14c28n heat treatment

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Nov 26, 2021
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Hello everyone, I'm in to knifemaking since a few years and I mostley use O1. Recently I bought some 14c28n and I have some doubts about the heat treat. On sandvik page they say that the hardening temp is 1922F but do I ramp it to that temperature or I put it in the oven at that temperature? Thanks a lot! Bye
 
This is a post from a thread I did several years ago. I think it's still mostly valid

I’ll attempt to present some information on Sandvik’s alloys that are most recommended on the Sandvik site for knife blades. 12C27 and 14C28 (sometimes shown as 12C28N) are the only two I have used and I have been impressed with these. Most all this info is paraphrased from the Sandvik website, with some from personal observations and discussion with John Foster, a Sandvik technical engineer. Below is the chemical composition of 4 popular alloys. Remember, per Sandvik website: “The most important thing to remember is that hardness and corrosion resistance are related to the composition of the matrix after hardening, not the nominal chemical composition of the steel. “

Sandvik AlloyCarbon %Silicon %Manganese %Phosphorus %Sulfur %Chromium %Nitrogen %
12C270.60.40.4N/AN/A13.5N/A
12C27M0.520.40.6N/AN/A14.5N/A
13C260.680.400.60N/AN/A12.9N/A
14C28N0.620.20.60.0250.010140.11

Sandvik 12C27 is Sandvik’s old standby for knife steel, and has been in use for almost 50 years. It is the main steel used for knives. The current 12C27 alloy is much different and MUCH improved compared to the 1960’s era alloy due to the carbide microstructure which allows a very sharp and tough blade. While 12C27 has been Sandvik’s recommended steel for knives in the past, a new alloy 14C28 is the new alloy and I expect will become the recommended steel alloy since it has better corrosion resistance and a tad more hardness with the same toughness as 12C27. I find it interesting Sandvik chose to keep the same 12C27 designation for the steel rather than a different designation for the improved alloy. I was not able to find the chemical composition for the 1960's 12C27 alloy, so I'm not sure if the change is due to composition change, or better control of the process with modern technology.

The small size of the primary carbides gives Sandvik a decent microstructure. The maximum carbide size of Sandvik steels is 2 microns, with the average size being 0.5 microns. Per Sandvik, this is even smaller than some of the Powder steels. Take a look at this webpage for a good discussion of Sandvik’s microstructure: (link broken)

In depth single piece heat treating information is provided on the Sandvik website for each of the alloys in 3 different types: no freezing, home deep freeze at -5º, and cyro-freezing at -95º, only leave piece in cold long enough to reach listed temperature. The heating soak time is the same for all alloys listed above, with only time for center of piece to stabilize at required temperature. Soak time is 5 minutes for 0.100” thick, 6 minute for 0.118, ranging up to 12 minutes for a 0.157” blade. The Quench should be as rapid as possible with maximum time is for piece to drop to 1100Fº in less than 2 minutes. This allows a profiled blade to be beveled before heat quenching and still have the edge properly hardened.

temperatures for single piece heat treating:
Method12C2712C27M13C2614C28N
No Freezing1975ºF1975ºF1940ºF1920ºF
-5º Freeze1995ºF1995ºFN/A1940ºF
-95º Freeze1995ºFN/A1995ºF1975ºF

Freezing requires only time for material to reach desired temperature – I usually leave in freezer for an hour, bring to room temperature, then to tempering oven for 2 hours. Per the John Foster (Sandvik technical engineer) there is no advantage to tempering multiple times. (edit Jan, 2022) I think now it's been shown 2 tempering cycles are desired.

Comparing the table above to Sandvik datasheets, and different places on the website, I found a range of temperatures for the same alloy. From examining the table above the temperature difference for 12C27 and 12C27M is within the accuracy range of most ovens. John Foster said the temperatures in Sandvik's "Hardening Programs" section of website are the most current, that is where the temperatures listed in table above are from.

Below are tempering temperatures and resulting Rockwell hardness expected. The blades I’ve heat treated conform very close to published results.

12C27 single piece tempering temperatures:
Temper TempNo Freeze-5ºF Freeze-95ºF Freeze
345ºF596061
435ºF575859
660ºF545656

14C28N single piece tempering temperatures:
Temper TempNo Freeze-5ºF Freeze-95ºF Freeze
345ºF596062
435ºF575859
660ºF555657

From the tables above you might think 12C27 and 14C28N were almost the same, and they are - except Sandvik says the newer 14C28N has better corrosion resistance and should be a bit tougher making for a better blade.

