Recommendation? Sheath for fällkniven tk1

S

Snus

Joined
Apr 7, 2024
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Hello. I was gifted a fällkniven tk1 with à leathersheath. It is the new version with desert ironwood handle. Fällkniven does not have a zytelsheath that fits well and I have heard that kydex may scratch the handle.

I would be very grateful for some advice since I am planning to use the knife for hunting and would like to avoid blood in the leather sheath.

Best wishes
 
I routinely take the factory leather sheaths apart (those that are worth keeping -- often I will use the original as a pattern and make a better one out of heavier leather) and work in a couple coats of SnowSeal inside and out, then restitch with waxed nylon thread. That seals the leather to prevent it from absorbing moisture that would cause rust, and also stiffens the leather slightly (SnowSeal is basically beeswax). But as noted, wipe your blade clean before re-sheathing it.
 
Alberta Ed said:
I routinely take the factory leather sheaths apart (those that are worth keeping -- often I will use the original as a pattern and make a better one out of heavier leather) and work in a couple coats of SnowSeal inside and out, then restitch with waxed nylon thread. That seals the leather to prevent it from absorbing moisture that would cause rust, and also stiffens the leather slightly (SnowSeal is basically beeswax). But as noted, wipe your blade clean before re-sheathing it.
Click to expand...

I fear snoseal is using less and less beeswax in their product these days. I've used it for years and I've seen the consistency get thinner and thinner with each restock. Still good stuff but as with everything it isn't what it used to be.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
I fear snoseal is using less and less beeswax in their product these days. I've used it for years and I've seen the consistency get thinner and thinner with each restock. Still good stuff but as with everything it isn't what it used to be.
Click to expand...
Has anybody tried melting Snoseal and adding some melted beeswax? Should work.
 
Alberta Ed said:
I routinely take the factory leather sheaths apart (those that are worth keeping -- often I will use the original as a pattern and make a better one out of heavier leather) and work in a couple coats of SnowSeal inside and out, then restitch with waxed nylon thread. That seals the leather to prevent it from absorbing moisture that would cause rust, and also stiffens the leather slightly (SnowSeal is basically beeswax). But as noted, wipe your blade clean before re-sheathing it.
Click to expand...
I will probably do the lazy man's version. I will stuff a beeswaxcloth inside the sheath.
I won't forget about wiping, promise.

Best wishes.
 
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