Sharpening your traditionals?

I use the Lansky guided angle clamp to sharpen my knives, but I'm starting to see the limitations of the system and I'm starting to look at other options. I also use the Lansky crock sticks for quick touch-ups.
 
I only use and sharpen traditional knives. Carbon and low alloyed tool steels.
I've no experience with guided systems. I don't think it's practical or even possible to sharpen the narrow blades of traditional knives at the angle i like, between 10 and 12.5 degrees with such systems.

Whatever your choice, guided or freehand, you need:

A low grit (up to 1000) to set the bevels, restore a very dulled edge or repair major damages.
A finer grit (from 2000 to 5000) to remove the burrs you will get with the coarse stone, to refine the edge and maintain it.

For some tasks, like whittling wood, a keen edge is a pleasure to use. For that you have to use very fine grits (8000 and upon). Stones this grits can also be used to maintain edges without excessive wear when a strop isn't enough for that task.

I sharpen freehand since fifty years, straight razors, knives, axes. I'm not an expert, just a good average or an average good sharpener in my good days, but there's one thing i'm sure of. Never use strength when sharpening, no excessive pressure on the blade. If you use the right grit the stone will do the job. This way it will be easier to keep a constant sharpening angle. Enjoy.

Dan.
 
Ceramic rod and Knives Plus strop til I can’t pop the sharpness back up, then DMTs for a fresh edge.

Coffee cups or ceramic plate bottoms in a pinch. They work better than you think.
 
+1 on the DMT diafold. Just right for smaller traditional blades. The diamonds aren’t necessary for basic steels on most traditionals, but I’m spoiled by the efficiency of diamonds.

The extra handle you get when unfolded helps me to hold the stone at the angle and keep the edge almost perpendicular to the stone for more consistency.
 
I’ve been mostly using guided systems for my modern knives and traditional knives with large enough blades. I like being able to at least set the edge to a known value, but after that I usually maintain it with strops and higher grit (2000 usually) stones to just keep that edge alive for a long time.

For smaller blades I have always done those by hand, usually using diamond stones starting at 300 grit, and then working up to 2000 to finish before a set of strops with emulsion.

I like the therapy of sharpening though, both free hand and fixed angle, so I tend to enjoy the process.

Been very much enjoying this Worksharp Professional Precision Adjust system, though it doesn’t come stock with the stones to finish as high as I usually do. It still gets a VERY nice edge without a lot of effort being needed, which is nice. I have more expensive systems and sets of stones, but this one is easy to set up, use and then be done with in a short amount of time, and easy for someone who might be new to these systems to pick up and learn on if they wanted.

IMG_5500.jpeg
 
I'm a pretty old guy so I've tried almost everything over the years. I freehand sharpened for years, using a Carborundum stone or Arkansas stones. When I discovered the guided rod systems I picked up a Lansky system, then a Lansky diamond stone system, and finally a KME system. They all worked fairly well, except on tiny blades. Not long ago I bought a WorkSharp Elite belt system. I've used it on kitchen knives, sheath knives, and traditional and modern knives on steels from 1095 to CPM Magnacut. There was a learning curve where I practiced on mostly cheaper kitchen knives. I moved on to the knives I carry and use every day with good results. I always finish up on a loaded strop.
I didn't put the Halfrich on the WorkSharp. I'm not that confident yet.
cBS4zaB.jpg

I did use the WorkSharp on the Boker BFF. The tip wasn't sharp enough for me so I put a fresh edge on the blade and now have a nice hair-popping sharp blade with a sharp point. The Ohta was sharpened on the KME guided rod system to a very sharp edge. I maintain them all with a charged strop.
1aSNlpT.jpg
 
I use many methods. Hapstone fixed angle is what I have been using but and I am now going back to freehand on Japanese Ceramics.

Once it is sharpened I maintain with a couple swipes on a hard leather strop with Gunny Juice.
 
I used a set of Japanese water stones for years to put edges on knives, axes, chisels, plane irons, etc. They worked very well, but took some time to do it right. A few years ago I got a Ken Onion Work Sharp, with the blade grinding attachment. I use that for really dull stuff, and for sharpening the blades on the lawn tractor, axes, etc.

But mostly, I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker for my knives, and it does a good job.
 
I use a yellow Belgium water stone that is app 6000-8000 grit.
I do it free hand but have a 20 degree block on the ricasso to se the angle
 
I was very fortunate to receive some guidance from a fellow member who had purchased several of the higher end systems. He recommended the KME sharpening system. After practicing on a few "trash knives", I finally got the hang of it! It seems to be more than good enough. Just be sure to get the pen blade jaws for traditionals. It's pretty easy to set the edge angle to your liking. You can always freehand it from there! Hope this helps. 👍🏻
1000020161.jpg
1000018625.jpg
Pen jaws for the smaller stuff:
1000021034.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top