[edited to add Aug 4th, 2014] From a VERY good authority, paraphrasing a bit: "to make folder back-springs, heat treat as normal, except temper the 14C28N at 1040 for two hours. That will get about 45 Rc without a sub zero quench, 46 -47 with a sub zero quench. A sub zero is -5ºF , no need for a long soak. You can do this in your home freezer. 14C28N makes an excellent spring if tempered correctly". I'm sure 12C27 would also.

Any typos in the above are my own typos. Any changes, comments or corrections are welcome.

Ken H>
 
Hello again, some other quick questions. Should I quench it in oil? And should I use a steel foil envelope? Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
 
It's generally accepted practice to quench air hardening steels between two aluminum or steel plates. Yes use SS foil to prevent decarb.
 
It's generally accepted practice to quench air hardening steels between two aluminum or steel plates. Yes use SS foil to prevent decarb.
Thanks Keith for all your help!
I was asking about the quenching because Sandvik mentions oil quenching in their website, and since the steel has to reach 1100Fº in less than 2 minutes I thought oil would be ok... Do you see benefits from plate quenching?
Regards
 
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Yes. Clamping the blade between plates quenches very quickly, about 2 minutes to ambient. A slightly slower quench reduces the possibility of a crack. The plates help minimize warp. And you can quench your blade with the tool wrap in place. Not possible with oil.

Plus, you don't have to use oil! No mess...
 
Yes. Clamping the blade between plates quenches very quickly, about 2 minutes to ambient. A slightly slower quench reduces the possibility of a crack. The plates help minimize warp. And you can quench your blade with the tool wrap in place. Not possible with oil.

Plus, you don't have to use oil! No mess...
Got it! Thanks again!
 
This is a post from a thread I did several years ago. I think it's still mostly valid

I’ll attempt to present some information on Sandvik’s alloys that are most recommended on the Sandvik site for knife blades. 12C27 and 14C28 (sometimes shown as 12C28N) are the only two I have used and I have been impressed with these. Most all this info is paraphrased from the Sandvik website, with some from personal observations and discussion with John Foster, a Sandvik technical engineer. Below is the chemical composition of 4 popular alloys. Remember, per Sandvik website: “The most important thing to remember is that hardness and corrosion resistance are related to the composition of the matrix after hardening, not the nominal chemical composition of the steel. “

Sandvik AlloyCarbon %Silicon %Manganese %Phosphorus %Sulfur %Chromium %Nitrogen %
12C270.60.40.4N/AN/A13.5N/A
12C27M0.520.40.6N/AN/A14.5N/A
13C260.680.400.60N/AN/A12.9N/A
14C28N0.620.20.60.0250.010140.11

Sandvik 12C27 is Sandvik’s old standby for knife steel, and has been in use for almost 50 years. It is the main steel used for knives. The current 12C27 alloy is much different and MUCH improved compared to the 1960’s era alloy due to the carbide microstructure which allows a very sharp and tough blade. While 12C27 has been Sandvik’s recommended steel for knives in the past, a new alloy 14C28 is the new alloy and I expect will become the recommended steel alloy since it has better corrosion resistance and a tad more hardness with the same toughness as 12C27. I find it interesting Sandvik chose to keep the same 12C27 designation for the steel rather than a different designation for the improved alloy. I was not able to find the chemical composition for the 1960's 12C27 alloy, so I'm not sure if the change is due to composition change, or better control of the process with modern technology.

The small size of the primary carbides gives Sandvik a decent microstructure. The maximum carbide size of Sandvik steels is 2 microns, with the average size being 0.5 microns. Per Sandvik, this is even smaller than some of the Powder steels. Take a look at this webpage for a good discussion of Sandvik’s microstructure: (link broken)

In depth single piece heat treating information is provided on the Sandvik website for each of the alloys in 3 different types: no freezing, home deep freeze at -5º, and cyro-freezing at -95º, only leave piece in cold long enough to reach listed temperature. The heating soak time is the same for all alloys listed above, with only time for center of piece to stabilize at required temperature. Soak time is 5 minutes for 0.100” thick, 6 minute for 0.118, ranging up to 12 minutes for a 0.157” blade. The Quench should be as rapid as possible with maximum time is for piece to drop to 1100Fº in less than 2 minutes. This allows a profiled blade to be beveled before heat quenching and still have the edge properly hardened.

temperatures for single piece heat treating:
Method12C2712C27M13C2614C28N
No Freezing1975ºF1975ºF1940ºF1920ºF
-5º Freeze1995ºF1995ºFN/A1940ºF
-95º Freeze1995ºFN/A1995ºF1975ºF

Freezing requires only time for material to reach desired temperature – I usually leave in freezer for an hour, bring to room temperature, then to tempering oven for 2 hours. Per the John Foster (Sandvik technical engineer) there is no advantage to tempering multiple times. (edit Jan, 2022) I think now it's been shown 2 tempering cycles are desired.

