heel leading sometimes toe leading sometimes X stroke.
For the other razors I have that are already having set bevels I usually simply go up and down the stone, sometimes heel leading sometimes toe leading sometimes X stroke.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 7,639
Sounds like you are generally on the right track then, a near wedge will suck down on such a smooth stone, so I'll be that was playing a factor in how much resistance you were feeling. As for the triangles, I'll bet!