Will this 1095 steel give me a good hamon?

When it comes to brine quenching, I can't help you, simply because I've not tried it.

Any steel that produces a nice hamon requires water/fast oil. Will 1095 or C130 harden properly on vegetable oil? not really. They may harden to some extent but not fully.
 
Well, thank you so much for your help so far, im gonna do some more research on it and make my decision based on that, see ya bro
 
No worries, it's my pleasure to help. If you ever need help regarding these steels , do not hesitate to email me(my email can be found on my signature) any questions.
 
You really aren't going to find much info by Google searches on steels like C130. The best info on such steels is going to be found on knife making websites across the world like this one (Shop Talk), or knifesteelnerds.com, but I don't recall C130 specifically being discussed on that site. Messerforum.net is one to try in German.

As far as user performance goes, you'd be hard pressed to tell real world differences between the 3 steels listed.

As far as hamon goes, the lower the Mn the better, the lower the Cr the better. Here in the USA, one of the best steels, if not the best steel, for hamon is the W2 (0.2Mn and 0.1Cr) from New Jersey Steel Baron. They also started carrying White # 1 in forging thicknesses as well. Both would be my choices, but I realize that doesn't help you much in Croatia.

If you're after the best hamon you can get, I will 100% suggest you forget about vegetable oils. Fast oils like Parks 50 can make really nice hamons, but the "BEST" are indeed with water or brine quenches.

But clay application technique, how thick the clay is, what clay is being used, the geometry of the blade, the chosen hardening temp, soak times, prior steel condition going into hardening, chosen quench medium, and probably a couple handful of other variables......these are all going to play a much bigger role in the quality of hamon than the choice between the 3 steels listed (1095 probably being the worst of the 3 with the higher Mn count, as I understand that higher Mn has a stronger influence on hamon than higher Cr....the lower the better).
 
To pick up where Stu left off...
Yaki-ire is a skill that requires practice.

Get 48" of steel and make six identical small tanto (or other) style blades. After grinding to 400 grit, clay coat and quench them one at time. Temper and clean up every one regardless of whether it is cracked or not. This will show you the hamon.

If doing a brine quench, EXPECT to crack or break in half most of them. By the time you have done all six .... one at a time .... you will start to have an idea of where the hamon will end up and how to quench. From there it may be a couple dozen ... or a couple hundred .... blades before they come out prefect. Even after many successes you will occasionally have a cracked blade. Warps are part of the game, and you will learn to deal with them at quench time and in temper. I suggest reading my threads on Yaki-ire, hamon, and making a pair of Japanese straightening boards (everyone will love them).
 
Eurotechni responed withing 1 minute, saying they need to check the certificate of their W2 for correct info about Mn and Cr content, they asked what size, i replied, and now its been 24hours and they havent replied ahahahha
 
24 hours and not test data yet ... imaging that!
I remember when you wrote a letter and they got it next week, then someone had to look up the specs in a file cabinet, and send an inter-office note to customer service, which wrote you a letter back with the answer. If you got it in two weeks, it was lightning fast. A month was more common.
 
It was not met to be rude. I was pointing out that today people want instant replies.
24 hours may not be enough if the person who has to look it up is in another part of the world and not at work when you ask.
 
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