What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Mostly finished with the vise, now time to get back to work on my wife's knife. Will use the vise in the raw for a while, in case some revisions are needed. Then throw on a coat of paint, or maybe heat it up, and brush on some linseed oil/graphite.
lk6Ngue.jpeg
 
ak650 said:
Mostly finished with the vise, now time to get back to work on my wife's knife. Will use the vise in the raw for a while, in case some revisions are needed. Then throw on a coat of paint, or maybe heat it up, and brush on some linseed oil/graphite.
lk6Ngue.jpeg
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Beautiful vice.
Is that black layer the knife lays on leather?
If so, be careful that no lose grit gets in there.
The smooth side of leather can be mildly abrasivecas well.
Whatever I clamp a blade to I have a layer of tape of paper inbetween.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Beautiful vice.
Is that black layer the knife lays on leather?
If so, be careful that no lose grit gets in there.
The smooth side of leather can be mildly abrasivecas well.
Whatever I clamp a blade to I have a layer of tape of paper inbetween.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Sure is a pleasure to use. I was afraid with just one set screw on each axis, it would be a little wobbly, but it's rock solid. The black layers are neoprene rubber. I've been wiping it down whenever flipping the blade, and so far haven't seen it cause any scratching. But I can see where that could happen, good point!
 
Lorien said:
yeah, that ironwood is gorgeous- supplied by the patron. Although composites are superior in almost every way to wood for knife handles, they aren't superior in every way!
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I love natural kiln dried woods for the balance they offer but usually only on stick tangs where a little movement isn't noticeable. Saying that, I totally get why most makers avoid them but damn that balance is lovely.

I will never not be gobsmacked by how impressively you guys shape your handles!
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
I love natural kiln dried woods for the balance they offer but usually only on stick tangs where a little movement isn't noticeable. Saying that, I totally get why most makers avoid them but damn that balance is lovely.

I will never not be gobsmacked by how impressively you guys shape your handles!
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Thank you so much! My multiple personalities appreciate the shout out also!
 
A few shots of one of the projects I took to the Harrisonburg show. It is a 1/10th scale wakizashi with hardened blade. The two-piece fitted tsuka is carved from ebony and I carved the ito wrap and other featured isn't it.
The tsuba is carved out of silver. The habaki is copper. Mekugi is silver. It fits up tight. Some of these shots were while shaping the parts and they are shinier and smoother once finished. Also, the great magnification makes some parts look rougher than they are. I fixed the bump of flashing metal on the mekugi after all was finished. Camera angle on the first shot makes the tsuka look fatter than it is. It is nearly the same width as the blade, as you can see in a later shot.
Balde ha is 1.8" long. Blade OAL is 2.4" by .025" thick by .015" high. Finished length is right at 3.0". I made an ebony kake for it. It sold along with a 3" rapier I made withing 5 minutes of the show opening. Both went for $100 each. mini wak finished.jpgmini wak habaki and tsuba.jpgmini wak parts.jpgmini wak tsuka.jpgmini wakizashi.jpgmini wak tsuka.jpg
 
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