Comparing the table above to Sandvik datasheets, and different places on the website, I found a range of temperatures for the same alloy. From examining the table above the temperature difference for 12C27 and 12C27M is within the accuracy range of most ovens. John Foster said the temperatures in Sandvik's "Hardening Programs" section of website are the most current, that is where the temperatures listed in table above are from.

Below are tempering temperatures and resulting Rockwell hardness expected. The blades I’ve heat treated conform very close to published results.

12C27 single piece tempering temperatures:
Temper TempNo Freeze-5ºF Freeze-95ºF Freeze
345ºF596061
435ºF575859
660ºF545656

14C28N single piece tempering temperatures:
Temper TempNo Freeze-5ºF Freeze-95ºF Freeze
345ºF596062
435ºF575859
660ºF555657

From the tables above you might think 12C27 and 14C28N were almost the same, and they are - except Sandvik says the newer 14C28N has better corrosion resistance and should be a bit tougher making for a better blade.

[edited to add Aug 4th, 2014] From a VERY good authority, paraphrasing a bit: "to make folder back-springs, heat treat as normal, except temper the 14C28N at 1040 for two hours. That will get about 45 Rc without a sub zero quench, 46 -47 with a sub zero quench. A sub zero is -5ºF , no need for a long soak. You can do this in your home freezer. 14C28N makes an excellent spring if tempered correctly". I'm sure 12C27 would also.

Any typos in the above are my own typos. Any changes, comments or corrections are welcome.

Ken H>
This is great info! Thanks for sharing.
 
Well how about that - in post #13 it looks like I gave LOTS of good info about quenching, but missed anything on tempering. Scroll down toward the bottom of page and you'll see a chart for different tempering temperatures.

Bueno, ¿qué tal eso? En la publicación número 13 parece que di MUCHA buena información sobre el temple, pero me perdí algo sobre el templado. Desplácese hacia la parte inferior de la página y verá una tabla con diferentes temperaturas de templado.

 
Bem, que tal isso - no post #13 parece que eu dei MUITAS informações boas sobre têmpera, mas perdi alguma coisa sobre têmpera. Role para baixo até o final da página e você verá um gráfico para diferentes temperaturas de revenido.

Bom, o que é isso? Na publicação número 13 parece que há muita boa informação sobre o templo, mas eu perdi algo sobre o templo. Desloque-se para a parte inferior da página e veja uma tabela com diferentes temperaturas de temperatura.

Obrigado amigo!
 
Bem, que tal isso - no post #13 parece que eu dei MUITAS informações boas sobre têmpera, mas perdi alguma coisa sobre têmpera. Role para baixo até o final da página e você verá um gráfico para diferentes temperaturas de evento.

Bom, o que é isso? Na publicação número 13 parece que há muita informação sobre o templo, mas eu perdi algo sobre o templo. Desloque-se para a parte inferior da página e veja uma tabela com diferentes temperaturas de temperatura.

O revenido da mola é o mesmo que o revenido da lâmina?
 
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De una MUY buena autoridad, parafraseando un poco: "para hacer resortes de carpeta, trate con calor como de costumbre, excepto templar el 14C28N a 1040 durante dos horas. Eso obtendrá alrededor de 45 Rc sin enfriamiento bajo cero, 46 -47 con un Enfriamiento bajo cero. Un sub cero es -5ºF, no es necesario un remojo prolongado. Puede hacerlo en el congelador de su casa. El 14C28N es un resorte excelente si se templa correctamente. Estoy seguro de que el 12C27 también lo haría.
 
De una MUY buena autoridad, parafraseando um poco: "para fazer resorts de carpeta, trate con calor como de costume, exceto templário el 14C28N a 1040 durante duas horas. Isso obterá alrededor de 45 Rc sem enfriamiento bajo cero, 46 -47 con un O aquecimento baixo é de -5ºF, não é necessário mantê-lo no freezer de sua casa.
 
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