Sierra Commander

Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
5
What? You never heard of the Sierra Commander?

On January 16 I contacted Nick to open a discussion about the potential of having a knife made. I had seen his knives on this forum which I found while researching makers on the internet in planning for the knife I had in mind. I settled on Nick because I not only liked the appearance of his work, but I was encouraged by the positive comments returned by the owners of his knives.

So the preliminaries began, and continued up to the point that Nick needed to take some time away from knife making for a while. He had indicated interest in the design . . . still being developed at that point, and asked if he could get back in touch with me when he was again able to be available.

Nick kept his word and got back to me on April 10th. A few more interchanges and I finalized the drawing of the new knife. A few design cues were taken from the Sierra Scout, however I wanted a knife that was more 'commanding' so I named it the 'Sierra Commander'. Seemed like a natural.

To avoid the possibility that the details of my drawing were not sufficient, I made a wooden mock-up demonstrating the basics of the knife I could see in my head. Then I sent the final drawing, the mock-up, and a pair of beautiful Arizona desert ironwood handle scales to Nick. And last Thursday, my friendly FedEx driver delivered the completed knife that Nick translated into steel and wood.

Here are a few details:

BLADE: length 8"; width 1.75 inches; thickness ~0.200 at the butt and tapering; material O-1 on the original

HANDLE: length 5"; scale thickness ~0.375 including optional spacers; material Arizona desert ironwood on the original

WEIGHT: 11.5 ounces

SierraCmdr10-adj2LR.jpg


SierraCmdr01-adj2LR.jpg


SierraCmdr18-adj2LR.jpg


SierraCmdr16-adj2LR.jpg


SierraCmdr13-adjLR.jpg


SierraCmdr04-adjLR.jpg


SierraCmdr06-adjLR.jpg


SierraCmdr20-adj2LR.jpg


SierraCmdr15-adj2LR.jpg


SierraCmdr14-adj2LR.jpg


Nick and I have discussed, reviewed, and debriefed this first Sierra Commander and he has officially added it to his line of offerings, so he can answer any questions about pricing and options if you're interested.

I ordered the original without a sheath as I intend to make one (or possibly two). That may be a while as I am in the middle of painting my house between rainy days right now, but I will post images when I complete that phase of the project.

A couple designer comments:

1. The original was designed to serve as a general purpose camp knife, applicable to any related chores, including cooking, kindling, dressing/skinning/quartering game. It was also designed to serve possible duty as a survival knife - shelter building, etc. To address the more strenuous requirements of hacking/chopping that may be encountered in survival conditions, the original blade was spec'd as 0.250 thickness because of the added heft it would provide.

Nick has run a lot of knives through his shop and has a good feel for what works and what doesn't. Based on that, he elected to decrease the spec'd thickness to improve the balance characteristics of the knife and decreasing the potential of fatigue in extended use. My feeling about that change is . . . he was correct. The knife as completed balances dead level with the blade laid flat over my extended index finger, just ahead of and touching the front of the handle scale. With a heavier blade there would be considerably more point heavy weight bias.

However, pick your own desired application requirements for your own knife. If you need to chop limbs or hack points onto poles, a heavier blade thickness will reduce fatigue for those operations . . . but might compromise handling characteristics for other tasks somewhat.

2. Consider choosing a dense/heavy handle material for the same reason. Desert ironwood as used on the original is more than twice as dense as water . . . it sinks like a rock! It costs more than most woods, but it's also beautiful in pieces like shown on the original. In any case, I'm sure Nick would be more than happy to provide great advice on handle material options that will contribute to proper balance for a big blade like this one.

That's it for the debut of the Sierra Commander. Let me know any thoughts you have, and kudos to Nick for another great 'blade'!

Muffcook
 
Last edited:
That is one nice knife, Muffcook! And you've provided articulate thoughts on the design and construction to boot :thumbup: I must say, I'm almost as impressed with the wooden mock-up as with the knife :p:D This knife looks like it'll do well in a camp knife role. The general design of the Sierra models lends itself well to food prep, and this one looks like it'd do well in processing meat. The model is also long enough to handle splitting kindling.

Is there any particular reason behind the modification of the typical NWA bird beak at the butt?

Welcome to Bladeforums and NWA knives. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the nice comments.

Re. the change in handle shape, I spent a long time going through the details of the design in my head before it was finalized. I had several reasons why I settled on the handle shape. I do like the bird beak on shorter knives (see image below), however, it makes the handle, and therefore also the knife 3/8-1/2" longer, and this knife is already 13" long. Additionally, I wanted the length of the blade to be visually accentuated, and the forward slanted butt and shorter handle both serve to emphasize the length of the blade. Finally, I wanted the thong hole on the bottom of the butt. Note that I had also to consider the impact of a design that made the handle shorter because of the already mentioned balance issues.

The images below are of a hunter/skinner I had made nearly 30 years ago by Harold Corby of Johnson City, TN. Blade on it is 154CM and is only 3 5/8" long. His original design had a somewhat different handle shape, but I drew up and requested this one and he then adopted it. Note also on the top view that since the short, hollow ground blade is much lighter, the tang needed to be tapered toward the butt to maintain proper balance.

Corby1-1.jpg


Corby3.jpg


This knife has 'modified' the factory configuration of several blacktail deer and innumerable rainbow trout!

I see you are from the Bay Area. I grew up in Sunnyvale before moving to the northwest when my father was transferred.

Best,
Muffcook
 
Thank you, Muffcook, for such a thorough explanation. I had thought about jokingly suggesting that you need a dedicated skinner from Nick as your next NWA knife, but it seems you've already filled that niche quite nicely. Your Corby piece is another great looking blade, and it looks well suited to the task for which it was designed. Although, I suppose, you could always get a Nick Allen skinner for... variety :D. The carfeul thought process underlying your design(s) is well complemented by Nick's skill in making flawless cutlery and his experience as a knifemaker. Your Corby skinner and Nick's hunter/skinners seem, to me, good examples of convergent evolution in the knife world; it suggests that your respective experience as hunters probably agrees. Anyway, the Commander looks to be the product of a good match between customer and knifemaker :thumbup: "Good job!" to both of you.

Do you have any experience with O1? Seeing as you had that skinner made 30years ago, and consciously in 154CM, it is likely you already know that O1 requires a little more vigilance on the corrosion front. Since you grew up in Sunnyvale, you've undoubtedly been out and about in the coastal redwoods before, so you know how wet and humid it can get out here. In my Sierra Scout's pre-patina youth, I could easily find a little bit of rust on the blade afer an all day hike. Oh, and I'm currently living next door to Sunnyvale, in Mountain View. Nice, mellow, area.
 
HikingMano:
I have an aunt in Mt. View. I used to ride my bike over to see her when I lived in S'vale!

With the exception of a couple of knives that belonged to my grandfather, the Sierra Commander is my first venture into 'non-stainless' for outdoor working knives. I made the choice consciously because of the different characteristics . . . great edge holding/easier sharpening, etc, and I knew going in that I would need to add a bit more care. However, I still need to learn how to handle that task properly.

I have used Boeshield T-9 on other rustable items for a while and Nick indicated it would work well on O-1 or other similar formulations. However, there seems to be a bit of a disconnect when having a custom knife made from a high-performance 'retro' steel, then deciding to carry a spray can of protectant designed by an aerospace mfr into the woods to keep it from rusting!

I figure it can't be too complex and I can learn a routine that works.

BTW, my son's name is Russell.

muffcook
 
Last edited:
O1 definitely takes a nice sharp edge and holds it well. But I swear, sometimes it rusts if I give it a wrong look.

Since this knife is going to see a lot of food prep and perhaps butchering, I personally would opt for the simple Mineral Oil route. It's all I use on my knives. Cheap, available in any corner drugstore, does the job, and is safe to use on a knife that'll be cutting things you'll be eating. Before I forced a patina on my Scout, I would wash, dry, and wipe it down with Mineral Oil before storage. On camping trips, I'll just bring along a little baggie with a mineral oil soaked cloth or a small cloth and a small bottle of oil. I just make sure to wash, dry, and wipe down the knife before retiring it for the night.

Ever since I accelerated the patina on my Scout (via acetic acid), I haven't had a problem with rust, unless some grit in the sheath scratches some patina off. Sometimes, if I'm worried, I'll still give it a wipe down with mineral oil, but in general, maintenance is more laid back now.

I wonder if your son finds it weird when people spell his name with one "L". I don't know how people think "Russel" looks more natural than "Russell"... :D

Have a good one Muffcook, enjoy your new blade :thumbup: I look forward to more pics!
 
Nick made me a "compact kukuri" last year based on my drawings and a full sized kukuri for comparison. I made a post with pictures on this forum. It's amazing to see the finished product and Nick never disapoints! Great design and enjoy your new NWA knife!
 
Redleg72: Thanks for the comments. I would certainly agree that Nick certainly does his part in supplying a good knife. The only part we need to do is pick one that fits our needs!

HikingMano:
The little bottle of mineral oil for field use is a great idea. I usually have some around because I use it on cutting boards in the kitchen, etc. And I also have a couple of tiny bottles.

I may stick with the Boeshield for when I have the knife in storage. It is easy to use (spray on a light coat, smooth it out with a swipe of the finger, let the solvents evaporate, and it leaves a waxy coating that is really a good seal) Boeing developed it or use on aircraft components.

T.
 
Yeah, for long-term storage at home, that T9 stuff sounds pretty good. I like that it offers long term protection. Renaissance Wax is another good option you might look into, down the line.
 
great work from both of you :thumbup:
nick, if you take this to your portfolio, please let me know.
and, to give it a more military touch, maybe try micarta handles.

cheers
Arne
 
Thanks for letting me make you this one Muffcook!

While at work I can not view the pics:( But I already know what it looks like :)

This is one fine design and I am honered you contacted me to make it!

I do plan on making more Arne so if ya need one just let me know

Thanks again
Nick
 
Muffcook said:
BLADE: length 8"; width 1.75 inches; thickness ~0.200 at the butt and tapering; material O-1 on the original

HANDLE: length 5"; scale thickness ~0.375 including optional spacers; material Arizona desert ironwood on the original

WEIGHT: 11.5 ounces

Wow, just woooow! Holy sweetness! (just subscribed to this thread)

Kudos to both designer and maker on the design execution. It's always a thing of beauty when that happens :thumbup:

From what I understand, the idea of a "camp knife" came about from the early days of the Hudson Bay company with voyageurs, frotiersmen and adventurous settlers. I can honestly say THIS this would've been a great all-around tool for them.
 
That's a really great design, and that wooden model you made is cool! the knife looks beautiful, large but still balanced. Awesome job Nick :thumbup:
 
Yeah, that big blade looks awesome! :thumbup:

Hope to get a bigger NWA in the future, too! :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top